Omega Race PCB repair

Awesome tips. Regarding the whole battery acid damage issue, IMHO, the damage has already been done and at some point the acid will run out of the ability to do further damage then the boards are in a "steady state" of conduction. If you repair what is open or weak, it should be good. I am basing this on a couple of years' worth of experience dealing with similar battery acid damage issues on Gottlieb boards.

As long as you address the ICs that may have been damaged by battery acid infiltrating the package through the leads, you should be ok. The boards may not look the prettiest, but they will operate well and for many years. Besides, once the cabinet is closed, you do not see them but you sure are aware if they are operating properly and reliably during gameplay which to me is the most important aspect of board repair.

Bill
 
I think you are correct Bill. I see no reason why they should be thrown on the scrap pile.
I have quite a few sets on their way to me for repair now. I will do the same deal for anyone that's wants one repaired. A thread on each pcb with a detailed repair processs.
What I need is the main game pcb set plus the power supply pcb. That way I can mod the sense lines and check for correct voltages.
 
Hi Mike

Its similar to the AR mod for Atari. The holes are in the PCB already you just need to add 2 links. If you look at the power supply schematics you can see they are shown as an option.

J1 and J3..I think, will check when I get home. You can test the voltages without anything connected that way as well.
 
Not attempting to hijack this thread but since there's so much interest in the OR game, I thought I'd take the opportunity to remind OR owners that I still produce the new digital spinner module to replace the crappy analog pot system. See it at my site at this link and email me directly from there. Don't respond to me here in this thread.
http://www.biltronix.com/ords.html

Thanks, I'm out,
Bill B.
 
I agree, the ORDS is almost a required purchase for this machine, just like the LV2000 for Tempest.
 
More progress on this today. I had fitted some nice Texas instruments sockets for the Ram, I kept getting random Ram errors. I checked out the continuity between the ram and the data/address lines, the sockets were good but for some reason the IC's weren't making good contact in the sockets. I ended up pulling them all out and fitting a different type.
Still no change to the graphics problem.

I removed 2 74161's from the Vector timer section @L2 and M2, they were both dead

IMG_0926.jpg


The graphics problem is getting better!

IMG_0928.jpg


I'm going to pull the 3rd 161 now and see if that sorts the problem.
 
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I would send you my boardset ... but I really want to attempt to repair it myself first. lol Plus you are in the UK..so mailing costs and worry about possible damage or it getting lost in the mail makes me even more hesitant. Your repair logs on KLOV ...are a very valuable and much appreciated resource.

Thank you.
 
I used to have a game trading pal in London, England so I can share some thoughts per shipping. This was sent from the USA if you are wondering.
1. I sent and received probably about 40 packages in the late 90's and early 2000s and never lost a thing.
2. I did have one or two delays, but it was just UK customs checking the contents of the package as it entered the country. This delayed things at least a week.
3. Properly fill out the custom form. For my Omega Race PCB I put a description of "Circuit boards sent for repair" and a USD value of $15. Use your own judgement on the value, I figured mine was pretty bad off, but I was wrong as you saw in the other repair log.

The only box I had that fit the set had very little clearance on the sides and I used bubble wrap as packing after wrapping the board in an anti-static bag. I don't mind making what I paid public: $32.87 USD one way. Not good, but not terrible. I was pretty close to the size limit for lower shipping, anything larger would have upped the bill to $50.

I just had to see if this board that I had saved all these years was repairable...I had always thought it was and thanks to the expert repair of omegaman, I was proven right :)
 
ifkz said:
I used to have a game trading pal in London, England so I can share some thoughts per shipping. This was sent from the USA if you are wondering.
1. I sent and received probably about 40 packages in the late 90's and early 2000s and never lost a thing.
2. I did have one or two delays, but it was just UK customs checking the contents of the package as it entered the country. This delayed things at least a week.
3. Properly fill out the custom form. For my Omega Race PCB I put a description of "Circuit boards sent for repair" and a USD value of $15. Use your own judgement on the value, I figured mine was pretty bad off, but I was wrong as you saw in the other repair log.

The only box I had that fit the set had very little clearance on the sides and I used bubble wrap as packing after wrapping the board in an anti-static bag. I don't mind making what I paid public: $32.87 USD one way. Not good, but not terrible. I was pretty close to the size limit for lower shipping, anything larger would have upped the bill to $50.

I just had to see if this board that I had saved all these years was repairable...I had always thought it was and thanks to the expert repair of omegaman, I was proven right :)
Click to expand...

I just sent my boards out to Omegaman, I used fairly large box, from CA to the UK was $47, so it might be worth trying to find a smaller box if it's $15 cheaper to ship. The cheapest option the post office game me was International Priority, which is 6-10 days, that seems reasonable to me. It also includes insurance, but I put the value of the boards at $25 to avoid any customs issues, so I suspect that's the most I'd be able to claim in the event of damage/loss of the boards.
 
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