Next PCB . . Amplifone Deflection Boards (Bare PCB) Color Vectors

dezbaz said:
I get it now, the purpose of doing this would save having to pull apart the 15 pin (floating) plug hardly ever, - Yes?
Click to expand...

Well, it was actually just the only way I could think of to locate a connector on the PCB, with regards to the harness.
 
I was thinking a bit later about another solution that may even be possible with already existing boards: drill a couple of small holes holes in the pcb and use a Ty-rap to strain the wires to the pcb. This will take the mechanical load of the harness weight from the soldering(s) and to the Ty-raps.
 
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If a harness is removed, trimmed and re-stripped and then soldered back on, it should last a long long time. You "could" put the plug right on the deflection board and then make an extension to bridge the gap, but I am not sure it's worth the effort. You could also just group the holes together so someone can either use the original harness or solder a plug on the board. Personally, I have enough deflection boards for myself and probably would not need a new one, so satisfy your own wants, but I think messing with the harness could be more hassle than it's worth.
 
Would people prefer an alternative be built? Or original

So a re-designed smaller deflection board, with a heat-sink that is readily available

There is a lot of wasted space on the original

Or even a combo board, with HV and Deflection on the same chassis?

Time to speak up now, so the thread goes where you want it to go

??

:)
 
dezbaz said:
Would people prefer an alternative be built? Or original

So a re-designed smaller deflection board, with a heat-sink that is readily available

There is a lot of wasted space on the original

Or even a combo board, with HV and Deflection on the same chassis?

Time to speak up now, so the thread goes where you want it to go

??

:)
Click to expand...
Well....I won't actually be needing any. I've got a great working set-up now plus a spare HV and deflection board (that still need to be rebuild, but I've got everything for that).
Anyway, I can imagine a single board solution would be more cost effective. And for people wanting to build a vector from scratch, or replace bad boards, I'd say go with a "today technology" board. Any way to improve on the original design should be welcome.
 
dezbaz said:
Today I scored a green Deflection Board


I am about to start stripping it and scanning this

Does everyone agree the GREEN is the way to go?

:)
Click to expand...

I'm an amplifone newb. I hear the the MC (Mystery Can) is the part that fails and isn't replaceable. Does it really make sense to tepro the boards before someone reverse engineers and builds the MC? Anyone working on this?
 
Put me down for one as well. I'm still in for a full set of ALL repro Amplifone parts as I'm starting from nothing.
 
GaryMcT said:
I'm an amplifone newb. I hear the the MC (Mystery Can) is the part that fails and isn't replaceable. Does it really make sense to tepro the boards before someone reverse engineers and builds the MC? Anyone working on this?
Click to expand...

Hi Gary

Mystery can is done. In the other thread, we showed you pics. :)

:D
 
The green board is stripped completely and sanded back and cleaned
Ready for many weeks of tedious measuring



This project goes on hold as soon and the HV board Parts arrive
 
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Level42 said:
Highly suggested:

- incorporate the "in line" fuses that are suggested in the Amplifone FAQ on the PCB
- the hacked on Width and Height pots are a big annoyance, would be great to give them their own place on the PCB
- Not sure if possible but it would be great to have the BIG connector on the PCB instead of how it's now bungling on the wires. In essence, one of the wires is carrying the heaviest load. These solderings are always poor or the wires break of "just like that".
However, I'm not sure if there is enough length on the harness wiring to reach the PCB.
-two holes for the bridge wire between the two big resistors would be nice (instead of soldering them on the resistors) or even better, getting this on the solder side as a big track.(no idea how much current it has to handle?)
-a relay output that follows the spot killer LED so you can actually switch off power to the game all together when it kicks in. You could hang a buzzer (or siren !) on one of the contacts too so you WILL know something's wrong
- and of course the diode mod as suggested in the FAQ etc.
Click to expand...

Now that I have fully disassembled a whole board I see what you mean.

