Omega Race + WG V2000 B+W Vector - Huge overscan after left on a while

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Omega Race + WG V2000 B+W Vector - Huge overscan after left on a while

Last night I had my Omega Race with a WG V2000 monitor on for about 6 hours. The first 4 hours it worked fine, though had that typical "hot 1970's electronics smell" (pcb's from the boards burning off I'm sure.

At around 4 hours I walked by and noticed that the rubber band borders were now on the very edge of the screen instead of about 1/2" from them. At about 5 hours they were totally gone and the text and ships were significantly larger from the middle. A bit later they were much much larger so that the center score/remaining ship box was now filling most of the screen.

I turned it off for about 1/2 an hour and let it cool down. Turned it back on and amazingly everything fit in the screen. About an hour later it was overscanning a bit again.


The monitor has never been re-capped and nothing else done to it other than a through hoze cleaning about 3 years ago and worked fine since. This is my only B+W Vector monitor and I have only worked on color raster up to this point.

So, experts, what do you think the problem is? Caps? HV? HV Diode? Transistors or other monitor components? Or something on the main OR board itself?

I have a cap kit ready to install, so that will be the first thing to do. But if I gotta pull it out, any tips on what could be causing the huge overscan over time would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
The x-size and y-size potentiometers ( on the motherboard) are also possible culprits. My OR has similar symptoms to yours, and the HV diode didn't fix. Thought maybe I had installed the new diode incorrectly, but I played with the size pots and discovered that they were the culprits all along,
 
Your first mistake is that you left a vector monitor on for 6 hours straight.

2nd mistake is you were USING a vector monitor that had not been properly serviced prior to being used. At 30 years old, there's GOING to be problems.

Start with the cap kit. Make sure you also do the resistor modification, installing jumpers in place of the 2 large sand resistors (at R101 and R100, I believe).

If the cap kit doesn't solve the issue, than you may be looking at the HV diode next.

Be sure to reflow solder at all connectors on the the boards. Don't just add solder, suck off the solder from the old joints, and redo each joint. There's almost a guarantee that there's a cracked solder joint in there somewhere.

2010-05-09_173951_Solder_issue.jpg
 
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