Two games, actually. The Nintendo version of Space Firebird also used this cabinet design.
Nintendo Helifire Restoration
- Thread starter CamaroMurph
- Start date
Two games, actually. The Nintendo version of Space Firebird also used this cabinet design.
Tighe
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How is this moving along?
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CamaroMurph
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Ah. Called out for my slowness.
I have made some progresss. I have painted the coin door and bezel brackets. I have also pulled out the monitor chassis and started making a list for a cap kit.
I'll post pic's of the painting this weekend if I can. I'm in Europe right now.
Murph
I have made some progresss. I have painted the coin door and bezel brackets. I have also pulled out the monitor chassis and started making a list for a cap kit.
I'll post pic's of the painting this weekend if I can. I'm in Europe right now.
Murph
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CamaroMurph
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Tighe
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Bump .
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CamaroMurph
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Great Timing.......
I just got the monitor chassis cleaned up and got a mouser order started for it. I just need to add a few other parts to my order and then place it.
Interesting finding going through the Sanyo 20-DZC schematics and my chassis yesterday. I have one cap, C460, that appears to be in the wrong location. One leg of the cap is in the solder hole for the cap and the other leg is actually in a resister solder hole. The resister leg is then also shifted over one hole in an empty spot. The resistor is no big deal as according to the schematic is on a common trace with where the one end is soldered. The cap on the other hand according to the schematic is not correct.
I have one cap, C484, that I could not find on the schematic anywhere. I had one cap, C485 that was broken off and missing. I have one cap, C205 that the schematic say's should be 22uF-25V and the cap that is in there is a 100uF-25V. The funny thing is the monitor worked at least for one game the only time I have ever powered the game on. I shut it down after one game as the monitor started breathing.
Murph
I just got the monitor chassis cleaned up and got a mouser order started for it. I just need to add a few other parts to my order and then place it.
Interesting finding going through the Sanyo 20-DZC schematics and my chassis yesterday. I have one cap, C460, that appears to be in the wrong location. One leg of the cap is in the solder hole for the cap and the other leg is actually in a resister solder hole. The resister leg is then also shifted over one hole in an empty spot. The resistor is no big deal as according to the schematic is on a common trace with where the one end is soldered. The cap on the other hand according to the schematic is not correct.
I have one cap, C484, that I could not find on the schematic anywhere. I had one cap, C485 that was broken off and missing. I have one cap, C205 that the schematic say's should be 22uF-25V and the cap that is in there is a 100uF-25V. The funny thing is the monitor worked at least for one game the only time I have ever powered the game on. I shut it down after one game as the monitor started breathing.
Murph
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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Tighe
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This is awesome! Keep up the good work!
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JamBurglar
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So cool!!!
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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CamaroMurph
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I got alot done yesterday and there were some highs and some lows. I installed the original pcb and it worked but the colors were messed up. We could play the game fine but graphics problems. I felt around on the ESS board a and the 8080 chip was really hot. Out came the freeze spray. Well, did I mention I usually have bad luck with freeze spray and making things worse. Guess what, after some freeze spray I could no longer play the game anymore. I sprayed multiple things so now I've got some work to do.
I was going out last night and time to work was getting short. I had a spare boardset of unknown status. I pulled it our hoping for a high to finish the work on. Quickly installed it and tested. Worse than the other boardset. Doh. Went out last night on an extreme low.
After a few drinks last night and some sleep, I woke this morning with a revelation, When I installed the spare board set I didn't look to see that it had the 2 board to board jumper cables on it. Similar to the jumper harness on 2 board DK. Guess what, it didn't. I installed the two harness' and reinstalled in the cabinet this morning. Results below. Looks like it needs some adjustment but at least I have a good starting point. I will also work to get the original boardset going. Which will be much easier with a spare working set.
I was going out last night and time to work was getting short. I had a spare boardset of unknown status. I pulled it our hoping for a high to finish the work on. Quickly installed it and tested. Worse than the other boardset. Doh. Went out last night on an extreme low.
After a few drinks last night and some sleep, I woke this morning with a revelation, When I installed the spare board set I didn't look to see that it had the 2 board to board jumper cables on it. Similar to the jumper harness on 2 board DK. Guess what, it didn't. I installed the two harness' and reinstalled in the cabinet this morning. Results below. Looks like it needs some adjustment but at least I have a good starting point. I will also work to get the original boardset going. Which will be much easier with a spare working set.
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sk8ersublime
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Awesome work! I love Nintendo cabs, and now that I have seen this type I want one!
You have a very nice collection my friend
You have a very nice collection my friend
JamBurglar
Well-known member
Jyyyeahhhh!
Looks awesome!
I was at the Pinball HOF in Vegas a couple of weeks ago. I was sad to see a converted Helifire cab.
I was at the Pinball HOF in Vegas a couple of weeks ago. I was sad to see a converted Helifire cab.