I think we could make this board double sided. All of the PCB Tracks which burn up, like around the Deflection Transistors could be doubled on the top as well, also there would be plenty of leeway to add the connector Andre speaks of.

One of my wires was snapped off. This phenomenon is called bird-caging, where the wire opens up like a bird cage and one strand at a time will break.

In the armed services I worked on Aeroplanes (Aussie word), we used to use anti wicking tweezers to prevent solder from drawing (Like a wick) up the wire when you tin the end. The wire would last much longer because it was more flexible near the PCB.

antiWick.jpg


I am guessing people have never heard of anti-wicking tweezers, so would not use them so a plug is a good idea.

If anyone is considering making the heatsink here's a pic.
All I can say is good luck :)


This is called a Deflection Tub :)
 
Plug possibility

Another thing

There are 14 wires soldered to the deflection board, what kind of plug should be added?

Maybe a 6 way plug on the left of the board and a 8 or 9 way board on the right
 
I recall seeing a 13" Amplifone Combo pic the other day in a thread (Combined HV and Deflection in 1)

Anyone remember who owned that? Need pics to get the layout

I would love to make combos one day too, for test benches etc.
 
dezbaz said:
I recall seeing a 13" Amplifone Combo pic the other day in a thread (Combined HV and Deflection in 1)

Anyone remember who owned that? Need pics to get the layout

I would love to make combos one day too, for test benches etc.
Click to expand...

The common pic(s) were from Ataricade.com, which appears to be down right now. I'll attach a saved copy of one.

A number of forum members own PAT9000's, among those that have publicly stated such are : Mark H., Nash (x2!), Mylstar, kiphartzell, Talon2000, and possibly komodo.

I would really like to see 13" Amplifone boards get reproduced. Go dez!
 

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GaryMcT said:
I'm an amplifone newb. I hear the the MC (Mystery Can) is the part that fails and isn't replaceable. Does it really make sense to tepro the boards before someone reverse engineers and builds the MC? Anyone working on this?
Click to expand...

Actually the "Mystery" can is not often failing. It's the HVT (or fly-back).

Read this...
http://gamearchive.askey.org/Video_...tari/monitors/amplifone/amplifone_faq_1_2.pdf
....and you won't be an Amplifone newbie anymore :)


Dez: Impressive looking that naked board :) Could be the ultimate "restoration" of an Amp board ;)

Just another weird thought: Ever since replacing these big fat resistors on the HV board I've had a healthy hate against them, those cooking things....
Could we do a similar trick with the TO-220 resistors on the deflection board and get rid of the two huge "power" resistors ? The TO-220 could be mounted (in theory) to the heat-sink or maybe two separate one's.

Could be hard to trace, but since you plan doing double sided....
 
Level42 said:
Actually the "Mystery" can is not often failing. It's the HVT (or fly-back).

Read this...
http://gamearchive.askey.org/Video_...tari/monitors/amplifone/amplifone_faq_1_2.pdf
....and you won't be an Amplifone newbie anymore :)


Dez: Impressive looking that naked board :) Could be the ultimate "restoration" of an Amp board ;)

Just another weird thought: Ever since replacing these big fat resistors on the HV board I've had a healthy hate against them, those cooking things....
Could we do a similar trick with the TO-220 resistors on the deflection board and get rid of the two huge "power" resistors ? The TO-220 could be mounted (in theory) to the heat-sink or maybe two separate one's.

Could be hard to trace, but since you plan doing double sided....
Click to expand...

Them 2 HUGE resistors (R6 & R29) are 10W, so the TO-220s would work well, as they are 30W. Good idea.

I have read that link before, but still am learning, nothing like disassembling a whole board to learn a lot.

I learned that solder pads might look good, but are in fact detached from the board too - held down by solder
Via.jpg


I would bet most old deflection boards would suffer from this once the deflection transistors have been replaced a few times.

I think the pads there need via's (The little metal tubes joining top to bottom) The via will hold the track down on both sides
 
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