*OFFICIAL* Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (from schematics)

mecha

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
24,330
Reaction score
7,036
Location
MKE, Wisconsin
*OFFICIAL* Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (from schematics)

Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (27 caps total)

these values were pulled from the Nintendo schematics found here: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Nintendo/Donkey_Kong_Schematics_(TKG-4).pdf

I made this cause people are directing to another thread where they didn't include original values and have outright typos in their listing and other values are completely missing. if you wish to round out the voltages with similar caps for when you order have at it, this listing is intended exclusively for showing the ORIGINAL rated values in the PP-7B power supply.

C6 330 uF / 200V
C7 330 uF / 200V
C10 1000 uF / 50V
C11 47 uF / 35V
C12 47 uF / 16V
C13 47 uF / 35V
C15 2200 uF / 10V
C16 2200 uF / 10V
C18 47 uF / 16V
C19 47 uF / 16V
C20 47 uF / 16V
C21 1000 uF / 250V
C22 10 uF / 16V
C23 100 uF / 25V
C24 10 uF / 16V
C25 10 uF / 16V
C27 3300 uF / 10V
C28 3300 uF / 10V
C30 47 uF / 16V
C31 47 uF / 16V
C32 47 uF / 16V
C33 100 uF / 25V
C34 10 uF / 16V
C35 10 uF / 16V
C36 47 uF / 16V
C37 47 uF / 16V
C38 47 uF / 16V

if I get a chance I'll make a list for the PP-7A too since it's in the same PDF.
 
I have my PP-7B cracked open and I found a mistake in the schematics.

C21 is actually a 1000 uF / 25v cap instead of 250V like the schematics show.
 
Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (27 caps total)
this listing is intended exclusively for showing the ORIGINAL rated values in the PP-7B power supply.

So I assume the "rated values" are the actual values and there were no mistakes in that document, correct?

if I get a chance I'll make a list for the PP-7A too since it's in the same PDF.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
used this cap list to make an order only to find out its wrong for my pp7b...there were no 2200uf as the list suggests...they are 3300 10v x 4
 
used this cap list to make an order only to find out its wrong for my pp7b...there were no 2200uf as the list suggests...they are 3300 10v x 4

yeah I wouldn't know dude. I had to sell all my Nintendo cabs since I made that list, so I'm not entirely sure what's inside, I just went based off Nintendo's schematics.

if there's any other discrepancies post them. which cap locations were those ones that were wrong, Fudd?
 
caps c15 & c16 in my pp7b are 3300uf @ 10v.....your list may not be wrong, there are probably several revisions..
 
caps c15 & c16 in my pp7b are 3300uf @ 10v.....your list may not be wrong, there are probably several revisions..

I was watching a Randy Fromm video about power supplies. apparently with filter caps you can go higher with the microfarads.. that's probably what those are. I'm not familiar with the inside of those at all, never opened one.

I'm going to guess it's not a big deal. worth an asterisk though I guess.
 
several of those supply's i rebuilt had 3300uf caps.

so i think it was a upgrade that may have never made into the schematics.

Peace
Buffett
 
I just had a weird out-of-body like experience... I watched both videos for Randy Fromm's electronics lessons.... I had no recollection of ever seeing them fully, but apparently I did.

so I guess I knew everything I could about electronics after all lol

the resistor part will stick this time though!

anyway, apparently with filter caps you can go a little higher with the microfarad rating. I'm guessing that's what those are to, the 2200 -> 3300 ones.
 
i have a non-functioning PP-7B, which i had just bought a replacement for some time ago. the bad one has just been sitting on a shelf in my garage since then. this weekend i decided to crack it open to see if it was anything obvious (fuse, clearly bad capacitor, etc.). i ended up dremel'ing a slot into the two screws that attach the case to the heat sink - stupid things simply wouldn't come out any other way.

anyway, i just went through the two boards and wrote down all the capacitors with their values, and then looked them up on mouser.com to see what a full order would cost. note that i would have used digikey.com, which tends to be cheaper, but they didn't have several of the values (even at higher voltages), so i stuck with mouser.

