Nintendo Monitor's...school me?

Sirius

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I'm looking for a monitor to replace the one that came in Sky Shark cab I bought awhile back. The cab had a Nintendo EZ20 monitor in which the neck was broken off. I don't believe that this is an original cab for the Sky Shark, simply because the way the bezel was hacked up and chopped off at the bottom. I kinda wonder if they didn't just throw this monitor in just to sell the game or if it even ever worked in this cab. I put my WG4600 next to it, connected it, and the game works fine...ok for $50.

So with that said, I've read that the Nintendo monitors can be a PITA, and a guy near me has one for sale with light burn in and a possibly bad fly back. The game requires negative composite sync and the inverter board on these monitors confuses me. Is that do-able for the Nintendo monitors, without major modifications? I've been looking for a vertical monitor since I got the game and I really don't want to try and stick a horizontal in and not have it fit right.

...any thoughts?
 
Most monitors can go vertical or horizontal, the EZ20 is usually in a frame that will mount either way (popeye is horizontal, donkey kong is vertical, for instance... same monitor and frame)

They are kind of awkward, if you don't have the right inverter board the video will be inverted, and the wiring is kind of weird.

Since you were able to plug it into your 4600, and the EZ20 video uses a completely different connector, I'll bet you're right, the cabinet was never wired for the EZ20. If it was, it'd have a weird video connector on it.
 
Actually it looks as if it was re-wired. Here's a pic of the connector. They put a 6 pin molex on it. I have no clue as to what the original connector looked like?
 

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I'm looking for a monitor to replace the one that came in Sky Shark cab I bought awhile back. The cab had a Nintendo EZ20 monitor in which the neck was broken off. I don't believe that this is an original cab for the Sky Shark, simply because the way the bezel was hacked up and chopped off at the bottom. I kinda wonder if they didn't just throw this monitor in just to sell the game or if it even ever worked in this cab. I put my WG4600 next to it, connected it, and the game works fine...ok for $50.

So with that said, I've read that the Nintendo monitors can be a PITA, and a guy near me has one for sale with light burn in and a possibly bad fly back. The game requires negative composite sync and the inverter board on these monitors confuses me. Is that do-able for the Nintendo monitors, without major modifications? I've been looking for a vertical monitor since I got the game and I really don't want to try and stick a horizontal in and not have it fit right.

...any thoughts?

If it's in a Nintendo cab, you need to be careful as the outlet for the monitor only puts out 100V and not 120V. So it might not be a simple swap of monitors.
 
It was a Nintendo monitor with an actual wall outlet type plug that plugged into the bottom of the cab that came from the isolation transformer. It measures at 107.5

Is that to much for the Nintendo? My 4600 seemed to work fine.
 
That's fine for the ez20, it's close enough. The monitor should just bolt right in, then since your cab was wired for one in the first place.

"Possible bad flyback" though sounds like major suck.
 
"Major Suck"...ok why? Is it a pain to replace or is it just a general suck? I have the skills to replace it. Bob Roberts quoted me $33 shipped. I figured doing a cap kit as well and possibly the HOT. I don't think that the 107.5 volts would be good for other monitors that require more, therefore staying with the EZ20 seems like the easiest thing to do. If I put in a monitor that needed 120 volts, would I need to replace the isolation transformer or could it be easily modified?
 
I suggest keeping the Sanyo as a monitor. Once you get em going they are crystal clear.

I had to do a similar mod to the video connector like you have pictured to put a Sanyo into my single monitor playcohice. (originally came with a k7000a).

If you have the skills to do so - replace the flyback., cap it. You don't need to do the HOT unless your blowing fuses. If you are, then order a VR as well. I say don't mess with it because if you forget the insulator or some other stupidness putting it in then you have created more issues for yourself. (Either the HOT works or not..). Instead of the HOT go and get a complete POT kit because the B+ Pot and the other adjustment pots are garbage and it will save you hassle.

