Next PCB . . Amplifone Deflection Boards (Bare PCB) Color Vectors

dezbaz

Well-known member

Donor 4 years: 2011, 2013-2014, 2016
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
8,889
Reaction score
529
Location
Ballajura, Western Australia, Australia
Next PCB . . Amplifone Deflection Boards (Bare PCB) Color Vectors

Discussion thread for the Amplifone Deflection Bare PCB (DEFINITELY ONLY THE BARE PCB THIS TIME GUYS)

I had a mishap on the weekend and had to fit a spare Deflection board into the star wars game.
I looked at the spare board I had that was in Star Wars when I bought it, and it was about as bad as it gets. (Hacked and burnt etc)
So I decided I need to make the bare PCB so I can have a few working spares

Anyone likely to want one also?
I need to know: Numbers and Issues I might need to know about with the Deflection board (Things that can be improved)

I noticed there are different revisions (Like the HV)
One of my boards (Blue) has no diodes, while the beige one has the back to back diode and a few more 1N4001's also
So positions would need to be made for them in the repro design

So I invite comments and likely numbers

Jump onboard if you want :)

edit: I acquired a green board on 18Sep2011, that will be the one to repro


List so far

Me 6
joeycuda 1
Tronic 2
bheineck 2
SeaWolf 1
Gibo 2
hereitcomes 4
GaryMcT 2
kspiff 1
Level42 1
speleo_de 3
djw90 2
joeycuda 2
Gump79 1
HI25 1

TOTAL: 31
 
Last edited:
Highly suggested:

- incorporate the "in line" fuses that are suggested in the Amplifone FAQ on the PCB
- the hacked on Width and Height pots are a big annoyance, would be great to give them their own place on the PCB
- Not sure if possible but it would be great to have the BIG connector on the PCB instead of how it's now bungling on the wires. In essence, one of the wires is carrying the heaviest load. These solderings are always poor or the wires break of "just like that".
However, I'm not sure if there is enough length on the harness wiring to reach the PCB.
-two holes for the bridge wire between the two big resistors would be nice (instead of soldering them on the resistors) or even better, getting this on the solder side as a big track.(no idea how much current it has to handle?)
-a relay output that follows the spot killer LED so you can actually switch off power to the game all together when it kicks in. You could hang a buzzer (or siren !) on one of the contacts too so you WILL know something's wrong
- and of course the diode mod as suggested in the FAQ etc.
 
Highly suggested:

- incorporate the "in line" fuses that are suggested in the Amplifone FAQ on the PCB
- the hacked on Width and Height pots are a big annoyance, would be great to give them their own place on the PCB
- Not sure if possible but it would be great to have the BIG connector on the PCB instead of how it's now bungling on the wires. In essence, one of the wires is carrying the heaviest load. These solderings are always poor or the wires break of "just like that".
However, I'm not sure if there is enough length on the harness wiring to reach the PCB.
-two holes for the bridge wire between the two big resistors would be nice (instead of soldering them on the resistors) or even better, getting this on the solder side as a big track.(no idea how much current it has to handle?)
-a relay output that follows the spot killer LED so you can actually switch off power to the game all together when it kicks in. You could hang a buzzer (or siren !) on one of the contacts too so you WILL know something's wrong
- and of course the diode mod as suggested in the FAQ etc.

Great response Andre, Cheers :)

I will find info on all of this.

The fuses you speak about adding: are they in series with the deflection yokes?

Diagram here
http://www.dsbelec.iinet.net.au/Amplifone_Deflection_PCB_Schematic.jpg
 
Thanks :)

No they're supposed to go in the "power supply" voltage lines to the deflection PCB.
Honestly, I never installed them. But if you're going to "recreate" the deflection PCB anyway....no harm in including them. It's well docced in the Amplifone FAQ.
 