here is the list:

C2 - 10 uf, 16 V
C6 - 330 uf, 200 V
C7 - 330 uf, 200 V
C10 - 1000 uf, 50 V
C11 - 47 uf, 16 V
C12 - 47 uf, 16 V
C13 - 47 uf, 35 V
C15 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C16 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C18 - 47 uf, 16 V
C19 - 47 uf, 16 V
C20 - 47 uf, 16 V
C21 - 1000 uf, 25 V
C22 - 10 uf, 16 V
C23 - 100 uf, 25 V
C24 - 10 uf, 16 V
C27 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C28 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C30 - 47 uf, 16 V
C31 - 47 uf, 16 V
C32 - 47 uf, 16 V
C33 - 100 uf, 25 V
C34 - 10 uf, 16 V
C35 - 10 uf, 16 V
C36 - 47 uf, 16 V
C37 - 47 uf, 16 V
C38 - 47 uf, 16 V

and here it is, grouped and sorted by capacitance. each capacitor list is a link to the mouser product, and the price is there as well. i chose the low leakage option where possible and stuck with nichicon, though prices are similar for other brands.

C15, C16, C27, C28 - 3300 uf, 10 V ($2.18 each)
C10 - 1000 uf, 50 V ($1.76 each)
C21 - 1000 uf, 25 V ($1.08 each)
C6, C7 - 330 uf, 200 V ($13.13 each!)
C23, C33 - 100 uf, 25 V ($0.54 each)
C13 - 47 uf, 35 V ($0.39 each)
C11, C12, C18, C19, C20, C30, C31, C32, C36, C37, C38 - 47 uf, 16 V ($0.46 each)
C2, C22, C24, C33, C35 - 10 uf, 16 V ($0.32 each)

the big 330 uf, 200 V filter caps are really that expensive, and in addition take 13 weeks to deliver. zoiks. digikey has them, but they're also that long a lead time, and you have to order 160 of them (but when you do, they're only about $1.50 each :)).

if you add up the prices, you get about $20 without the big ones - $45 with them. shipping is usually around $7 for these small orders from mouser.

so unless you have a cheaper source of capacitors, it doesn't seem worth it at all to re-cap one of these, since you can buy one for cheaper than the cost of the caps (even if not ordering the filter caps). i guess if you want to bullet-proof it for the future it might be worth it...
 
i have a non-functioning PP-7B, which i had just bought a replacement for some time ago. the bad one has just been sitting on a shelf in my garage since then. this weekend i decided to crack it open to see if it was anything obvious (fuse, clearly bad capacitor, etc.). i ended up dremel'ing a slot into the two screws that attach the case to the heat sink - stupid things simply wouldn't come out any other way.

anyway, i just went through the two boards and wrote down all the capacitors with their values, and then looked them up on mouser.com to see what a full order would cost. note that i would have used digikey.com, which tends to be cheaper, but they didn't have several of the values (even at higher voltages), so i stuck with mouser.

here is the list:

C2 - 10 uf, 16 V
C6 - 330 uf, 200 V
C7 - 330 uf, 200 V
C10 - 1000 uf, 50 V
C11 - 47 uf, 16 V
C12 - 47 uf, 16 V
C13 - 47 uf, 35 V
C15 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C16 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C18 - 47 uf, 16 V
C19 - 47 uf, 16 V
C20 - 47 uf, 16 V
C21 - 1000 uf, 25 V
C22 - 10 uf, 16 V
C23 - 100 uf, 25 V
C24 - 10 uf, 16 V
C27 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C28 - 3300 uf, 10 V
C30 - 47 uf, 16 V
C31 - 47 uf, 16 V
C32 - 47 uf, 16 V
C33 - 100 uf, 25 V
C34 - 10 uf, 16 V
C35 - 10 uf, 16 V
C36 - 47 uf, 16 V
C37 - 47 uf, 16 V
C38 - 47 uf, 16 V

and here it is, grouped and sorted by capacitance. each capacitor list is a link to the mouser product, and the price is there as well. i chose the low leakage option where possible and stuck with nichicon, though prices are similar for other brands.

