Nintendo Cocktail DK Jr. => Popeye

Teknotoyz

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Well, may have pulled a dumb move, but I think the problem is unrelated to me putting a Popeye board in the machine. My idea was to use a Popeye board in a DK Jr. cocktail table. I bought a working board from Slots, installed it tonight.

The board worked fine, coined up and played a game. The game was on for 20 minutes or so... then I turned it off and installed Popeye art work.....
Turned the game back on, Popeye title screen, then blank, sound continued.

Monitor appears dead, checked the B+ voltage and I get 140v (crap), run the POT to both extremes and no change..... Will check power diodes tomorrow, then I'm out of ideas!
What next on the 20EZ? (No neck glow, I assume I'm in HV shutdown with 140v on the B+)

As far as the Popeye, I assumed the boards were the same as the DK series, the cocktail uses the edge connector. After this happened I double checked power, there are some differences in that DK Jr. uses 12v. Is it safe to use these boards in a Jr. cocktail? I played a game, I would assume if something was wrong it would not have booted, coined up, or played.

Damn monitor, B+ way up should have no association with a game PCB I would assume.

HELP!!

DK Jr. Connector
Looks like a few voltages Popeye doesn't need on pins Popeye doesn't call out as used.
b994dbbc.jpg


Popeye connector (w/ FCC filter board)
fc9054ca.jpg
 
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Well, may have pulled a dumb move, but I think the problem is unrelated to me putting a Popeye board in the machine. My idea was to use a Popeye board in a DK Jr. cocktail table. I bought a working board from Slots, installed it tonight.

The board worked fine, coined up and played a game. The game was on for 20 minutes or so... then I turned it off and installed Popeye art work.....
Turned the game back on, Popeye title screen, then blank, sound continued.

Monitor appears dead, checked the B+ voltage and I get 140v (crap), run the POT to both extremes and no change..... Will check power diodes tomorrow, then I'm out of ideas!
What next on the 20EZ? (No neck glow, I assume I'm in HV shutdown with 140v on the B+)

As far as the Popeye, I assumed the boards were the same as the DK series, the cocktail uses the edge connector. After this happened I double checked power, there are some differences in that DK Jr. uses 12v. Is it safe to use these boards in a Jr. cocktail? I played a game, I would assume if something was wrong it would not have booted, coined up, or played.

Damn monitor, B+ way up should have no association with a game PCB I would assume.

HELP!!

I can't help. I know that Popeye is his own man and not one to be taken lightly. All I can say is I feel for you and...OUCH!
 
Oh, one thing I did think was odd, put an ohm meter on the plug, only 34 ohms across the plug. Seems low if I should have got a reading at all. But no fuses went. Also, 110v out of the isolation transformer. Normal?

On another note:
I also checked all the voltages to the game PCB, power supply seems to be happily pumping out the correct voltages. Evidently Popeye didn't hurt it. I'm thinking the Popeye swap will be OK, unless somebody tells me otherwise!!


Sanyo 20EZ block diagram
0ea15589.jpg
f86dc297.jpg


B+ power schematic
2a044b3d.jpg


I anyone could check and see what resistance a 20EZ has across the plug, may or may not be useful, but curious!


I've got a hunch a diode is blown, machine has the infamous cut ground on the cord which I haven't replaced yet, wonder if the whole machine is hot? Maybe a reason there isn't a blown fuse!!
 
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I'm gonna pull the monitor and work on it this weekend.
Any opinions on the Popeye board?
Mainly concerned that the 12v lines run to something that could end up hurting the board....
If Popeye powered up, coined up, and played, I'm thinking it's ok....
Monitor issue is seperate, but should it be 110v coming out of the iso?
 
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