Nintendo Marquee Light

Grey

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Ok, so I have an origional light fixture in my DK Jr. and rather than opting to replace it, I decided I would replace the starter and the bulb. Well I had found a store selling both for 15 bucks, and now the bulbs have gone out of stock
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No idea when they will be back in stock.

So my question is, does anyone know where I can purchase a bulb from? I read some older forum posts about a site called TopBulb that sold them, but I cant fix the proper bulb on thier site anymore.
 
Thanks for the quick replies. Not that I don't trust the answers here, but can anyone else confirm that the FL-10D Bulb is indeed mis-labled and is actaully 100V? I only ask, because I had heard of people getting a similar bulb but in 120V, and having it work at first, but getting a drastically shorter life-span.

www.bulbman.com has every bulb you'll ever need.

You would think, but Nintendo used odd 13.5" length bulbs at 100V. The bulb in my cab is origional and appears to be made by a Japanese Company called NEC. Same goes for the starter.

EDIT: Just double checked my bulb and it is labled as an FL10D at 10w so I am guessing that TopBulb does indeed have the correct one!
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Does anyone know the correct Starter on TopBulb? I would like to order both from the one site if they also carry them.
 
Top Bulb part numbers for each:


Neon bulb starter--part number FG-7E
Fluorescent tube (Import)--part number FL-10D

Bulb is 120V, 10Watt.

Bulbtronics sells the lamp and starter too, I've had good experience with them.
 
Top Bulb part numbers for each:


Neon bulb starter--part number FG-7E
Fluorescent tube (Import)--part number FL-10D

Bulb is 120V, 10Watt.

Alright now im confused. The FL-10D model is the same model number that is on my origional bulb, yet the one on TopBulb is 120V? When someone earlier said the TopBulb was really mis-labled and is 100V like the origional?

Putting a 120V bulb in a 100V fixture might work but I doubt its good for the bulb and it'll probably burn out fairly quick.
 
Top Bulb part numbers for each:


Neon bulb starter--part number FG-7E
Fluorescent tube (Import)--part number FL-10D

Bulb is 120V, 10Watt.

Bulbtronics sells the lamp and starter too, I've had good experience with them.

I highly highly highly recommend Bulbtronics.com. Amazingly fast shipping and a perfect product. I ordered my bulb and starter for my Mario Bros. there.
 
I would be happy using a cheap under counter fixture on my DK. Can I plug it into the 100V plug and still have it light? Is there any danger in doing so?
 
Ive replaced the original fixture with a standard 120v home depot fixture, and plugged it right into the cab outlet, It works great, never had any problems, And i had the same bulb running in it for over a year. It was still working in all of my cabs when i sold them a few weeks ago.
 
A fixture with a tube at my Home Depot is roughly 15-20 dollars. The tube and starter to put in my origional fixture are 15 dollars. So I am much happier keeping everything origional for the same price
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A fixture with a tube at my Home Depot is roughly 15-20 dollars. The tube and starter to put in my origional fixture are 15 dollars. So I am much happier keeping everything origional for the same price
smirk.gif

the 18" fixture i just put in my R-Type was $8 at either HD or Lowe's. i think the fixture that was spliced in was already a replacement (and had a bad bulb and was missing the ballast,) so it didn't bother me to replace it. i didn't have any shrink tube handy and the cord wouldn't reach the outlet on the bottom of the cab, so i used a couple of butt connectors and it seems to work just fine.
 
I have replaced all my 13.5 inch Nintendo lights with 18 inch fixtures from Menards. I have never paid more than nine bucks for one. You can tap into the 110 and 0v terminals on the side of you transformer to be legit, but plugging them into the 100v outlet works too. The reason it is better IMO to replace the old ones with an 18 incher is that it is closer to the cab width and illuminates the marquee fully and evenly. The old ones were too narrow.
 
I usually cut the power cord off the original fixture and solder it on the new fixture so it makes it long enough with no splices.
 
Mine must have been replaced at one point. My light is plugged directly into the outlet on the floor of the cabinet.

I thought that was why the outlet was there.
 
The plug on the bottom of the cab outputs 100v and is for the original light fixture and monitor.
 
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