omega race spinner, how do you remove it?

tron guy

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I just got one of the repro spinner boards that I want to install but the spinner is a little odd.

Maybe mine set screw is stripped but there is certainly no pattern like a hex pattern etc.

Can someone who has removed their spinner before chime in with a little insight. Should it be a hex key for removal?

If so, I will just drill this out and try to find a replacement set screw I suppose. (maybe I should just do that anyway)
 
I just got one of the repro spinner boards that I want to install but the spinner is a little odd.

Maybe mine set screw is stripped but there is certainly no pattern like a hex pattern etc.

Can someone who has removed their spinner before chime in with a little insight. Should it be a hex key for removal?

If so, I will just drill this out and try to find a replacement set screw I suppose. (maybe I should just do that anyway)

Any luck??
 
no, it turns out it wasn't necessary to remove the spinner knob
 
I had the same confusion when I did mine... And then a bit of a "duh" moment when I figured out that most of the original hardware stays, only the pot gets replaced with the new board.
 
I had the same confusion when I did mine... And then a bit of a "duh" moment when I figured out that most of the original hardware stays, only the pot gets replaced with the new board.

I made it a lot more difficult that it should be.

It is a very very easy process.
and it works awesome!
 
Uh oh. I was having same issue last night. Figured I needed a new hex set cause I was missing the correct size. I guess I should read the install instructions a little closer. Thanks guys glad I found this thread.
 
I'm curious what the diff is with this kit...bookmarked it a while ago, but haven't felt the need since the original plays fine enough fer me. Not exactly sure what the "prob" is with the original hardware.
 
My spinner works pretty good. Really have no complaints but I have read this replacement spinner is fantastic. Will update once i get it installed.
 
I'm curious what the diff is with this kit...bookmarked it a while ago, but haven't felt the need since the original plays fine enough fer me. Not exactly sure what the "prob" is with the original hardware.


I didn't actually see a direct mention of the ORDS but I'm assuming that's the subject of this thread. You can read all about it here...
http://www.biltronix.com/ords.html

For details on the advantages of the ORDS over the original analog pot, scroll down to "Performance" and "More About Omega Race".

There are still a few OR machines out there that have a working factory original digital mechanical spinner. Those games will play perfectly so long as the spinner has not worn out. Most machines have the analog pot conversion. Those games will all experience the "lost angles" problem and the "dead spot" problem. Other than that, they will play okay until the mechanical pot track/contact wears out. A worn out pot or spinner causes erratic ship behavior with respect to its angle of rotation such as large sudden jumps between angles.

Bill B.
 
Wow, just finished installing the new spinner aka ords and let me telling you it rocks. I thought my old spinner was smooth and worked well but damn, this new one is incredibly smooth. Also, you have a wealth of what to me seems like new angles. The new spinner moves in tiny increments allowing virtually any shot. Anyone with an omega race owes it to themselves to pick one of these up. Cheap and painless upgrade. Further Info is available on the link posted in the reply above mine. Any questions feel free to post.
 
So which one did you guys order the one with the pot attached to the board, or the one with the pot off the board?
 
I didn't actually see a direct mention of the ORDS but I'm assuming that's the subject of this thread. You can read all about it here...
http://www.biltronix.com/ords.html

For details on the advantages of the ORDS over the original analog pot, scroll down to "Performance" and "More About Omega Race".

There are still a few OR machines out there that have a working factory original digital mechanical spinner. Those games will play perfectly so long as the spinner has not worn out. Most machines have the analog pot conversion. Those games will all experience the "lost angles" problem and the "dead spot" problem. Other than that, they will play okay until the mechanical pot track/contact wears out. A worn out pot or spinner causes erratic ship behavior with respect to its angle of rotation such as large sudden jumps between angles.

Bill B.


So how can you tell if you have the original digital mechanical spinner, or the analogue pot conversion?
 
buy the one attached to the board....I think Bill had mentioned that almost all of the sales were with the pot attached to board.....

That's true. I've sold 50 of the standard ones for each single "remote encoder" or "special option #2" one. No complaints so far that I am aware of. Just for clarity, the "pot" on the ORDS is actually not a pot at all. It's an optical (meaning non-contacting) quadrature encoder. It's completely digital in operation.

Bill B.
 
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So how can you tell if you have the original digital mechanical spinner, or the analogue pot conversion?

The factory original digital mechanical spinner was a roughly 2" cube with a small PCB attached with the header pins on it and the data cable (7 wires) plugged directly into it. Sorry I don't have a photo. It was mounted right under the control panel spinner knob.

The pot is a little 1" round blue thingy with just two wires attached.
The wires on it lead to the A/G board (analog to gray converter).


Machines that shipped with a mech digital spinner do not have the A/G board installed. I'm just repeating everything that is posted on my webpages on this subject.
See more here...
http://www.biltronix.com/ords_installation.html

Bill B.
 
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