Highly suggested:

- incorporate the "in line" fuses that are suggested in the Amplifone FAQ on the PCB
- the hacked on Width and Height pots are a big annoyance, would be great to give them their own place on the PCB
- Not sure if possible but it would be great to have the BIG connector on the PCB instead of how it's now bungling on the wires. In essence, one of the wires is carrying the heaviest load. These solderings are always poor or the wires break of "just like that".
However, I'm not sure if there is enough length on the harness wiring to reach the PCB.
-two holes for the bridge wire between the two big resistors would be nice (instead of soldering them on the resistors) or even better, getting this on the solder side as a big track.(no idea how much current it has to handle?)
-a relay output that follows the spot killer LED so you can actually switch off power to the game all together when it kicks in. You could hang a buzzer (or siren !) on one of the contacts too so you WILL know something's wrong
- and of course the diode mod as suggested in the FAQ etc.

Whatever connector is at the end of the deflection board harness (12? 15 pin?), you could put a female connector directly on the PCB, like on an MCR p/s board. Then.. for the harness, you'd have a connector on each end. The strain would then be on the connector, not the unevenness of hanging off of the board like it does. However, that would look pretty different and most I would think would prefer a near exact replacement board.
 
Whatever connector is at the end of the deflection board harness (12? 15 pin?), you could put a female connector directly on the PCB, like on an MCR p/s board. Then.. for the harness, you'd have a connector on each end. The strain would then be on the connector, not the unevenness of hanging off of the board like it does. However, that would look pretty different and most I would think would prefer a near exact replacement board.

So like this ?

mcr-ps-adapter.jpg


The HV already plugs into the 9 pin board mounted socket

The trouble with having a board mounted 15 pin connector, is the cabinet harness may not reach, as you lose about a foot from the defl. board harness

Is there another way to overcome the problem.
Larger gauge wires
Heatshrink over the pin (The one that breaks)
Hot glue gun the connector ??

Any other ways?
 
The trouble with having a board mounted 15 pin connector, is the cabinet harness may not reach, as you lose about a foot from the defl. board harness

Is there another way to overcome the problem.
Larger gauge wires
Heatshrink over the pin (The one that breaks)
Hot glue gun the connector ??

Any other ways?

I like this, reminds me of when I was a R&D engineer. At least you guys reproducing parts get to see this side of things.

Questions like
:what haven't I thought of yet...
:where do I draw the line on improvements and get this thing produced...

we used to have to do a "life test" on new boards to see how long they would last or what would get hot and fail first. It would take months and we still knew we would run into problems that we hadn't thought of once production began.
 
I like this, reminds me of when I was a R&D engineer. At least you guys reproducing parts get to see this side of things.

Questions like
:what haven't I thought of yet...
:where do I draw the line on improvements and get this thing produced...

we used to have to do a "life test" on new boards to see how long they would last or what would get hot and fail first. It would take months and we still knew we would run into problems that we hadn't thought of once production began.

Ok good point :D

I have not drawn a single dot on the program yet. It would be wise to gather info first from the guys repairing them more than me

There are some good ideas so for
 
-two holes for the bridge wire between the two big resistors would be nice (instead of soldering them on the resistors) or even better, getting this on the solder side as a big track.(no idea how much current it has to handle?)
-

I was thinking a double sided board (IE: Tracks on the top as well) with just the wire links and that resistor wire on the top of the board
So, the tracks replace the links and wire
 
So like this ?

mcr-ps-adapter.jpg


The HV already plugs into the 9 pin board mounted socket

The trouble with having a board mounted 15 pin connector, is the cabinet harness may not reach, as you lose about a foot from the defl. board harness

Is there another way to overcome the problem.
Larger gauge wires
Heatshrink over the pin (The one that breaks)
Hot glue gun the connector ??

Any other ways?

Like I tried to describe, there would be a sort of extension cable between the connector on the PCB and where it would connect to cabinet harness..same length of wiring essentially
 
Like I tried to describe, there would be a sort of extension cable between the connector on the PCB and where it would connect to cabinet harness..same length of wiring essentially

I get it now, the purpose of doing this would save having to pull apart the 15 pin (floating) plug hardly ever, - Yes?
 
Back
Top Bottom