Next Project: Super Hang On. Uncommon Version?

NCCML

Member

Donor 2013
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
274
Reaction score
6
Location
California
Hey all. Now that I'm finally finished (for now anyway) with my switching gun game project (link here for the curious: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=413576), I think I'm gonna jump into an actual restoration.

This cabinet is actually not too bad. It's got a few things I'd like to fix. You can't tell from the pics but the back of the cabinet base has been ripped off. Will likely need to completely re cut the back and sides of the base, and then re cover them with black vinyl, since that's what it looks like is on there now.

I have done a bit of searching for info on this cabinet. It looks like this version of Super Hang On is a bit less common. It's a sit down version of the game (I don't have the chair). It resembles the original Hang On cabinet, but it's different in a few ways. At first I assumed it was a conversion, but it looks like it was an official dedicated version of the game.

Haven't opened it up yet to see what's what on the inside. The guy I bought it from forgot to give me the key, and I'd prefer to keep the locks original if I can. He says he'll mail them to me. Hopefully that happens.

Looks like this game normally has a rumble in the handle bars. Mine doesn't rumble. I think there are some lights throughout the cabinet that are normally supposed to light up too that aren't. Marquee doesn't work. Game will randomly reboot. Might just be a loose connection there. Looks like some serious mouse damage around the coin door area. Pretty gross actually. You can't see it with the door closed, but when you open it you get an eye full. Not sure how extensive the mouse infestation was, can't really tell until I get the panel off.

EDIT: What I thought was a mound of mouse pee/poo isn't. No mice were here. Must have been something spilled... maybe more than once. Glad for that.

The side art is kinda torn and worn in some areas (although not too terrible) so I'm hoping that somebody out there might have a lead on some replacement side art for this thing.

I'm also a little crushed that the previous operator drilled through the metal moldings on the front left side to install a lock bar. First and only thing I've really done to this thing was to pull the two bars off the poor coin doors.

Anybody got any leads on art or the metal molding?

Other NOS or great looking pieces?

I'll update this thread as I go, but it won't be overnight. I work on this stuff in between work and 3 kids, so I am slooooooow lol.

A few pics to show you where I am starting! At least on the outside anyway.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0849.jpg
    SAM_0849.jpg
    993.5 KB · Views: 72
  • SAM_0848.jpg
    SAM_0848.jpg
    841.5 KB · Views: 98
  • SAM_0852.jpg
    SAM_0852.jpg
    863.8 KB · Views: 66
  • SAM_0850.jpg
    SAM_0850.jpg
    833.1 KB · Views: 60
  • SAM_0851.jpg
    SAM_0851.jpg
    928.8 KB · Views: 63
Last edited:
So I am hoping one of you guys has got either a Super Hang On just like this, or a regular Hang On sit down cabinet (looks the same).

I got the door open on this guy, and it looks like at some point in it's life it's been altered somehow, but I really can't tell how. I am hoping somebody can take a few pics of the inside of their cabinet from the back door looking in.

I can confirm that Sega used the regular sit down Hang On cabinet with some new art and a new marquee for this game. You can see the original Hang On art under the Super art. Well at the edges anyway. But all the stickers and papers on the inside do say Super Hang On, so it was definitely a factory conversion.

I would really like to get this cabinet as original as possible. So I would love to know what has been removed from inside. I will post some pics in a few to show what I am referring to.
 
Pics.

First pic shows the "shadow" for lack of a better word of where something was sitting. Basically it's a cleaner spot where the dust was built up on whatever was there, and so left a "shadow" of whatever it was when it was removed. Related to the monitor? Front area that looks like it was supposed to light up? Not sure.

Second pic is the bottom power supply section. I'm assuming the grey power supply isn't original?

There are a couple wires disconnected.

I may have found the reason the board was resetting. A cap on the board is literally loose, just wiggles around.

