*OFFICIAL* Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (from schematics)

So..............how do you guys actually OPEN one of those insanely constructed PSU's ??

the best advice is start with the shortest screws.

if you turn it more than 5 complete turns and it does not come out, it was not meant to come out yet.

this is real advice not a joke.

they are a complicated mess for sure.

Peace
Buffett
 
STILL NEVER taken apart this particular model, but I did do the one in my Red Tent last year. reflowed a ton of solder and got the games to boot up again (score) and even that was kind of stressful.
 
it's a puzzle-box, for sure.

and i ended up dremel'ing 3 or 4 of the little screws to put a notch in the top, as they simply would not come out otherwise.

i think there was a specific thread on this particular nastiness some time ago.
 
it's a puzzle-box, for sure.

and i ended up dremel'ing 3 or 4 of the little screws to put a notch in the top, as they simply would not come out otherwise.

i think there was a specific thread on this particular nastiness some time ago.

The key to getting the PSU apart is to use a properly fitting phillips head screwdriver. The screws are set with a pretty good torque from the factory, and I think they used thread locker too. If you have a properly fitting phillips bit, you can crack them free pretty easily, you just need to make sure you are using enough downward force to make sure you don't slip the screwdriver bit. If you strip the screw head, you're pretty much fucked, you'll have to dremel (illustrated above) or drill out the screw.

I've had several of these apart. They're not too tough.
 
The key to getting the PSU apart is to use a properly fitting phillips head screwdriver. The screws are set with a pretty good torque from the factory, and I think they used thread locker too. If you have a properly fitting phillips bit, you can crack them free pretty easily, you just need to make sure you are using enough downward force to make sure you don't slip the screwdriver bit. If you strip the screw head, you're pretty much fucked, you'll have to dremel (illustrated above) or drill out the screw.

I've had several of these apart. They're not too tough.

this might be true for the ones you've pulled apart, but both of the ones which i have taken apart have had several screws that had to be dremel'ed. i have plenty of phillips head screwdrivers (with big enough handles to get a good grip), and had the right size and applied plenty of downward force, and they simply wouldn't move. i never stripped a head, but applied plenty of force (and i'm not a small guy). as you mention, both of them had loctite applied to all of the machine screws. some came out OK, but a few simply wouldn't budge. quicker to dremel and replace, at least for mine. i suspect it may depend on the particular unit and how it was torqued, loctite'd, and what happened to it since. maybe the next one i pull apart will be as easy as the ones you've done (i can only hope! :)).
 
So it is not the order in which you take them out, huh?

I get the distinct feeling you guys are attempting to discourage me doing a cap-kit on one of these. (It might be working). :eek:

Daren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
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