mhaaland
New member
Dang Ken, did you take that list down?
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Nintendo Power Supply Cap Kit List inside if you want to rebuild those power supplies
- Thread starter barakawins
- Start date
Dang Ken, did you take that list down?
mhaaland
New member
Thank you!
i have the best cap kits on my site for the nintendo power supplies that all the caps are nichicon 105c perfect fit with case size and lead spacing and low esr 5000-10000hour caps.
vegas12
Well-known member
How do infinite out which power supply I have on my DK?
Mattspad
Well-known member
99% its a pp7b show us a picture
yup matt is correct (as always
)if you have a blue donkey kong original it should be pp-7b and the 1% (red DK) had the pp-7a. post a picture to be sure and usually there is a sticker on the side of them too.
Mattspad
Well-known member
yup matt is correct (as always
I think the sticker is where the 100v ac comes in which should be facing the coin door. Pics will help us. It could also be a new switcher ps put in there awhile ago which don't always last.
PS: this guy has good kits on his site so if you need one grab it and reflow solder while your at
vegas12
Well-known member
vegas12
Well-known member
When I just turn the DK I have no issues, but when all my games are running it glitches. One glitch is that the game screen blinks and distorts between level changes. And then if left on for hours the game play screen will distort as if the v/h hold is going out.
This is why I was looking to recap the PS
Mattspad
Well-known member
Yeah that's a PP7b and recapping it could never hurt. Are you sure your wall is equipped to run all those games because it sounds like voltage drop. Try capping it and see where you get. The hold could just be the monitor needing caps too which isn't too bad on a 20ez they're labeled well. Security has all the cap kits on his site. Be sure to get a filter cap for the sanyo too its a 470uf 160v which may be rated higher volts on his site but will work fine. I cap all my sanyo's whether they work or not and reflow any cloudy solder on both monitor and ps's.
vegas12
Well-known member
How is filter cap different than a regular cap? And thanks.
Mattspad
Well-known member
They're like 4 dollars on that monitor its the huge one near the heatsink. They're not included in cap kits but it does need to be replaced just like any other cap, I believe the reason why they dont put it in is because cost and most people dont do it. It's just as easy as any other cap so do it. The pp7b power supply cap kit has them in it and its around 25$ ( it has a few ) so you can see why I guess.
ArchNorway
Active member
Hi, sorry to blow the dust of this old thread, but I have the same question and it wasn't really anwered in this thread - or anywhere else for that matter. I have a PP-7B with 2200uf caps in C15 and C16. The print on the board says 3D-0097 which is the same as all the images I have found of PP-7Bs on the net. The original boardset is a DK TKG3.
Given the fact that my capkit came with 3300uf caps and this seems to be the standard I am a bit stumped on how I should proceed. I live in Norway, and I can't just walk out onto the street to get another power supply if I f it up. I had some input from Peter at Arcadesparesandrepair and he was very helpful (great customer service!), but I would also like to hear if any of you KLOV'ers can shed any light on this.
From what I can tell from the schematics, C15 and C16 sit in the -5V circuit, and the reason why I am recapping the psu is to get a good solid -5V as I am getting the usual glitches running TKG4 boards.
Is the 3300uf considered an upgrade? Are there revisions of the boards even though the printing on them is the same? What would you do - leave the old and most likely dry 2200ufs in there or change them to 3300ufs and see what happens?
Cheers,
Arch
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