Nice clean Donkey Kong pick up today

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I just picked this up today from a local guy. The cabinet has had some basic restoration done and is generally really nice and clean. A few scratches on the sides that have been freshly painted over. It has new white t-moulding. The joystick needs to be cleaned at least and a new ball top installed as it looks like someone took a bite out of it.

I don't think I'll do much more than clean it up, put some fresh graphics and new side art on it and play the heck out of it.

It has two issues which might just be one. See the attached image.
The monitor will do this from a cold start about half the time and occasionally it will do it in the middle of a game. It still plays, coins up and has full sound while it's like this. The other thing it does is after it's warmed up and running, for about an inch or so on the left side the picture jumps up and down a little bit. It seems obvious that a cap kit is in the future at least.

With that said, I'm wondering if I can bribe someone in the Denver area with cash, food, beer or whatever to come show me how to do this. I have a nice Weller iron but very, very limited experience and not a good track record of successfully using it.
 

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I just picked this up today from a local guy. The cabinet has had some basic restoration done and is generally really nice and clean. A few scratches on the sides that have been freshly painted over. It has new white t-moulding. The joystick needs to be cleaned at least and a new ball top installed as it looks like someone took a bite out of it.

I don't think I'll do much more than clean it up, put some fresh graphics and new side art on it and play the heck out of it.

It has two issues which might just be one. See the attached image.
The monitor will do this from a cold start about half the time and occasionally it will do it in the middle of a game. It still plays, coins up and has full sound while it's like this. The other thing it does is after it's warmed up and running, for about an inch or so on the left side the picture jumps up and down a little bit. It seems obvious that a cap kit is in the future at least.

With that said, I'm wondering if I can bribe someone in the Denver area with cash, food, beer or whatever to come show me how to do this. I have a nice Weller iron but very, very limited experience and not a good track record of successfully using it.

What you're describing is most likely the flakely pots on the top of the pcb. That left side issue is a classic symptom of that. It's likely causing the scambled screen too. Next time you get that symptom, open the back and adjust the Vertical positioning pot on the PCB and see if that clears it up.
 
Good advice from all here. Mechanical connections (inlcuding the wiper in a pot) and electricity have always been in a strained relationship.

Even if it's a pot and not a cap, it will need re-capping if it hasn't already been done at some point. Mine had also burned a hole in the flyback.

Wait til DK gets you hooked then plays with you as it inflicts it's evil right when you're having your best game.

Hey JamBurgler, how're your DK scores doing? I haven't been visiting KLOV as much as I'd like. You were always ahead of me on DK... right now my high is 530,000. I've been talking to one of the better Kong Off competitors to visit my arcade--he lives just a few hours south of me. Our wives will shop or whatever as we work toward attacking some of the high scores on a few classic games. Even if we don't, it should be fun.
 
If the left side of your monitor 'sags' a little bit, be sure to check your B+ voltage after the cap kit is installed.
 
I just picked this up today from a local guy. The cabinet has had some basic restoration done and is generally really nice and clean. A few scratches on the sides that have been freshly painted over. It has new white t-moulding. The joystick needs to be cleaned at least and a new ball top installed as it looks like someone took a bite out of it.

I don't think I'll do much more than clean it up, put some fresh graphics and new side art on it and play the heck out of it.

It has two issues which might just be one. See the attached image.
The monitor will do this from a cold start about half the time and occasionally it will do it in the middle of a game. It still plays, coins up and has full sound while it's like this. The other thing it does is after it's warmed up and running, for about an inch or so on the left side the picture jumps up and down a little bit. It seems obvious that a cap kit is in the future at least.

With that said, I'm wondering if I can bribe someone in the Denver area with cash, food, beer or whatever to come show me how to do this. I have a nice Weller iron but very, very limited experience and not a good track record of successfully using it.

I had that same problem your having . Theres a hold pot in the middle of the monitor chassis . Turn it to the middle with the game off , then power on the game and adjust it to where the picture goes back to normal .
 
The cap kit probably wouldn't hurt but definitely adjust that horizontal hold. Should make it playable until you can cap it.
 
Here is where the pot you should adjust is. It's a little cramped getting in there and I would use a plastic adjustment tool. - Barry
 

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Yeah you need a long screw driver , that pot is hard to find and reach .

I see it. Sheesh, it's directly below the anode. Is this some kind of initiation for new guys? ;)

Thanks a lot everyone for your input. I've ordered a cap kit and I'll see if I can find an old motherboard or stereo amp or something to practice removing solder joints and re-flowing it.

After that, this will be my first monitor discharge. I've read that it will be easier to pull the whole monitor out to remove the boards to re-cap it. Does that jive?
 
I see it. Sheesh, it's directly below the anode. Is this some kind of initiation for new guys? ;)

Thanks a lot everyone for your input. I've ordered a cap kit and I'll see if I can find an old motherboard or stereo amp or something to practice removing solder joints and re-flowing it.

After that, this will be my first monitor discharge. I've read that it will be easier to pull the whole monitor out to remove the boards to re-cap it. Does that jive?

Yes, pull the monitor from the cab. It comes out of the back pretty easily. Discharge and remove the chassis. It's not too bad to do, just be gentle with the chassis as a lot of people crack the pcb and that's no good. -Barry
 
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Here I am capping the Sanyo in my DK Junior:



In this video I discharge a K7000 (would be the same as on a sanyo)

Skip to 14 minutes.


The first time I degaussed a monitor. I was expecting so much more. :D

 
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I pulled the monitor and started the cap kit on the monitor today. I have everything installed except C464. The kit came with a 2.2μF 50v but the worksheet and everything I've found online suggests that this should be a 22μF 50v. Was this just a mistake when they packed the kit. It seems so, but I thought I would check with you guys.
 

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