C15, C16, C27, C28 - 3300 uf, 10 V ($2.18 each)
C10 - 1000 uf, 50 V ($1.76 each)
C21 - 1000 uf, 25 V ($1.08 each)
C6, C7 - 330 uf, 200 V ($13.13 each!)
C23, C33 - 100 uf, 25 V ($0.54 each)
C13 - 47 uf, 35 V ($0.39 each)
C11, C12, C18, C19, C20, C30, C31, C32, C36, C37, C38 - 47 uf, 16 V ($0.46 each)
C2, C22, C24, C33, C35 - 10 uf, 16 V ($0.32 each)

the big 330 uf, 200 V filter caps are really that expensive, and in addition take 13 weeks to deliver. zoiks. digikey has them, but they're also that long a lead time, and you have to order 160 of them (but when you do, they're only about $1.50 each :)).

if you add up the prices, you get about $20 without the big ones - $45 with them. shipping is usually around $7 for these small orders from mouser.

so unless you have a cheaper source of capacitors, it doesn't seem worth it at all to re-cap one of these, since you can buy one for cheaper than the cost of the caps (even if not ordering the filter caps). i guess if you want to bullet-proof it for the future it might be worth it...

yeah, I unfortunately had to leave behind the only other PSU I had. so I'll never know for sure what's inside one of those first-hand. maybe one day I'll get it back, we'll see.
 
This is my list. Made it on mouser. Feel free to use it. You can buy all the caps for like $13. plus shipping. Which is usually like $5. Now i made this list from opening my original 7b and writing down all the numbers. the voltages may be a little higher but that is just to find an affordable cap. I have already recapped 1 of mine and it works fine. use at your own risk. just an fyi if one of them becomes discontinued or back ordered just search for whatever size you need and re-add it to your list. periodically they run out of stock.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=06614f6020
 
yeah, I thought those other cap prices were a little ridic. lol I buy my stuff from mouser too...
 
Nintendo PP-7B PSU cap listing (27 caps total)

these values were pulled from the Nintendo schematics found here: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Nintendo/Donkey_Kong_Schematics_(TKG-4).pdf

I made this cause people are directing to another thread where they didn't include original values and have outright typos in their listing and other values are completely missing. if you wish to round out the voltages with similar caps for when you order have at it, this listing is intended exclusively for showing the ORIGINAL rated values in the PP-7B power supply.

C6 330 uF / 200V
C7 330 uF / 200V
C10 1000 uF / 50V
C11 47 uF / 35V
C12 47 uF / 16V
C13 47 uF / 35V
C15 2200 uF / 10V
C16 2200 uF / 10V
C18 47 uF / 16V
C19 47 uF / 16V
C20 47 uF / 16V
C21 1000 uF / 250V
C22 10 uF / 16V
C23 100 uF / 25V
C24 10 uF / 16V
C25 10 uF / 16V
C27 3300 uF / 10V
C28 3300 uF / 10V
C30 47 uF / 16V
C31 47 uF / 16V
C32 47 uF / 16V
C33 100 uF / 25V
C34 10 uF / 16V
C35 10 uF / 16V
C36 47 uF / 16V
C37 47 uF / 16V
C38 47 uF / 16V

if I get a chance I'll make a list for the PP-7A too since it's in the same PDF.

So the question is has anyone used the above list as it is written with success?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island,New York.
 
I've been trying to get the definitive cap-kit list for several years, because there is so much contradiction as a result of where the values were lifted from and the differences between what is in the schematics and what is actually in the power supply.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
the list i posted above was taken from an actual power supply, not from schematics.

i have used that the mouser list to replace the caps in it successfully.
 
Back
Top Bottom