Off Topic: Sony 50" rear projection TV

[horseboy]

Pm me your e-mail for the service manual.
No need to remove the D board. Or fly just open up the purse locks.
You just loosen the cables so you can pull the chassis back.
Nothing to do with the tubes or anodes cup's.
the chassis will standup after cables are loose. Don't pull out any plugs connectors.
Don't remove the HV/convergence board,unless you want to replace it.
and you will have to remember alot of connectors to putback.
remove the Ics and ohm the fuse's any of them OPEN?
To check any of the resistor around the Ics just remove solder from one leg to check the ohms.I would just suspect the Ic's,maybe a fuse.Good Luck!

PM sent. Thanks man.

The reason I wanted to take the whole board out is because I really don't want to do any solder work while laying on the floor in my hallway. I would prefer to move the board to my bench. I already mark and removed all the connectors, so putting it back shouldn't be too bad. The only thing left connected is the flyback.

Oh, and this thing is incredibly dusty. I expected some dust, but there is at least a quarter inch layer covering the whole thing. If I could remove it I could blast it with some air to make working on it a bit easier. If there is a relatively easy way to pull this whole board I would prefer to do that. If I have to lay on the floor to work on this thing then I guess I can make it work.

 

[Ohmerone]

Ok,

Then turn the High Voltage cable 90 degree on the fly.
keep them in order.
and remove each one and focus, then disconnect the screen
voltage wire, maybe near neck board.
Clean it all you want but don't bow the board or crack the pcb.

 

[horseboy]

Ok,

Then turn the High Voltage cable 90 degree on the fly.
keep them in order.
and remove each one and focus, then disconnect the screen
voltage wire, maybe near neck board.
Clean it all you want but don't bow the board or crack the pcb.

Thanks!!. Sounds tough. Maybe I'll just solder on the floor.

 

[rikitheshadow]

Yeah, I read basically the same thing. I tried for quite some time with no luck.

Ohh, sorry. Guess this repair log had a special flyback control interface. Guy said he even broke one by mistake not realizing how his rear projection television's flyback control was designed.

Good luck on the soldering though!

 

[horseboy]

Thanks man. The soldering work is the one thing I am not worried about. I can handle solder work. The actual electronics part of this stuff.... not so much. Good thing this looks like it will be simple enough.

 

[roburt]

Just pulled the main board (with flyback) from my 5 year old Samsung 52" projection TV. Unplugged for 4 days & zero charge. Hope this will help you. FYI, if you're used to working on arcades, beware...these boards are very thin and very flexible. I was concerned about cracking the board just getting it out!

 

[chuckrcheese]

my last rear proj tv got a bad color problem, I used the yard leaf blower on it all that dust was gone and so was the color problem and my tv lasted another 8 years, the guy that got it still uses it.
Cheers

 

[roburt]

Leaf blowers are great for that! I use mine too. This one had a burning smell & then the picture vanished. It was a friend of mine that had it. Ordering a cap & diode today & it should be back up and running. Good luck with yours.

 

[horseboy]

This freaking thermal past is like some crazy top secret adhesive. I can't get the ic's off the freaking heatsinks. I am afraid I am gonna crack the board. Any tips?

 

[horseboy]

Oh, and does anybody have any tips on testing the pico fuses? They all seemed to have continuity, but then I figured out I could touch pretty much any 2 spots on the board and get a beep on the meter. That seems funky.

 

[mattosborn]

This freaking thermal past is like some crazy top secret adhesive. I can't get the ic's off the freaking heatsinks. I am afraid I am gonna crack the board. Any tips?

It's probably just all dried up. You could put a little alcohol on it (you'll need that to clean up the heatsink anyway before you apply the new fresh stuff) and that might help loosen it up. Use a razor blade to get behind the chip and pop the tension.

 

[Ohmerone]

Oh, and does anybody have any tips on testing the pico fuses? They all seemed to have continuity, but then I figured out I could touch pretty much any 2 spots on the board and get a beep on the meter. That seems funky.

