Omega race Board

donnyjj2005

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Hey i have a Omega race board...looks to be complete.... but i have no way to test it...It has both boards....havent seen this board for sale on the forums iin a while...What do these boards go for?????
 
Untested or not working: Not much at all.
Tested/Working: A whole heck of a lot.

Meaning: $10-$20 vs. $200-$250, but depends on how much acid damage exists.
 
Untested or not working: Not much at all.
Tested/Working: A whole heck of a lot.

Meaning: $10-$20 vs. $200-$250, but depends on how much acid damage exists.

I wouldn't get the guy that excited.. I've seen them in the 100 range working. I bought mine untested for 40. I need to get ROMs for it and get it checked.

This is how the rumor mill starts!!!! :(
 
Not a rumor actually. The complete game sells for less than a tested working pcb in many instances. I've watched them for years on eBay. $200-$250 for a tested working pcb is the going rate. Two untested sets sold for $80 here recently.

When the board has the dreaded acid damage there are very few with the skills and or patience to repair them correctly.

If the pcb is untested with minimal acid damage, $40-$50 would be fair. If it has bad acid damage, make a coaster out of it.
 
I've seen them in the 100 range working.

Please let me know the source of these $100 working boards. About the lowest I've seen for a guaranteed working board is $200. $250+ is more the norm.

Non-working boardsets are a dime a dozen and can be found cheap.
 
I'm hoping that the 8 bucks in parts I bought will fix my boards. But I'm trying to pick up spares just in case. I'd like to see the tested working boards for sale. I haven't seen any yet.
 
Please let me know the source of these $100 working boards. About the lowest I've seen for a guaranteed working board is $200. $250+ is more the norm.

Non-working boardsets are a dime a dozen and can be found cheap.

Someone either here or on eBay had one within the past month for around 100. I did not go after it because I did not have the cash. I can tell you though that had I only seen working boards going for 200 bucks for this game, I would not have paid the 60 to bring my cab home!
 
I'm hoping that the 8 bucks in parts I bought will fix my boards. But I'm trying to pick up spares just in case. I'd like to see the tested working boards for sale. I haven't seen any yet.

Guaranteed working boards rarely come up for sale, and when they do there's plenty of competition for them, hence the $200+ they fetch.
I did see a board go for ~$100 recently, but it was untested... the only reason it got good money was because the seller included detailed photos that showed a very clean battery area. Your typical untested OR motherboard (which is always dead) is worth $10-$20... if you've ever tried to fix one then you understand why.

Good luck with the repair Scott. If I can be of any help let me know. I think I have one extra daughtercard (tested working).
 
Hey Matt

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it just so I can play yours again :)

Anyway here are some pics of what I have to deal with. Feel free to burst my bubble if it looks worse than I think it does. I didn't think it looked bad at all. I have all 3 chips in the top corner and the resistors and diodes as well. Hopefully Digi-key will have those parts to me by the end of the week.

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Better than most. 20 pin chip for sure, 6 diodes and 5 resistors to be safe. Plus a few trace rebuilds/jumpers.

But as with any untested board, there is no guarentee that simply replacing these will bring it back to life. Possible, but probably just the first step.

But there definitely is promise.

However, it looks like more than battery leakage hit your row of 2114 rams. They all have moderate to significant rusting. That might require replacement of numerous sockets and rams, making this a much longer fix with 8 more 16 pin sockets and chips.

You also have a broken cap on the other side of the board at 3A. Probably not needed, it just smothes +5V to that row of chips.
 
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Hey Scott, you've definitely got some work to do there, but that doesn't look too bad. Looks like it didn't creep too far. Don't be afraid to scrub that area aggressively and get all that crud off. I have a little wire wheel for my dremel that I use to strip those traces down to bare copper. And, of course, you'll need to treat that entire quadrant of the board with a weak acid (vinegar) to neutralize any remnants of alkali... I'm sure you know the drill.
 
Here is phase 1. Removed the badly corroded parts, Removed all 14 2114 rams, checked all the sockets and cleaned the entire area with vinegar. I also used my dremel with a wire wheel and then rinsed the board with water.

All the traces seem to still work so that is good. Going to let it air dry for a few days then do the vinegar and water rinse again just to make sure I got it all.
 

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This may be a dumb question but, how come there are no "O" or "Q" columns on this board? It goes M, N, P, R, S.

Or is this another electronic tech's secret?
 
Here is phase 1. Removed the badly corroded parts, Removed all 14 2114 rams, checked all the sockets and cleaned the entire area with vinegar. I also used my dremel with a wire wheel and then rinsed the board with water.

All the traces seem to still work so that is good. Going to let it air dry for a few days then do the vinegar and water rinse again just to make sure I got it all.

Keep at it. I'm with the guy that says take it down to the copper. That plating layer still looks rough. I'm not sure how well anything would solder to it.

You could just reuse the holes and replace the traces with direct wires from each pin going back to their next connection points. You wouldn't be depending on the integrity of the traces in this area at all then.

It would be kind of like using the PCB as a breadboard.
 
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