NT-2515C - Time for a new flyback?

tandrews_ny

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I can get the flyback's focus bang-on. The voltage brightness however, is weird. I had it set last night perfectly. Come out this morning to show the old lady and it was dark. I was able to readjust is, but my concern is the flyback's controls are bad?

The monitor is flawless outside of this, so I'm not sure if its just the weather causing the materials to stress.

Any advice?

IF I need a new one, where can I get one for a good price?
 
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It can be caps and the flyback. Also check if the focus wire is making a solid connection and check your b+ if it keeps changing. As a rule of thumb I change flybacks on when available even if not needed.
 
if that pot on the flyback is drifting then its probably going bad so you would have to replace it.
 
if that pot on the flyback is drifting then its probably going bad so you would have to replace it.

BTW: i have about 10 models of flybacks in stock but not the neotec flybacks. i think chad at arcadecup may carry the neotec flybacks.
 
New information:

I re-adjusted the game this morning so the monitor's brightness was perfect. Come home from work, its dark again.

So, I guess I need a flyback.
 
cap kits are important on Neotecs. legend states that the caps serve as a filter for the HOT; as the caps get older, the HOT becomes more vulnerable. I've witnessed these gobble multiple HOTs when there really wasn't anything wrong with the chassis.

you also run into a lot of nonsense with adjusting the B+, and you have to manually adjust the shutdown just a hair away from where the B+ goes, otherwise, yeah, you pop the HOT.

your problem is exclusively related to the flyback. I get that Matt is pushing for caps, and I believe I made that case pretty effectively, but the flyback will need to be replaced.
 
cap kits are important on Neotecs. legend states that the caps serve as a filter for the HOT; as the caps get older, the HOT becomes more vulnerable. I've witnessed these gobble multiple HOTs when there really wasn't anything wrong with the chassis.

you also run into a lot of nonsense with adjusting the B+, and you have to manually adjust the shutdown just a hair away from where the B+ goes, otherwise, yeah, you pop the HOT.

your problem is exclusively related to the flyback. I get that Matt is pushing for caps, and I believe I made that case pretty effectively, but the flyback will need to be replaced.

They are pushing cap kits for sure, like I wouldn't do that anyway lol I'm already removing the monitor, why wouldn't I take another hour or so and just replace the caps? The monitor beautiful, I mean, crisp as hell...I think its one of my best monitors right now. The game must have no play time on it.

Bob Roberts has flybacks AND cap kits. I have heard good things about him, is it advisable to order the parts from him? I will go where ever the parts I need are.
 
They are pushing cap kits for sure, like I wouldn't do that anyway lol I'm already removing the monitor, why wouldn't I take another hour or so and just replace the caps? The monitor beautiful, I mean, crisp as hell...I think its one of my best monitors right now. The game must have no play time on it.

Bob Roberts has flybacks AND cap kits. I have heard good things about him, is it advisable to order the parts from him? I will go where ever the parts I need are.

there is a big difference in the quality of cap kits and BR has about the lowest end cap kits you can buy and he has alot of issues with bad flybacks and doesn't stand behind them. if you do some research on here you will find this out and i am sure Mecha will verify this and many others. not all cap kits are made equal.
 
Ok, so last night I adjusted it again, this time I made it so the image was slightly darker (flyback not turned up too high) but still nice and playable. It hasn't lost it yet. I am still planning to buy a new flyback, but i can atleast enjoy the game now. This goes to show you that a tick one way can change the entire issue.

I will be ordering a few cap kits and flybacks this week.
 
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