NHL Open Ice monitor problem

[CamsTyphoon]

I may have found the problem or another problem.......I just walked up to the back of the machine and inside the dark cabinet was this glowing in the dark!!

So you don't miss it.....I posted back regarding the TP202 in the post before this on the prior page

 

[KevinMullins]

The B+ seems about right from what I recall. Maybe someone else can concur.

But those resistors are WAY too hot. (good on ya for catching that) Even though they are high wattage resistors they should not be glowing red hot.
Is that in the area of R760?
Can you get a closer but focused pic of the area? (I know it's hard to do in tight quarters)

I had a U5000 utterly kick my tail years ago when it would burn up in that area.
I'm am NOT an aficionado on the U2000, U5000, K7400, or K7500's that's for sure...they all share the similar layout...so hopefully more help will chime in.

 

[CamsTyphoon]

The B+ seems about right from what I recall. Maybe someone else can concur.

But those resistors are WAY too hot. (good on ya for catching that) Even though they are high wattage resistors they should not be glowing red hot.
Is that in the area of R760?
Can you get a closer but focused pic of the area? (I know it's hard to do in tight quarters)

I had a U5000 utterly kick my tail years ago when it would burn up in that area.
I'm am NOT an aficionado on the U2000, U5000, K7400, or K7500's that's for sure...they all share the similar layout...so hopefully more help will chime in.

Good I'm glad to hear that, another opinion would be good to.

I'm glad I had the lights off and caught it!

Yes, I got a close look and it is R760 that is stamped just under the left side of the 2 resistors.

Ok we'll wait for some more input, but you've helped me out huge so far! Thank you.

 

[KevinMullins]

Not exactly sure what someone has done there, but R760 should be a single 470Ohm 1 watt resistor. Looks like someone has doubled up some monster wattage resistor in there. The transistor way off by itself is known to cause this area to burn up. (ask me how I know) Q705 I think it is.
There was a horizontal output "service kit" put out for known problems in this area of the chassis. Yours doesn't appear to have it installed as there is no heatsink on that transistor near the hot resistors.(Q703 I believe) You can probably fix it without it and be just fine for home use. (I never put the kit on my U5000 with similar problem)
You'll probably want to check to see if the H.O.T. isn't shorted also. (Q704)

 

[Hewitson]

Wow... I'd say you were very lucky the chassis didn't end up catching on fire.

 

[CamsTyphoon]

Not exactly sure what someone has done there, but R760 should be a single 470Ohm 1 watt resistor. Looks like someone has doubled up some monster wattage resistor in there. The transistor way off by itself is known to cause this area to burn up. (ask me how I know) Q705 I think it is.
There was a horizontal output "service kit" put out for known problems in this area of the chassis. Yours doesn't appear to have it installed as there is no heatsink on that transistor near the hot resistors.(Q703 I believe) You can probably fix it without it and be just fine for home use. (I never put the kit on my U5000 with similar problem)
You'll probably want to check to see if the H.O.T. isn't shorted also. (Q704)

Hmmmm, that's not great news.
If I'm already going to have to do work on thatboard should I also do the service kit(s)?

So replace:
-R760 with the correct 4700hm 1 watt resistor
-transistor(which one? Z705? see attached pic)

-H.O.T. is it Q703 as per the attached better angle pic?

How should a newb to board repair handle this?
buy parts and get someone local to solder them? I have a few guy that could probably do it for me
Send it away to be repaired?

Wow... I'd say you were very lucky the chassis didn't end up catching on fire.

Thank god, that would have been bad news!!!

 

[mecha]

mmmmmm.... disregard what I said, would've helped if I read all of page 2 as well lol all the bases appear to be covered.

 

[KevinMullins]

If I'm already going to have to do work on that board should I also do the service kit(s)?

I personally wouldn't sweat the service kits just yet since it's a home use machine.
But I wold recommend doing a capacitor kit on it while it is out.
And also going completely over the chassis looking for bad solder joints and traces.

So replace:
-R760 with the correct 4700hm 1 watt resistor
-transistor(which one? Z705? see attached pic)

-H.O.T. is it Q703 as per the attached better angle pic?

See attached pics.

How should a newb to board repair handle this?
buy parts and get someone local to solder them? I have a few guy that could probably do it for me
Send it away to be repaired?

That is a hard call to make.....these particular models can be a bit tricky, not the easiest to "learn" on if there happens to be multiple issues. Some of the suggestions I'm giving now would be where I would start, but that doesn't mean it'll absolutely cure it or if there are others issues. But then again....sometimes starting with the more difficult ones teaches you the best.

Decent soldering skills is definitely a must either way. It's not hard, just takes some practice. And you'd only need a cheap iron to get you started. (literally - I use a $10-15 iron all the time still)

And please read up on discharging the anode hole on the crt tube. Either way you go you will need to pull the chassis, discharging the tube will prevent any "shocking surprises".

 

[CamsTyphoon]

I personally wouldn't sweat the service kits just yet since it's a home use machine.
But I wold recommend doing a capacitor kit on it while it is out.
And also going completely over the chassis looking for bad solder joints and traces.

That is a hard call to make.....these particular models can be a bit tricky, not the easiest to "learn" on if there happens to be multiple issues. Some of the suggestions I'm giving now would be where I would start, but that doesn't mean it'll absolutely cure it or if there are others issues. But then again....sometimes starting with the more difficult ones teaches you the best.

Decent soldering skills is definitely a must either way. It's not hard, just takes some practice. And you'd only need a cheap iron to get you started. (literally - I use a $10-15 iron all the time still)

And please read up on discharging the anode hole on the crt tube. Either way you go you will need to pull the chassis, discharging the tube will prevent any "shocking surprises".

Sounds good! I will replace the parts we've talked about and do a cap kit. I will read up on discharging the tube for sure!

I have a pretty decent soldering iron I bought for soldering switches on pinball machines. I'm just a little scared, I don't want to cause any damage to the board!! What is the proper solder to use?

Where do most of you order parts from? I should get on that right now.

Thanks again!

 

[RetroHacker]

Where do most of you order parts from? I should get on that right now.

Bob Roberts is a wonderful source of parts.

http://therealbobroberts.net/

-Ian

 

[KevinMullins]

60/40 rosin core solder works fine for this sort of thing.
Personally I use the .032" sized stuff for most everything.

http://www.mouser.com/ and http://www.digikey.com/ are good places for obscure transistors and whatnot.
Might need to cross them to NTE brand if they become difficult to find - usually a little more spendy though.
http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$$Search

But check out Bob Roberts first, good guy, lots of parts and knowledge.
(doesn't take PayPal or credit cards though)