Hope somebody out there can assist with photos of their cabinet, or even just knowledge of this thing.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0881.jpg
    SAM_0881.jpg
    799.2 KB · Views: 32
  • SAM_0882.jpg
    SAM_0882.jpg
    989.2 KB · Views: 33
Yeah, it does say made in Japan. If anybody is interested I can upload some pics of all the paper labels throughout.

Thanks for the links.

I bought the regular Hang On manual on eBay today, as well as the more common Super Hang On manual, mainly just for the schematics on the latter.
 
Last edited:
Ok! Have made some progress since the last post, thought I'd update as I go.

Gonna start with the damage to the base. Here is what I started with. Sides are smashed where the leg levelers were attached, back piece is completely gone. Somebody took the leg levelers off and put wheels on instead. I'm assuming at some point there was a rough move and you can see where things just got tore up.

Also, a pic of the holes in the front where the lock bar was.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0853.jpg
    SAM_0853.jpg
    869.3 KB · Views: 14
  • SAM_0854.jpg
    SAM_0854.jpg
    922.4 KB · Views: 16
  • SAM_0857.jpg
    SAM_0857.jpg
    814.8 KB · Views: 14
  • SAM_0971.jpg
    SAM_0971.jpg
    977.5 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
Few more pics of the damage.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1092.jpg
    SAM_1092.jpg
    923.8 KB · Views: 14
  • SAM_1097.jpg
    SAM_1097.jpg
    818.1 KB · Views: 12
  • SAM_1094.jpg
    SAM_1094.jpg
    933.9 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_1093.jpg
    SAM_1093.jpg
    728 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_1089.jpg
    SAM_1089.jpg
    937.1 KB · Views: 14
And now the repair. Learned a bunch through all this. I wanted to keep things looking as original as possible. The original piece had black vinyl over top of cabinet grade plywood. You could see the grain of the wood through the original vinyl, so I tried my very best to maintain that. Went to a giant lumber yard and they helped me find some cabinet grade 5/8" plywood that would match the grain as close as possible. The wood is called Baltic Birch. Using some clamps and a flush trim router bit, I took the best looking side piece and made a copy. I then used that copy to make the other side the same way.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0978.jpg
    SAM_0978.jpg
    895 KB · Views: 10
  • SAM_0979.jpg
    SAM_0979.jpg
    825.9 KB · Views: 12
  • SAM_0980.jpg
    SAM_0980.jpg
    983.8 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_0981.jpg
    SAM_0981.jpg
    778.8 KB · Views: 10
  • SAM_0985.jpg
    SAM_0985.jpg
    947.3 KB · Views: 10
I also cut a new back piece. Used the front piece as reference. They're basically the same, except that the front has cutouts for the seat bars that slide through. Outer dimensions are the same though. Had to then cut a slot into all 3 pieces, which fits onto a raised portion of the cabinet. I cut that slot about 1/16" of an inch off the first time, so I filled it with bondo and recut. Hence the mess. That's the back side though, which is never seen, so I didn't stress it much.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1001.jpg
    SAM_1001.jpg
    850.4 KB · Views: 8
  • SAM_1000.jpg
    SAM_1000.jpg
    931.4 KB · Views: 8
This was my opportunity to fix a couple things on the bottom half of the cabinet as well. Filled the holes that were drilled for the lock bars. Also fixed some badly chewed up edges on the upright section of the cabinet base. Removed the vinyl first, filled gouges and chips with bondo, and then re applied the vinyl. The sides turned out excellent. I'm a little disappointed in my work on the front where the lock bars were. I *think* I know what I did wrong. After applying the polyurethane I sanded a bit more and gave another bondo touch up. It was perfectly flat, but I think since I used the wet method for the vinyl, the bondo didn't like the rapid tac and may have swelled a little? Regardless, I can see the areas where the holes were patched through the vinyl, and it picks at me. BUT! It's really only noticeable in bright light, and only when you know where to look. So I think I'm gonna live with it like this. Barely noticeable. In hindsight, I should have sealed it all again with another light coat of polyurethane.

