Nintendo joystick - play sucks - suggestions?

joeycuda

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My DK Jr is FINALLY working, after being touch and go for a long time. I'd rebuilt the monitor 10yrs ago, then the flyback smoked. I replaced the flyback, new cap kit, then the sound wasn't working. Turns out is was simply one wire on the little transformer had broken off.

I added the monitor pot remote board - I highly recommend and it didn't take long to move the wires over.

I'd taken the joystick out, soaked/cleaned it with carb cleaner, and added a little oil. I know there's no debris, but it's clunky as hell, hard to move. Game is barely playable, and I don't remember the DK I had being like this. I did not install the plastic disc, although I have the clear repro.

I wouldn't think you'd want too sticky or thick of a grease, as it needs to spring back to center. However, would that be best? How about the sticky clear nyogel type stuff?
 
My DK Jr is FINALLY working, after being touch and go for a long time. I'd rebuilt the monitor 10yrs ago, then the flyback smoked. I replaced the flyback, new cap kit, then the sound wasn't working. Turns out is was simply one wire on the little transformer had broken off.

I added the monitor pot remote board - I highly recommend and it didn't take long to move the wires over.

I'd taken the joystick out, soaked/cleaned it with carb cleaner, and added a little oil. I know there's no debris, but it's clunky as hell, hard to move. Game is barely playable, and I don't remember the DK I had being like this. I did not install the plastic disc, although I have the clear repro.

I wouldn't think you'd want too sticky or thick of a grease, as it needs to spring back to center. However, would that be best? How about the sticky clear nyogel type stuff?

I use a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil on my nintendo joysticks. They play great. I'm sure a tiny dab of silicone grease would be fine also.
 
+1 for silicone grease. It's think enough to stay put, but won't slow the stick down.

For best results, you really want to disassemble the stick, and scrub and/or tumble all of the parts, as if there is any rust on any of the key parts, that can bind things up. The same goes for if any of the parts are excessively worn, so you want to inspect everything.

Most surface rust can be removed with white vinegar and a small wire brush, which you can get at most auto parts stores. (O'Reilly's sells a 3-pack with one stainless, one brass, and one nylon brush, which are great for cleaning all sorts of stuff. They're usually in the auto detailing section.)
 
I don't think lubrication is your problem. It shouldn't be clunky if you cleaned out all the crap.
 
Also, make sure you put the joystick back together properly. I cleaned one a few years ago, reassembled it, and it felt like crap (really hard to move, rather than the really sloppy feel that they usually have). It turned out that I reassembled the joystick with one of the pieces upsidedown (IIRC). It's been a while since I've had a Nintendo joystick apart, so I don't remember exactly which piece it was.

DogP
 
Also, make sure you put the joystick back together properly. I cleaned one a few years ago, reassembled it, and it felt like crap (really hard to move, rather than the really sloppy feel that they usually have). It turned out that I reassembled the joystick with one of the pieces upsidedown (IIRC). It's been a while since I've had a Nintendo joystick apart, so I don't remember exactly which piece it was.

DogP

I wonder if I might have done that. It's clean, I used carb cleaner, as it had a lot of dust/crud in the ball joint. I'll take it back apart this week and report back. Thanks guys.
 
Also, make sure you put the joystick back together properly. I cleaned one a few years ago, reassembled it, and it felt like crap (really hard to move, rather than the really sloppy feel that they usually have). It turned out that I reassembled the joystick with one of the pieces upsidedown (IIRC). It's been a while since I've had a Nintendo joystick apart, so I don't remember exactly which piece it was.

DogP

I agree with this. When I first got my DK, the joystick was really clunky and hard to move. Come to find out, part TKG-23-20 (Spring Stopper) was missing from my joystick assembly. So the spring was just cramming up into the ball joint.

If that part is missing or sitting on the wrong side of the spring, the joystick will not feel right at all.

TMAU-14-16.gif
 
I agree with this. When I first got my DK, the joystick was really clunky and hard to move. Come to find out, part TKG-23-20 (Spring Stopper) was missing from my joystick assembly. So the spring was just cramming up into the ball joint.

If that part is missing or sitting on the wrong side of the spring, the joystick will not feel right at all.

TMAU-14-16.gif

YES..this is what it feels like. It just binds so that it won't return to center and is painful to use. I'll check this out. Thanks for the graphic.
 
Yeah, that's not normal. Nintendo sticks aren't "springy" and feel kind of loose, but shouldn't bind and should generally return to center. I wonder whether 23-20 isn't upside down.

Those plastic discs should not affect travel like you're describing so I doubt that's it.
 
Part 23-20 often wears grooves in it where it rubs against the joystick housing. Sometimes it can be repaired if you file it smooth or you can simply replace it. Mikes Arcade sell the part I believe.
 
If you just wanna be lazy mike sells a whole new repro stick. Thats an option too.
 
I gather the chance that there is enough wear for him to replace parts is pretty slim. Based on what he described he just put it back together wrong. I've rebuilt a lot of these Nintendo sticks and, aside from that plastic collar, and maybe the spring, the parts are very unlikely to wear enough to make a difference.
 
While we're on this topic...

If one was to rebuild a Nintendo stick, which exact parts from Mike's website should be considered wearable, replacement items?
 
While we're on this topic...

If one was to rebuild a Nintendo stick, which exact parts from Mike's website should be considered wearable, replacement items?


Id say these...

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-20

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-21

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-22

Then whichever restrictor you need:
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-51

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TMA-11-17

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TNX-23-18


Microswitches if you REALLY need them...
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TKG-23-13-B


You shouldn't need to replace the balltop/Shaft unless its really chewed up, usually a 800/2000 wet sand of those parts in a drill cleans them up nice.

Clean it out with some degreaser. Soak the base in some CLR to remove the rust. Scrub with an old toothbrush. Then use a little bit of lithium grease on the ball joint. Reassemble.

I like also replacing that little clear plastic bit below the balltop with some clear hose i found at the hardware store.

16643401136_fbd31f3eec_b.jpg


16505208219_37ae8037b0_b.jpg


16505208359_718197dbab_b.jpg
 
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While we're on this topic...



If one was to rebuild a Nintendo stick, which exact parts from Mike's website should be considered wearable, replacement items?


From what I've seen, most joysticks don't need any items replaced as there isn't much wear. Mikes restrictor is likely laser cut and can be smoother due to this. 99% of the Nintendo joysticks just need to be cleaned.
 
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