:-/ NFS Underground Immersion USB board repair. 1.0Ωj 2w resistor

Spunky_Bruiser

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:-/ NFS Underground Immersion USB board repair. 1.0Ωj 2w resistor

Ok so,.. Picked up a NFS underground. New monitor, The 24 v power supply was dead, and I bought a new power pro 24 v power supply. I should have looked over the board a little bit better because almost right after I powered it up, pop, little flash and then I shut down the power. I looked over it with a flashlight but must have missed a little discoloration on the 1.0Ωj 2w resistor. At least I am pretty sure it is a resistor.

So my question is this, Iiii never changed out a resistor I am not even sure where to look, Is this a particular kind of resistor that needs only this band or symbol line up 1.0Ωj 2w .. I found one that was close a k not a J.. But these are the things I felt I better ask people who did this before. Luckily the board under the resistor does not look burned at all or damaged.

Of all the projects I did, this one is the one I am learning the most off of lol. But that is why I started doing these. To learn and grow. Just hate being so green at times. Well that and not wanting to do even more damage to the board etc.

Pictures,.. board when brought home, can see a little discoloration.
The other 2 of the resistor.
 

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Better photo

This is a better photo of the part.
 

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That resistor doesn't really look bad... it's common for power resistors to be discolored, since they do run hot. I'd check it with a multimeter... it's probably fine (it should read around 1 ohm). With a pop and a flash, I'd expect a hole or a more pronounced burn, rather than an even toasty look.

I'd look more closely at the rest of the board for other parts that look bad.

DogP
 
Ok,.. maybe found something here,..

Ok so I knew that area smelled of ozone, and where the flash came from so I looked closer and found,... this,..... What this is,.. I have no idea. .. but maybe the cause. The only spot I found with any burn discoloration. It is such a tiny part. The back of the board in the area does not have any discoloration though. I am scared to replug it in since it still smells of ozone and would hate to damage the board further.

Also, thank you for your time :)
 

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That's more like it. It looks like a surface mount transistor... can you read any of the numbers on it? I see a 5 and maybe a 7 (unless that's part of the damage from the burnt part). Any other numbers/markings?

DogP
 
looks like a 1 ... 5 7

That's more like it. It looks like a surface mount transistor... can you read any of the numbers on it? I see a 5 and maybe a 7 (unless that's part of the damage from the burnt part). Any other numbers/markings?

DogP

Looks like there may be a 1 the other 2 def seems like a 5 and a 7 but around the 1 there may be something else like a J but it looks like that is where it cracked.

I hope this isnt because of the new power supply,... I bought a 24 v 5 am power supply from twisted Q. I checked the volt meter and was reading 24 even. PS before that was only reading like 3.2

I had to put my camera in 8 x zoom and then a magnifying glass to take these photos.
 

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There are other small fries like that on the board like that and the numbers are (small S with triangle under it 1a 57 sideways.
 
Yeah, I am not sure I will be doing it that small, but my brother who worked on Nukes in the AF said he will help me with that.

I have an old broken monitor chassis I have been fooling around with, will never work again but good for practice. Eventually I would not mind fixing up my Mr doo board. I need to look over it and see what is wrong but until I am confident with the real deal I will keep practicing and enjoying the calm while poking and prodding.

I'll give it a shot and thank you for your help. I would have had no idea where to begin. Well I had an idea and then you pointed me in the right direction.

Would you think that break is from age, long storage without use, or the new Power supply I installed? I mean I put everything in the right places where it went and changed out a peter chou 24 v/4.7 a ps with a 24v 5a power pro... people told me more Amp is ok though,.. used the volt meter first to make sure,.. I will buy a few of those little pieces and let you know when I hook it up a second time.

Thank you so much for all of your input. I am not sure how to praise you or rate you up on the forums, but I personally thank you :)
 
Cool... good luck! If your brother can't do it, I'd be glad to do it for you, but not sure it's worth the cost of shipping the board both ways, with an unknown outcome (since I can't test it here). I may actually have some of those transistors on hand from an old project I did though.

It's hard to say what would cause it... possibly the old PS damaged it when it died, then it popped when powered with full power again. Or maybe it was just ready to go... or, maybe there's something else causing it to pop, and it'll die again once you replace it.

DogP
 
update

So,.. yeah the 1.0Ωj 2w resistor is also shot, or well has a short to be more persist. So,.. Will wait off until I get one of those in the mail and try again. We did not change the surface resistor out, well we took it off but going to change them both when the new resistor arrives.

Not really sure what the J means, I found a few K ones but I could understand k, m, or t, values,.. Anyway, I'll check back in I guess in a week and see if these work out.
 
Why do you think the resistor is shot? It's only 1 ohm, so it'll look very much like a short with a multimeter. Resistors almost always go open when they go bad, not short.

J denotes the tolerance... J is 5%, K is 10%, etc.

DogP
 
Howdy! I'm slightly familiar with those.

It's possible that a logitech steering wheel has the same board in it, but not sure.

I can take pics of mine in a week or two if you need any info.
 
Resistor shot.

When we connected the volt meter to just the part to see if it would complete a connection it did not beep or give a sign that the connection would travel from one leg to the other. Like I said I am only getting into this part of the hobby now so I defer any wisdom I get. He did say that it was rare for them to fail but I most likely had that rare case and if we were going to replace that tiny tiny part, that we might as well change both at the same time instead of risking blowing out something more. I just retested it and it did not beep and the other ones on the board I tested beeped.

Also I would love a picture, I hope to get this working again but at the same time curious and always like options.
 
Why do you think the resistor is shot? It's only 1 ohm, so it'll look very much like a short with a multimeter. Resistors almost always go open when they go bad, not short.

J denotes the tolerance... J is 5%, K is 10%, etc.

DogP

I changed them both just to be careful. It was acting buggy with the meter from my brothers assessment. First real soldering job, and those components were so small but I did it wired it up,.. and at first try.. yeah it worked sort of... I was able to play the game again but FFB was still not working. Was a tad disapointed but the next day Something told me check the volt meter and it was so strange, I was not getting any readings from the 24 v power supply... It was not plugged in,.. Plugged that bad boy up and turned it on and OMGggggggg there was another red light on that board on that I did not even know was there and the force feed back worked. I can not thank you enough for your help. I had no idea where to begin and now I think I have a lot better understanding of a few more aspects of this hobby. I do not think I am up to the point of repairing my Mr do board, but who knows,.. maybe I will try now with a little more confidence.

I still need to some how fix the stick shift board inside the pc and info on that is more scarce but for now, I have some automatic driving to do :)
 
Nice... great to hear when something works, and glad you're learning new skills along the way!

DogP
 
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