Operation Wolf Almost there.....

robgill2008

Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
80
Reaction score
0
Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Hi again KLOVers,
I am quite proud of myself. I pulled my aux power board out and just reflowed the solder. I then got my fluke dmm and started looking at the caps...I found one that was dead. So I went to scrambling since I got rid of most of my electronic boards. But I had an old circuit out of a alarm clock radio. The board had (and the schematic confirmed) a 35v 10 micro Farad cap. I found a 25V 10 micro farad cap. I didn't know how and if it would affect the output but it's all I had handy to try.

I got the cap soldered in, and put the board back in the machine and checked the output. the -12 Volt was at somewhere around -11 volts. Not perfect but a heck of a lot better than 0 volts.

I immediately checked to make sure that negative voltage was getting to the optic board connector. When I checked from pin 1 to pin 4, I got -10.4 volts. (Pin 4 to 2 is measuring +11.53 volts.) Close enough for me to try. So I put the gun back together.

Well, the screen was registering shots. Unfortunately, the shots were only hitting in a vertical line across the top of the screen. Still it's progress. The grenades can hit different parts of the screen however both the shots and grenades seem to hit right and left despite where the gun is pointed.

The first thing I did after the success/failure was to grab my old optic board. The one I was told "needed replacing." I put it back and it behaves exactly as the board I got from jumbo_000. So it does look like I might have some spare parts. Which is fine. Better to have them and not need them!

I thought again to adjust the brightness. I cranked it up, no improvement. I put the game in test mode with dip #3 on dip strip A. I assume that you are familiar with the grid that comes up on the screen with the white/red/green/blue squares that gradually go from left to right and get darker. I started adjusting on the monitor's "Drive and Cutoff" pots for each color. Despite knowing what exactly I was doing, while looking at the test screen, I adjusted the pots for each color, and I paid special attention to the vertical lines between the color I was adjusting and the corresponding color on the screen. If I cranked a color too much the lighter gradient would start "seeping" horizontally into the next square of the same color. So my best guess was to turn them all up as high as possible but keeping the vertical lines as sharp and defined as possible. I hope you can understand what the heck I am explaining about the monitor here.

As far as the voltage to the optic board...I could see it needed to be closer to -12 volts than it currently is, which I have already found some replacements for that aux board here on KLOV.

So what do you think? Any suggestions? .
Or should I just set the son of a bitch on fire in the front yard? LOL!

Rob
 
Back
Top Bottom