The 107 is fine for the Sanyo. Never plug it into the wall. The iso I put into my playchoice from a DK iso is putting out 109.

--

On the other hand..... If the 4600 worked, you shouldn't need to replace the iso and since the connector was hacked up anyway, it should be easy to determine what wire is what based on the Sanyo connector so wiring it properly to the 4600 should be OK too.
 
Ok, sounds good to me. I'll give the guy a call and go from there. As for the 4600, that came out of my Roadblasters which is horizontal and needs to stay. I was just using it to check the Sky Shark board. All I did was remove the pins from the Jamma harness and plug them into the molex on the end of the 4600. It was the same molex just wired different. Thanks for the advice about the hot and pots. I will still order a hot, just in case and to have on hand. I will for sure replace the pots also. Thanks for the advice.
 
Ok, sounds good to me. I'll give the guy a call and go from there. As for the 4600, that came out of my Roadblasters which is horizontal and needs to stay. I was just using it to check the Sky Shark board. All I did was remove the pins from the Jamma harness and plug them into the molex on the end of the 4600. It was the same molex just wired different. Thanks for the advice about the hot and pots. I will still order a hot, just in case and to have on hand. I will for sure replace the pots also. Thanks for the advice.

get a VR too - When / if you blow a hot you will 95% of the time blow that too.
 
Basic Nintendo monitor information that applies to both the Sanyo and Sharp models:

Operates on 100 volts AC

Requires isolation transformer (do NOT plug this monitor into a wall outlet)

Audio amplifier is built-in

Monitor accepts only inverted video signals (fine for Nintendo games, but an inverter board is needed for any other games)

Reproduction flybacks are now available
 
Aren't the inverter boards on board? Sits on top of the fly back cage. There is "non invert out" and "invert out". Invert out is connected by ribbon cable to the main board. And the monitor was connected to the jamma harness at non invert out.
 
Some of them didn't come with them... so you might get one without the inverter board. You can wire up your old one, but you'd probably have to add the +5 wire that goes up to the board, if the monitor didn't come with the inverter board it doesn't have the wire either.
 
chances are if the flyback's bad, you might have to re-cap it too. and then do all the usual stuff that follows that.. readjusting all the brightnesses, white balance, adjust the B+ to 108.0V ... yeah, they're fun to work on lol

as previously mentioned, they look very nice when you're all done with them.
 
"chances are if the flyback's bad, you might have to re-cap it too. and then do all the usual stuff that follows that.. readjusting all the brightnesses, white balance, adjust the B+ to 108.0V ... yeah, they're fun to work on lol

as previously mentioned, they look very nice when you're all done with them. "


If only the person would get back to me. He's apparently on vacation and is supposed to be back on Tuesday (today). I was sent an email saying he would call me. I'm curious as to see how nice the Nintendo monitors look. I ordered a flyback from Bob, if it don't work out I can use the flyback in my other 20EZ with the broken neck. Just need to get a suitable donor tube. The fly back in the broken neck chassis looks a little "crispy", so I'm sure it's bad. I pulled the board off the chassis and looked at the back...OMG, some people should not be allowed to use soldering irons. Soldering caps is the most basic soldering you can do, but they still managed f it up! They somehow managed to pull up the trace on one leg and half ass soldered a stranded wire to it. I followed the trace to see where it went, and guess where? That's right...the flyback!
 
get a VR too - When / if you blow a hot you will 95% of the time blow that too.

It would seem that the "voltage regulator" "LA5112N" is becoming a rare item? Bob Roberts is sold out and says any he's found are almost as much as the monitor. Anyone know of another supplier? FYI...Twisty Wrist is also out.
 
It would seem that the "voltage regulator" "LA5112N" is becoming a rare item? Bob Roberts is sold out and says any he's found are almost as much as the monitor. Anyone know of another supplier? FYI...Twisty Wrist is also out.

Update...Twisty did have them!
 
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