Oh, forgot to mention what vinyl I used. I ended up ordering twice, since the first rolled just wasn't a close enough color match to the existing vinyl that isn't going to be changed. I ended up using 3M 1080 M12 Matte Black. Looked REALLY close to the 30 year old stuff that's on there. Much closer than the first roll I got, which was a much deeper black.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1003.jpg
    SAM_1003.jpg
    970.8 KB · Views: 10
  • SAM_1046.jpg
    SAM_1046.jpg
    830.1 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_1047.jpg
    SAM_1047.jpg
    862.2 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_1049.jpg
    SAM_1049.jpg
    944.5 KB · Views: 11
  • SAM_1088.jpg
    SAM_1088.jpg
    949.7 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
And then attached the base again. Applied vinyl. This all turned out exceptionally well. After reading so many people knocking vinyl for the prep work, I was a little nervous about it. But it was super easy. Just sand it and clean it well, and use rapid tac, and it's really easy. Cut new 3/4" corner blocks, wood glue, and used original screws to reattach. I was missing a few screws, so I bought near identical replacements for those few from Home Depot. Only thing really different was the finish, which I believe was yellow zinc on the originals, and the replacements were regular zinc. Looked nearly identical though aside from the color.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1054.jpg
    SAM_1054.jpg
    861.8 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1055.jpg
    SAM_1055.jpg
    915.7 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1052.jpg
    SAM_1052.jpg
    865.5 KB · Views: 12
Masked and painted the bottom. It was pretty worn and sad lookin.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1057.jpg
    SAM_1057.jpg
    838.8 KB · Views: 10
  • SAM_1060.jpg
    SAM_1060.jpg
    956.1 KB · Views: 12
Also re installed the leg levelers. Word of caution: Evaporust DOES remove the finish of certain metal pieces. As is proved by my pictures. I used it to get rid of the rust on the leg levelers (which I also had to straighten out... well the brackets anyway...) but it also removed the yellow zinc finish on the metal. Which really bugged me actually, since I wanted to keep everything as original as possible. Oh well, nothing I could do about it at that point. Still original hardware, and I clear coated it.

Final pics of the game standing up again with repairs. Again, pics don't really do it justice. Looks really awesome in person.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1067.jpg
    SAM_1067.jpg
    860.5 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1072.jpg
    SAM_1072.jpg
    814.8 KB · Views: 16
  • SAM_1073.jpg
    SAM_1073.jpg
    834.3 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1081.jpg
    SAM_1081.jpg
    955.5 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1085.jpg
    SAM_1085.jpg
    871.2 KB · Views: 13
I also tackled the rubber mats that were on the foot rest section of the cabinet. I am on the fence about how it turned out. First, I soaked them for like 3 or 4 days in a mixture of water and dish detergent. Cat litter box worked out well. Brand new, not used lol. I then scrubbed them, and that helped a LOT, but they were still really faded, worn, and stained in some places. That big blob of dirty looking gunk was a piece of gum, who knows how old.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1019.jpg
    SAM_1019.jpg
    775.2 KB · Views: 13
  • SAM_1023.jpg
    SAM_1023.jpg
    974.4 KB · Views: 8
  • SAM_1025.jpg
    SAM_1025.jpg
    971.6 KB · Views: 12
  • SAM_1034.jpg
    SAM_1034.jpg
    949.1 KB · Views: 16
Last edited:
SO! Because I didn't really love the result, I tried something. And I am still on the fence about it. I bought this stuff called Flexi Dip, by Rustoleum, from Home Depot. There is a color coat and a gloss clear coat. The original finish of the pyramid rubber pad was gloss. It's spray on, and forms a rubber coating. It says on the can that you can even peel it off if you like. I didn't try peeling mine, for fear that my coat wasn't thick enough and would look even worse all half peeled off. Where I feel it lacks a bit is in the fact that it's HARD to keep it even and not fill in the "valleys" between the diamond pattern. This happened a bit in some areas, which is definitely visible in the right light. But, then again, it's a foot rest and as long as it looks half decent, I figure I can live with it. I haven't ruled out replacing it completely. I'm still scouring the internet for a suitable replacement. What do you guys think? I'd actually really love some input on how this turned out, and what you guys would do if it were yours.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_1039.jpg
    SAM_1039.jpg
    732.2 KB · Views: 17
  • SAM_1043.jpg
    SAM_1043.jpg
    854 KB · Views: 13
SO! What do you guys think?

