No glow on Battle Zone tube

Steverd

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So my troubled Battle Zone monitor has no neck glow.

The chassis has no make or model stick. Can you tell from these deflector and high voltage boards what they are?

The only sign of life is the LED D504 is lite, but I don't know if that's good or bad. I know I can get a generic X-O Cap kit (V2000 cap kit) from Bob Roberts. But I don't know what's in it. Or whet else I might need. Possible a new flyback? I didn't even hear it buzzing.

P299
p299.jpg
P300
p300.jpg

I need some directions on this one..
Thanks everyone.
 
I work on these but not often enough to provide you with intelligent help without documents in front of me. That appears to be a v2000 monitor. Capping may fix your issue but not likely. You need to get the black and white vector monitor faq and read through it a couple of times before you get started.

Realize of course that 50% of what is in there is for different versions of the B&W monitors. However, it is a good primer for what you are getting into. If the red LED is lit, it means you are not getting a proper signal to the deflection board from the game board. You will also need to check the transistors on the monitor frame (shiny bottle cap things) If you don't know how to do this, find somebody local to you and hopefully they can walk you through this.

Do you know for a fact that the game board is good? Bad output from a vector game board equals no picture on these games. Have you checked all the voltages on the AR board? Have you checked the Harness for a good connection to the game board? Are any pins mashed inside the connector to the game board?

I am assuming this is your first vector monitor repair. Good for you. Please read the faq and the manual for that monitor at least twice each. Get schooled on what everything is called and then come back here and we will gladly help you troubleshoot your monitor.

You can also search these forums using the advanced search function and find lots of posts on the repair of these games and their monitors. I am with ipad only and am not up to speed yet on how to jump back and forth and cut and paste stuff. I will try to find your post when I get back in town and follow your progress.
 
Thanks,

I tried the monitor hooked up to my working Asteroids.
It just seemed very dead. I'll see if I can get those transistors from Bob Roberts also. I also read that Q500; Q501; Q502; and Q503 go out fequently also.
Anyone sell a very complete repair kit for this monitor? With a bunch of Transistors, all caps, a few diodes and resistors like R104?

Thanks,
 
As Pat stated, that's a Wells-Gardner V2000 model. One big issue with this monitor is cold solder joints. I've seen some deflection boards......where all the headers are cracked. Check them and reflow as needed. Also.....unlike most monitors, this monitor's heater voltage (IE: neck glow) actually comes from the transformer assembly in the bottom of the cabinet. A dirty/broken/etc pin in any of the connectors between the transformer and the monitor could cause the voltage to not reach the monitor.

Edward
 
As Pat stated, that's a Wells-Gardner V2000 model. One big issue with this monitor is cold solder joints. I've seen some deflection boards......where all the headers are cracked. Check them and reflow as needed. Also.....unlike most monitors, this monitor's heater voltage (IE: neck glow) actually comes from the transformer assembly in the bottom of the cabinet. A dirty/broken/etc pin in any of the connectors between the transformer and the monitor could cause the voltage to not reach the monitor.
Edward

Oh no, where to I test for the power from the Transformer to the monitor?
Does anyone have a pin out for the plug that goes up there? It's a 9 or 12 pin plug, just going from the top of my mind. I'll pull the deflection board and reflow any suspicious looking joints.

Thanks
 
Looking at the schematics.....the heater wires are at locations 9 (white) and 12 (red/white), of the twelve pin connector at the monitor. If I'm not mistaken, they are then hardwired to the deflection board. It looks like #12 is tied to ground and ran out to the neck socket. #9 is paralled through a couple resistors (R102A, R102B), and then goes to the neck socket. This is an unregulated AC voltage.....I'd guess you should see somewhere between 5-8 volts.

Edward
 
Here's the V2000 manual: http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Wells Gardner 19V2000 XY B&W.pdf

The very first thing to check is the molex at J5 on the power brick. Check all the AC pins to make sure the voltages are coming out there. Looks like pin 9 is where the 6.1VAC for the monitor neck comes from. Then check P100 on the monitor to see if it's there (pins 9 & 12, it looks like). Then the headers pins on J100, and the P500/J500 connection.

It'll likely turn up somewhere in there.
 
Here's the V2000 manual: http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Wells Gardner 19V2000 XY B&W.pdf

The very first thing to check is the molex at J5 on the power brick. Check all the AC pins to make sure the voltages are coming out there. Looks like pin 9 is where the 6.1VAC for the monitor neck comes from. Then check P100 on the monitor to see if it's there (pins 9 & 12, it looks like). Then the headers pins on J100, and the P500/J500 connection.

It'll likely turn up somewhere in there.

Whoa - Thank you for that manual. It's most helpful and I did not have it..
I'll do those test tonight!
 
Whoa - Thank you for that manual. It's most helpful and I did not have it..
I'll do those test tonight!

No problem. If you want a printed copy, head over to ArcadeCRT. He's a KLOVer & all around great dude. Found a stash of NOS V2000 manuals.

I just re-read your original post, and noticed that nobody addressed the D504 LED. When that's lit, that indicates that the spot killer is active, that is to say, there is no video signal from the game, or possibly a fault in the monitor. Page 12 of the manual has more info, but if that is lit, you may have more than just a monitor problem. While you're in there, check to see if your PCB is putting out a video signal.

