Ok, you will need to wait for the Video Display Tester
or rejuvenator or CRT tester..
There are many types of leakage or shorts that could happen
with the cathodes, heaters..G1 Etc.
The Video B+ comes from the flyback and goes to all three of those
high watt resistors and off each resistor it goes to each collector and the cathodes
are the load for each drive transistor thru the large resistors.
In a sence the resistors/transistors will take current and from our point of view we will
see the high watt resistors over heat and often discolor and or increase in resistance
and even open up.. they should never be over heated to where the color codes
are missing.. they only fail because the circuit is trying to control the current thru
each cathode so if the are damaged its because the cathodes are pulling down the
Video B+ meaning that if you removed the cathodes or disconnected the pins
on the crt socket you should see the dc at the collectors depending which RK,BK,GK
you just removed the dc should jump up very close to the Video B+
Depending which cathode or two has the issue of a short of cathode to cathode
leakage it may act differently with the test.
I would hold off untill you have the VDT in front of you, thinking about the
the symptom you should notice that the green should test better then the others
unless you have a leakage between the heater and the green gun..
when that happens it is over driving the green cathode because of the H-GK
but not enough to make the green so predominant that you cant see video in it.
and should look at this first, and test the red and blue then ofcoarse Rejuv.
this way you can relate to your visual symptom.. dont just start Rejuvenating
right away, this way you can learn from what you aready know, i find it important
to relate to the symptom at all times!
You may run into heater to green cathode leakage and that the red and blue
or very weak in emission over all..
since the heater to cathode or heater to grid or cathode to cathode your
testing may be different and can understand whats going on inside the tube.
the resitors and transistors will all take the heat from the tube so it will give you
an idea where the problem is just from who's hotter then it next part..
I can tell the transistor were not shorted or the emitter resistors would have
been open or overheated because it would have put the video b+ to the emitters..
The transistors thru the whole ordeal can become leaky and still need to be changed
even if it was just the tube that was the big issue..
Odds are if you removed your RGB signal cable you would have a greenish raster.
Ofcoarse this is just my take on this repair and may vary depending what you find.
And if i'm wrong then never mind..Smile