I bought a whole bunch of NOS stuff from Mylstar, and will be rebuilding the handle bar/control panel section of the game. Still trying to decide whether to powder coat the black stuff or just spray paint it. I also bought some original Asahi Seiko coin door parts to replace the crappy black pieces that somebody put on mine.

Got a whole slew of parts from Security to rebuild the G07. You should SEE how filthy this thing is. I also might put some serious effort into tracking down a Nanao MC-2030-S, which is what was originally in here.

I ALSO bought an HP 4670 scanner, and plan to scan the side art and have it reproduced. Mine is actually really beat up. It doesn't look awful in the pics, but there are a lot of gouges, chips, and damage to it. And what makes it worse is the fact that the back edges of that section are all smashed up. I need to peel this stuff off, fix the cabinet, recut the t molding groove, and then re apply the new art. This will be a bit of an undertaking for me, since I've never scanned and fixed artwork before. Consider this an open invitation to any photoshop gurus that would like to lend their skills for this project. If I don't get any takers on that offer, I WILL do it myself, and it WILL end up perfect, but I am thinking that there are definitely some people here on the forum that could do it in about 1/50th the time frame that it'll take me. Let me know.

OH! I also started to reproduce the metal trim piece myself since it's proving to be VERY difficult to find a replacement. I've got the metal piece cut and bent, and now I just need to order the copper weld screws and find a shop that has the proper spot welder for them. I have a spot welder, but I don't think it would play well with the screws. I might try. I'll then have to get them chromed to have the correct finish.

So that's what's coming next. Again, it'll be some time before the next update, but I WILL finish this lol. Feedback and general discussion is welcome. In fact, I hope to see some people chime in here. Since I can't work on it 24/7, I would love to talk about it instead.
 
Last edited:
Wow that's a big project good job on the kick plates considering there isn't much options for you
Yeah, it is a good one. Totally worth it though, since you don't see many of these. The stand up Hang On and Super Hang On cabinets are a dime a dozen, but this one is really unique. I love the look of it, and the game play is fun.
 
Awesome work, great to see the progress. I too have never seen one of these in the wild, it's a cool Japanese version.

I'm also in the midst (slowly) of restoring my regular standup SHO. The biggest pain in the ass so far has been dealing with the plastic/fiberglass cowling, stripping it down, sanding it, prepping it, painting it, blah blah.

I'm personally going to try and clean up the metal trim pieces and replace the mats with some new grooved black mats.

In any case, good luck and looking forward to the progress!
 
SO! What do you guys think?

WOW - That is going to be incredible! I have a Super Hang-on (standard upright) I'm working on too, but yours is looking to be in a different league than mine.

$.02 on the Flexi-Dip, it doesn't hold up well to abrasion. I've used Plasti-dip (from what I understand the Flexi is just Rustoleum branding their own version of the product) a bunch and it's great for some things but if you really rest your foot on it and move it around it will peel. You can get Vinyl paint from an auto supply house. The old school Vinyl Die is illegal in CA now, so the best product we can get is this: http://www.tcpglobal.com/SEM-15033_...XYJKD5eT8JCHROI8TQAaAn5UEALw_wcB#.Wk6CvnlG0-U . If you use the prep product then spray it holds much better than plasti-dip. I sprayed some on a part of the leather seats that my kids had worn down hopping in and out and it came out great and held up to lots of abuse.
 
Back
Top Bottom