You may have to hit on the top edge of the ic to break it loose with a big flat head screwdriver to get it off, after removing the crossbar holding it in and removing the solder.
They best way to test a fuse is open remove one side of the part or remove it all the way out its common to find open fuses to the ic theres about six around the ic and more in the powersupply, missing voltages to the ic can effect the way it works if just one out of 6 is open and all the others are closed. then again none of the fuse may open,and ofcoarse you should have voltage on both side's of a fuse at all times.
You may not have any open fuse's and just bad ics.it won't hurt to just replace the ics
then check picture again or voltages to the ics.
Inspect the resistor network around the ics for discolored resistors or open.
once again lifting one side to check its ohms..

 

[horseboy]

Thanks guys. I was jabbing away at the ICs with a flat head screwdriver for a while with no luck. I even tried a razorblade, but couldn't get it back there. I will keep plugging away at it.

As for the fuses... I figured I needed to desolder one side, but I figured I would see if there was a way to avoid it.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Ohmerone]

Thanks guys. I was jabbing away at the ICs with a flat head screwdriver for a while with no luck. I even tried a razorblade, but couldn't get it back there. I will keep plugging away at it.

As for the fuses... I figured I needed to desolder one side, but I figured I would see if there was a way to avoid it.

Thanks again guys.

My screwdriver maybe bigger then your's..infact its about a half an inch wide
at the tip,with a heavy tool hitting the screwdriver.
I would never use a razorblade for that job.
You may need to remove the heatsinks along with the ics,then try it again.
If not using the right desoldering temp it will be hard to remove the heatsinks.

 

[mattosborn]

If your Sony TV is anything like mine, removing that heatsink from the board would be a real bitch... and impossible with your average soldering iron.
Sorry for stating the obvious, but you have removed the bolts that clamp the chip to the heatsink first, right?
It shouldn't take a lot of force... that's why I suggested getting something thin behind the chip and giving it a twist. If it still won't budge then give your screwdriver a couple taps with a hammer. You've desoldered the chip leads already, correct?

 

[horseboy]

Yep, I have desoldered the ICs and removed the screws holding them to the heatsinks. I am sure I could remove the heatsinks, but I would have to take the whole board out. You can't get to those points from the service position. I am going to try and avoid that at all costs. I'll give the screwdriver a few taps with the hammer. I was just hesitant to do that in the first place because the board was bending like crazy when I was going at it with the screwdriver alone.

 

[SuperSprint]

I had some like that on an xbox processor. Fortunately in that case I could rotate the sink back and forth causing a shearing action. But I was sure the chip was going to demount (destructively) first. If the IC is dead, you might clip the legs and try totating the IC body.

Once I got that chip off, the heat sink residue would barely come off with a razor. Ended up going to Fry's and buying a HS compound remover that worked like a charm. Perhaps applying some would get it to let go.

 

[horseboy]

Well there is good news and bad news and I am an idiot news. The good.... got the ICs off the heatsinks. Just took a little bit more effort with the screwdriver. The bad.... I powered it up and it looks about the same as before. Now it is filling up the entire screen though. It is still getting larger the closer you get to the left and right sides. Ohmerone mentioned I shouldn't do the flash focus until I replace the chips or I might have to do a full manual convergence. My wife probably pushed that button 20 times before she let me know it was broken. I am guessing this isn't the problem though. Could still be a fuse or resistor I guess?

Now for the I am an idiot news... There is a row of 8 surface mount components (resistors?) above each of the ICs pins 12-18 on the solder side of the board. I was soldering in the right IC (IC8001) and I felt like I got a bit too close to those components with the solder. I only had a couple of hours sleep last night and wasn't thinking clearly, and before I even thought about what I was doing I took a razor blade and ran it between the IC and those components. Shit. I am guessing I had to have broken some traces or something, but I can't see where I did. Could this cause the same symptoms that I am having? Surely I can just jumper the IC pins to whatever spot they were supposed to go to right?

I can't believe I did something so stupid. I have attached a pic from the manual and one to show where I made the cut.

 

[KevinMullins]

Surely I can just jumper the IC pins to whatever spot they were supposed to go to right?

Looks like just four points....could check continuity first just to check if you actually cut them.

 

[horseboy]

When I was checking the fuses I noticed that I could touch any 2 points on the board and get a beep on the meter, so I am not sure how to check continuity more accurately.

It looks like it could be 5 points to me?