Next Up - The Centipede Twins

FrizzleFried

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Next Up - The Centipede Twins (pix added)

Last night I jumped in to see what was up with the two Centipedes I got in the "haul"...

The first one was working, but the monitor looked pretty asstastic.

I removed the back and noticed about 1/3" of dust across everything... taking note that there is a Wells Gardner monitor in the cab. After a bit of adjustment, the monitor looks beautiful! Sure, there is some burn-in, but you really can't see it at all when the game is powered up unless you stick a light right in front of the tube. I cleaned the cab up, vacuumed it out, etc. Overall, aside from the CPO, the machine is in quite beautiful shape. To do: New 3-prong plug (most of these have the ground pin removed), marquee light (tube and/or starter most likely). I'd already fired this cab up, so I knew it was working, so it wasn't a major surprise that I was able to adjust the monitor to look so nice.

The next Centipede is a non-working `pede... this particular cab was inaccessible until yesterday evening. I'd not even plugged it in. It was with great trepidation that I plugged her in... and amazingly enough, this cab has all 3 prongs on the power cord. Well, the machine fired up... mostly. I got the coin door click... upon coin up I got flashing Atari LED lights... and when I pressed P1 start I got... CENTIPEDE NOISE! Woot! It appears the machine is playing blind! After pulling the back off I noticed immediately that the machine was MUCH MUCH MUCH cleaner than the other `pede. I also noticed there is an Electrohome monitor in it. After checking for AC, sure enough, the monitor is getting power.... but not powering up. My guess: blown fuse on the chassis... likely the smaller one in the middle...the one on the back side looked fine from what I can "see". This is certainly nothing a Bob Roberts kit couldn't fix... I am going with the deluxe kit and replacing the flyback I think... just in case.

Well... to be sure the PCB was operating correctly, I pulled it from the non-working cab and dropped it in the working cab... it worked! NICE! High scores are all still saved too... the PCB from the working cab has a high score of around 350,000 while the PCB from the non-working cab has a high score of around 56,000. My guess is that Centipede was one of the first to "die" and get stuffed back in the "garage" of the place I picked it up from. To do: Fix the monitor chassis... replace the CPO... clean her up a bit. Everything else looks great!

EDIT: Here are some photos...

She cleaned up pretty nicely inside. It's sure nice not having to deal with mouse piss or crap...

CENTIPEDE2_INSIDE1.jpg


The monitor looks good in semi-dark to dark lighting and on. If you put the monitor in direct light you can see the semi-substantial burn. I can make out Centipede and what MIGHT be Rampage?? I am not sure...

CENTIPEDE2_WORKING1.jpg
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CENTIPEDE2_WORKING2.jpg



Here is the control panel... it obviously needs replacing. Since this one I am selling, I am not sure what I am going to do. I doubt I'll get $50 more than I would otherwise if I do replace it. I am considering offering it up for $400.00 as-is ... and offering the option for me to install a new CPO for $60.00 and/or a new monitor for $225.00... of course KLOVians would get a "cheap bastard" discount on all those rates.

CENTIPEDE2_CP1.jpg
 
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Not even a comment? Odd...

...in any case, I pulled the monitor from the non-working `pede and both fuses meter fine in-circuit. I will have to desolder them to determine their out of circuit condition. What else would cause "nothing" with full AC power to the chassis?
 
Definitely agree about the cpo - don't bother unless they pay extra for it, you won't recoup the cost especially in these times.
 
is the blind pede as clean as that one, frizz? i'd say that's a good deal for $400. you could always offer it both ways, as is or with a new cpo/monitor/rebuilt trackball, etc.
 
is the blind pede as clean as that one, frizz? i'd say that's a good deal for $400. you could always offer it both ways, as is or with a new cpo/monitor/rebuilt trackball, etc.

I've not had a chance to really dive in to the other one. From the casual looks of it, the side art is just a hair worse (a couple more scratches), but the CPO is in better shape.

I did take a trip to Home Depot to pick up some parts (and forget a few I needed). I managed to break down on the way home about a mile from the house. The damn serpentine belt broke. Guess what. I had one. The problem was I didn't have a wrench to assist with pulling the tensioner back. Well, after trying and trying and trying...and getting some help trying... I managed to find someone with a wrench. Unfortunately, once I put the damn thing on, it was apparent what caused the other one to break. One of the pully's is making serious noise. It sounds like a water pump to me. I'll know more this weekend.

Now back to the `pede... here is how the marquee looks lit up. Beautiful!

CENTIPEDE2_MARQUEEON2.jpg
 
Dude, get the chicks high score off there ;)

Hahaha...I actually played my first "real" game last night.... but only got 39K. I suck at Centipede.

EDIT: Oh, and for those out there who claim there is a noticeable difference between the dedicated and the Arcadeshop/MAME versions of the game... I dunno what to tell you. They "feel" the same to me. Perhaps I need to get the games actually physically side-by-side to see if there's a difference.
 
Hahaha...I actually played my first "real" game last night.... but only got 39K. I suck at Centipede.


i don't think it's hard to suck at centipede. i can't figure out how billy mitchell supposedly got 15 mil on one... i used to play the heck out of mine, and never managed over 90k or so.
 
What is a good score on Centipede? I have owned a cocktail table since 1999 and can't get over 70,000. I love this game and everything about it, the game play, the art, the design of the cabinet, great game!
 
Not even a comment? Odd...

...in any case, I pulled the monitor from the non-working `pede and both fuses meter fine in-circuit. I will have to desolder them to determine their out of circuit condition. What else would cause "nothing" with full AC power to the chassis?

Might sound dumb, but is the video input connected? Or the screen control turned all the way down? Those would get you "nothing" even though you have AC.
 
Might sound dumb, but is the video input connected? Or the screen control turned all the way down? Those would get you "nothing" even though you have AC.


Nope...when I said nothing, I meant nothing... no crackle at start up... nothing.

I pulled the chassis and the small fuse is blown...which means I have a bad HOT, or fly or something I am guessing. Luckily, I have a known working G07 chassis to replace it with (after rebuild of course).
 
Nope...when I said nothing, I meant nothing... no crackle at start up... nothing.

I pulled the chassis and the small fuse is blown...which means I have a bad HOT, or fly or something I am guessing. Luckily, I have a known working G07 chassis to replace it with (after rebuild of course).

Yeah, and if that small fuse is blown, that large cap almost certainly has a charge. :) Man I discharged it one time with a screwdriver and it scared the crap out of me. The loud pop and giant ass sparks were quite the surprise. I think I would use an HV probe next time for less drama.
 
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That's a bonus to have two of the same machines for troubleshooting and both of those look great. RE: the overlay replacement, it depends on the buyer but I've found most homebuyers that are going to only get one game want the monitor to look great as well as the controls. They don't seem to fuss over the sideart like we collectors do.

I'm not that good at Centipede either but I've found that trackball makes a HUGE difference in scoring. I can't stand to play a game with a worn trackball, it takes too much mojo off the little skill I have.

Besides replacing the shafts during a rebuilt, I always replace the ball since those get reduced in size too from wear. Most of the bearings I'll just clean, flush and lubricate by chucking an old shaft in a drill and then putting the bearings on the end one at a time; spray with a cleaner, spin, flush with more cleaner, spin, ect. I use Tri-Flow to lubricate them after cleaning.

If the bearings are too rusty or worn, I'll flush and clean the new ones the same way. They seem to be packed with an anti-corrosive gel that results if horrible action if left untouched.
 
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