Keep us posted! BZ is a great game, it'll be sweet when it's running again.
 
No problem. If you want a printed copy, head over to ArcadeCRT. He's a KLOVer & all around great dude. Found a stash of NOS V2000 manuals.

I just re-read your original post, and noticed that nobody addressed the D504 LED. When that's lit, that indicates that the spot killer is active, that is to say, there is no video signal from the game, or possibly a fault in the monitor. Page 12 of the manual has more info, but if that is lit, you may have more than just a monitor problem. While you're in there, check to see if your PCB is putting out a video signal.

Keep us posted! BZ is a great game, it'll be sweet when it's running again.

Thank you - I have used Chad's help for a few Chassis over the years.
Not the cheapest, but does GREAT work! It could very well be the PCB, I'm thinking about sending it off to Talon2000.
I have a different thread on that problem.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=241654

I have tested the BZ pcb to my Asteroids monitor and I have tested my Asteroids PCB from the Asteroids cab to this BZ monitor
 
SO I just measured the values to the P100 connector going to the monitor.
The all seem way off, arghh.

Values are:
Pin 7: 9.4 vac (should be AC 30 RMS)
Pin 9: 34.6 vac (should be 6.6vac)
Pin 10: 15.4 vac (should be AC 30v RMS)
Pin 12: 21.8 vac (should be 6.6vac)

Are these coming from my Power supply J5 right?
Would you suspect a bad transformer? I know that's very Rare.
I know the Big Blue cap is good, the Bridge Rectifier doesn't seem to be in this part of the wiring. Bad fuse holders? Thought?
 
Thank you - I have used Chad's help for a few Chassis over the years.
Not the cheapest, but does GREAT work! It could very well be the PCB, I'm thinking about sending it off to Talon2000.
I have a different thread on that problem.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=241654

I have tested the BZ pcb to my Asteroids monitor and I have tested my Asteroids PCB from the Asteroids cab to this BZ monitor

Okay. So if you're starting with a working Asteroids, then connecting the BZ monitor to it and getting no neck glow and a spotkiller, this points pretty strongly to cold joints on your header pins. Unlike with a raster monitor, the power and video signal all come in on the same connector. So issues with your BZ PS have no bearing on the situation.

It's possible for the caps in the spotkiller to cause it to misbehave, but start with the easy stuff. Just reflow all those headers and see what happens.
 
SO I just measured the values to the P100 connector going to the monitor.
The all seem way off, arghh.

Values are:
Pin 7: 9.4 vac (should be AC 30 RMS)
Pin 9: 34.6 vac (should be 6.6vac)
Pin 10: 15.4 vac (should be AC 30v RMS)
Pin 12: 21.8 vac (should be 6.6vac)

These voltages are too "off".......makes me think of a couple things.....
Is your meter broke?....a low battery can give all kinds of funky readings.
How are you taking these readings? AC voltage is not measured like DC voltage, per se......If you are looking for 30VAC at pin 7.....set meter to AC, one probe goes to pin 7, the other probe goes to pin 10.....what do you have? If you are taking the readings this way, then I'd suspect your meter before the transformer.

Edward
 
These voltages are too "off".......makes me think of a couple things.....
Is your meter broke?....a low battery can give all kinds of funky readings.
How are you taking these readings? AC voltage is not measured like DC voltage, per se......If you are looking for 30VAC at pin 7.....set meter to AC, one probe goes to pin 7, the other probe goes to pin 10.....what do you have? If you are taking the readings this way, then I'd suspect your meter before the transformer.

Edward

Maybe I'm measuring wrong. Meter set on AC then,
I have the black lead in #11 Ground and then placed The Red lead in all
of the other pins to measure.
 
Maybe I'm measuring wrong. Meter set on AC then,
I have the black lead in #11 Ground and then placed The Red lead in all
of the other pins to measure.

You can't always read AC that way. There is no "common" ground in AC. You have to measure across the two poles....there is no "ground" per se. Red lead, black lead....it doesn't matter which goes where.

So, for your 30VAC.....meter set to AC volts, one lead at pin 7, the other lead at pin 10. This should yield 30VAC (give or take, it's unregulated).

Edward
 
OK, back to the cold solder joints.
Well I pulled the P299 and P300 using a 16X lens:

on the P299
ALL joints on the P500 where cracked
P600 and P701 both had two cracked joints
P700 had one cracked joint
On the D300 P900 had one cracked joint.

All the caps on the P299 test good.
BUT on the P300 both C900 and c901 should be 1000uf 50V Read:
938uf and 0.04
945uf and 0.03

Are these too far off the 1000uf? What's the odds of Radio Shack having a 1000uf cap?
 
Last edited:
All the caps on the P299 test good.
BUT on the P300 both C900 and c901 should be 1000uf 50V Read:
938uf and 0.04
945uf and 0.03

Are these too far off the 1000uf? What's the odds of Radio Shack having a 1000uf cap?

Most electrolytic caps are rated at +/- 20%.....even high end one are 10%. Your readings look fine.

Edward
 
I am so happy to report, but the monitor is ALIVE!!!!
Thank you so much EVERYONE!!

Next to the Asteroids I used for testing!
bz-5.jpg

Camera blur - the screen is sharp!
bz-6.jpg

Just need to get a new fire button now!!!
 
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