Nintendo vs screen issue

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Hi,
A couple questions. If a screen comes on does that mean it is good? And any guesses to the problem with this screen? I have not recapped it yet and wanted to make sure I ordered all the parts before I placed an order. The game does not play and has no game play sounds/images. Just this grey bar color.

Thanks for any leads,
 

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I did a recap and have new issues. The screen is now black with the game connected, but with the game disconnected the screen is mostly a solid grey. I still don't have any game sound or visual image of a game.

Does this mean that the game daughter board or the pcb is bad? Is there a way to test without damaging another game? Perhaps a voltage test on the connector?

Any suggestions?

Here are some images,

https://sites.google.com/site/sanyoez20nintendo/
 

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Here is an update. I measured the voltage coming out the power box and it reads as the schematic says it should. 12,24,5,-5 and grounds.

I did notice when removing the pcb that it looks like some of the caps have been cut. Is this normal? I am attaching pictures of the area.

I took out the IC chips to reseat them but I cannot get the daughter board out. How hard are these things stuck in there normally? It feels like it is soldered.
 

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Here is an update. I measured the voltage coming out the power box and it reads as the schematic says it should. 12,24,5,-5 and grounds.

I did notice when removing the pcb that it looks like some of the caps have been cut. Is this normal? I am attaching pictures of the area.

I took out the IC chips to reseat them but I cannot get the daughter board out. How hard are these things stuck in there normally? It feels like it is soldered.

Looks like you are missing any/all game chips and ppu on the main pcb. What game do you think this is supposed to be? The daughterboard is missing chips as well.
 
Sorry. I took the ICs out to reseat them and was trying to reseat the daughter board also to make sure that is not the issue. I have read a lot of posts telling people to reseat the boards while looking for problems. I cannot get the daughter board out.

It should be Castlevania.

Should there be any more ICs on the opposite side of the daughter board? It is for a Vs. unisystem.
 
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The instructions for the Nintendo Gun Kit were to cut the caps. You can double check the Gun Kit manual to make sure the correct caps were cut here.

arcarc

The boards are a pia sometime to get out. Do you have any spare CPUs or PPUs you could try?
 
Thanks for the link. They look like they match up to the manual link you sent. I do have a set that I picked up "untested", but I cannot get that daughter board out to try them out. It feels like I will break the board if I pull any harder. I guess I will just have to risk it at this point or buy another full game board.
 
What is the other set?

I was going to suggest that you swap the CPU and the PPU. Swap 1 at a time to see which is your problem. Depending on the PPU, you should be able to swap and may just get wrong colors.
 
I took a large screw driver and pried out that daughter board and tried the other "unknown working" set. They did not work either. The screen is just turns on grey with that set.

Pending the game pcb is not broken, should I get game play noise even if I have a monitor issue?

I guess I need to find another tested good full pcb and see if that works. I don't know what else to do at this point?

The other game is Excitebike. I don't know if swapping would work out with that one?
 
I have been messing around with it a bit more and found that the monitor will turn black even if no game is in the pcb. If I disconnect the bottom pcb connector it will light up grey, or if I disconnect the small connector to the inverter board it will light up grey.

I have also noticed that there is not +5 volts on the D4 connector. I followed the orange wire and it goes to the coin service button mounted on the coin door.

And should there be a chip in the J2 position on the pcb?

Any thoughts?
 
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It's hard time testing a cabinet with possibly problems to more components at a time...

Try isolating probs: check your monitor first (is it working?) with a 2 cents jamma working PCB (you must build up a connector for this: 5-6 solders). If it's working, go troubleshooting your PCBs; if not repair the monitor first
 
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I took a large screw driver and pried out that daughter board and tried the other "unknown working" set. They did not work either. The screen is just turns on grey with that set.

Pending the game pcb is not broken, should I get game play noise even if I have a monitor issue?

I guess I need to find another tested good full pcb and see if that works. I don't know what else to do at this point?

The other game is Excitebike. I don't know if swapping would work out with that one?

all the Vs. boards are universal. they were designed to be able to change games in and out via daughterboards and ROM swaps. the only thing you need to do is hook up a known working board to this.
 
The daughter card is not soldered in. Try using all 4 of your hands- 2 to hold the mother and 2 to work the daughter out. These can be a pain to getting in and out. Try lifting back and forth firmly a little at a time from side to side.

The 4 missing caps are a normal mod for gun games and do not affect other games.

VS boards/roms/cards can be stingy and if one pin isn't making a good connection bam...blank screen. Double check to make sure the chips aren't in reversed--the notch should match directions with the other chips.

I have had games i thought not working then after reseating etc works fine.

Good Luck
 
Turns out it was a bad main pcb. Don't know what is broken on the board, but a new board solved the issue.
 
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