Off Road Challenge - Not powering on

milkit

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Won an off road challenge at auction, it was on during bidding. Get it back home and it will not power on.

I can hear/see the monitor power up, the power supply comes on for a split second then turns back off. The board does not look to be getting power, no LEDS light up or anything.

Unplug the jamma harness, power supply boots, stays on, etc. I checked voltage and its getting 5.05 on 5v and 9.5ish on the 12v. -5 on the -5v but I only get those voltages when I use ground port 1 or 28 on the harness. If I use port 2 or 27 there is almost no voltage at all. I do not know if thats normal as I have never paid attention to it, just thought I'd make note.

Any clues where to start? Arcade wiring knowledge fairly slim... but I am hoping I can get it working!
 
if it is a switcher type supply don't waste too much time on it an just get a new one. The supply is not putting out proper voltages especially the +12. The people who sold that game just got it working long enough for you to buy it.

I hope you didn't pay too much for that game.

send this guy a pm and see if he can send you the pdf

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1017099&postcount=7
 
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if it is a switcher type supply don't waste too much time on it an just get a new one. The supply is not putting out proper voltages especially the +12. The people who sold that game just got it working long enough for you to buy it.

I hope you didn't pay too much for that game.

send this guy a pm and see if he can send you the pdf

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1017099&postcount=7

I have a manual for it, in almost new condition. Also only paid $150 for it so not a big deal. I understand that most auction items are "working long enough to sell" but I still want to fix it :)
 
I have a manual for it, in almost new condition. Also only paid $150 for it so not a big deal. I understand that most auction items are "working long enough to sell" but I still want to fix it :)

I think that game uses a switcher type supply and they are not real expensive...I have bought a few of these and they come fairly quickly 2-3 days tops and by fed ex.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330571172387?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

You need to get good power before something bad happens and if it can it WILL. A good power supply is a good base for the testing procedures, hell that might be the problem itself.
 
I think that game uses a switcher type supply and they are not real expensive...I have bought a few of these and they come fairly quickly 2-3 days tops and by fed ex.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330571172387?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

You need to get good power before something bad happens and if it can it WILL. A good power supply is a good base for the testing procedures, hell that might be the problem itself.


understood. But, what about my power supply seems like it may be the issue? The voltage coming of it seems fine.. the 12v is never actually a true 12v is it? I thought 9-10 was normal?

and fyi, this is the power supply that is in there right now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-Power-...Arcade-8-Liner-Cherry-Master-PC-/110934668634
 
understood. But, what about my power supply seems like it may be the issue? The voltage coming of it seems fine.. the 12v is never actually a true 12v is it? I thought 9-10 was normal?

and fyi, this is the power supply that is in there right now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-Power-...Arcade-8-Liner-Cherry-Master-PC-/110934668634

That seems a bit low to me. Most are about 10.5 to 14 volts. That 9 volts will drop down to about 3 or less when there is sound present. Most of the time the +12 is for the sound amp and not much else. I have 3 supplies here that I am going to look at soon but for $23 shipped to your door in about 2 days is not bad. Most of the parts inside the switchers are hard to find and about as much as a new supply. The diode that looks like a regulator is about the same price as a new unit. Even if you can find the parts fairly cheap you have a used supply that uses pulse magic to power the transformers, that is about 40,000 cycles a sec. <I may be a bit off here> but it is still prone to fail. Switcher power supplies usually only last about 5 years and most of the Peter Chow supplies were made in 1986.

You do what you want but I feel that if this is a game you want working, Start with a new power supply and move on to the next problem.
 
Sounds like one of the +12 or +5 wires is shorting out. Check the coin door light wires to see if they were pinched when the door was closed. If you removed the seat base or dashboard from the game to transport you could have pinched one of the wires there when it got put back together.
 
That seems a bit low to me. Most are about 10.5 to 14 volts. That 9 volts will drop down to about 3 or less when there is sound present. Most of the time the +12 is for the sound amp and not much else. I have 3 supplies here that I am going to look at soon but for $23 shipped to your door in about 2 days is not bad. Most of the parts inside the switchers are hard to find and about as much as a new supply. The diode that looks like a regulator is about the same price as a new unit. Even if you can find the parts fairly cheap you have a used supply that uses pulse magic to power the transformers, that is about 40,000 cycles a sec. <I may be a bit off here> but it is still prone to fail. Switcher power supplies usually only last about 5 years and most of the Peter Chow supplies were made in 1986.

You do what you want but I feel that if this is a game you want working, Start with a new power supply and move on to the next problem.


You lost me... I wasn't saying it didnt need a power supply but simply trying to learn why. That being said, I think ya went to left field after that lol. This game is from 1997 so even if its the original power supply it wouldnt be from 1986. Its also not a peter chow, its the happ one I linked. But ya.. anyways...
 
Sounds like one of the +12 or +5 wires is shorting out. Check the coin door light wires to see if they were pinched when the door was closed. If you removed the seat base or dashboard from the game to transport you could have pinched one of the wires there when it got put back together.

thanks, Ill check that tomorrow. I retested the 12v and it was actually outputting closer to 9.8-9.9 range.

The seat was removed to move the game but it didnt have any wiring in it. This power supply was just floating down in the bottom of the cabinet though so it could have pinched something during the move. I looked it over many times but I will again!
 
well, more wire wiggling and BAM! powered right up and working perfect. Hopefully I can figure out where the short was but its working for now
 
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