vicjw66
New member
Hard to tell but it looks missing. I don't suppose you have a meter handy. I get no continuity between the two points. Thanks
-
Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Newest Project: Spy Hunter
- Thread starter FrizzleFried
- Start date
This is weird. Someone needs to explain this to me.
When I set my DMM on 200 ohm and probe I get a quick reading which then turns to 'no continuity'. When I switch my DMM to diode and probe then I get a continuity reading of about 1460. When I reverse the leads and on either setting then I don't get any continuity. Does that make sense? It seems as if a diode is in the circuit somewhere?
And now I must put it away again and get some sleep.
When I set my DMM on 200 ohm and probe I get a quick reading which then turns to 'no continuity'. When I switch my DMM to diode and probe then I get a continuity reading of about 1460. When I reverse the leads and on either setting then I don't get any continuity. Does that make sense? It seems as if a diode is in the circuit somewhere?
And now I must put it away again and get some sleep.
Last edited:
vicjw66
New member
Well tomorrow when I'll add the jumper jw3, connect a ground strap and we'll see what happens.
OP
OP
Welp, I replaced the both the 10uf 16v and 4700uf 25v caps as suggested... the popping continues unaffected. If I unplug the lamp driver board the sound has less "hum" and the popping (of course) stops completely... but then I get no lamps. The pop sounds very similar to when you plug a mic in to a stereo that's already powered up... when a lamp is active, you can even remove the bulb, and plug it back in and get the pop... it's FOR SURE being caused by the lamps coming on and then turning off... the more lamps that come on, the louder the pop... for instance when a game first starts, the machine gun lamp and the lamp on the steering wheel flash... each flash gets a much louder "pop" than when, for instance, the oil slick lamp turns on...
Now, I did notice the 2.2 1w resistor at R19 looks to be in bad shape... the ceramic coating is all but missing in the middle and the metal under it is exposed. The problem is the local rat-shack doesn't carry but a couple 1w resisters... and none come close to a 2.2... but then again, I really don't know jack-shit about resisters or what a suitable replacement is.
Any suggestions? It's GOTTA be that resister...huh?
EDIT: BTW - Like a CAP where you can go up on the voltage side without worry, can you do the same on the WATTAGE side of a resister? For example, could I use a 2.2ohm 2w or 2.2ohm 10w resistor?
Last edited:
OP
OP
Here is a video showing the pop issue... turn up the audio a bit and you'll also notice the additional audio distortion/"buzz" when the lamp is lit.... this happens for all lights except the marquee lamp...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAzBpOi45ew
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAzBpOi45ew
VectorJunkie
Well-known member
Yeah, you can go with a larger wattage resistor of the same resistance value.
OP
OP
OK... I got a new POT for the accelerator... but perhaps someone can explain to me just how in the heck I get the small gear off the old pot? There appears to be a tiny set screw of some sort, but it's SMALL... so small a set of eyeglass screw drivers is too large to fit it... also, it appears that there is a hole in the shaft and I can't tell if the "set screw" thing goes all the way through or not? I suppose I am going to have to drill a hole in the shaft of the new POT?
Help!
EDIT: Well, I read on here that it's a "pin" (hollow??) and that it need to be punched out. I just tried like hell to punch it out... it ain't coming out. I wacked on that bastard with a hammer and a punch and it didn't budge... at all... period... not even a hair.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Oh...and FYI... I got a new resistor for the Lamp board... the other one measured 1.8ohms when it was supposed to be 2.2... no help (as expected because of the fact the 12v lamp in the coin door does the same thing and it's not driven by the lamp driver board).
Help!
EDIT: Well, I read on here that it's a "pin" (hollow??) and that it need to be punched out. I just tried like hell to punch it out... it ain't coming out. I wacked on that bastard with a hammer and a punch and it didn't budge... at all... period... not even a hair.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
Oh...and FYI... I got a new resistor for the Lamp board... the other one measured 1.8ohms when it was supposed to be 2.2... no help (as expected because of the fact the 12v lamp in the coin door does the same thing and it's not driven by the lamp driver board).
Last edited:
Frizz,
Yes, you'll have to clamp the new pot by the end of the shaft and drill a hole in exactly the same position on the new pot shaft.
I had a similar problem with mine when attemping to take the pin out with the punch. IIRC, All I had to do was reposition the gear so that it was sitting as flat as possible on a wooden surface (I think I used a scrap of wood) and the pin tapped right out.
Yes, you'll have to clamp the new pot by the end of the shaft and drill a hole in exactly the same position on the new pot shaft.
I had a similar problem with mine when attemping to take the pin out with the punch. IIRC, All I had to do was reposition the gear so that it was sitting as flat as possible on a wooden surface (I think I used a scrap of wood) and the pin tapped right out.
OP
OP
Oh I tapped alright... I tapped and tapped then whacked...and whacked... then hammered like a mo-fo... ultimately it took me drilling the bastard out.
Now I get to drill out the new shaft (after measuring) and then finding something I can use for a pin. Fun.
Hell... I may just JB Weld the bastard in to place... if the last one lasted 25 years with a ton of arcade use, this one will last a lifetime.
Now I get to drill out the new shaft (after measuring) and then finding something I can use for a pin. Fun.
Hell... I may just JB Weld the bastard in to place... if the last one lasted 25 years with a ton of arcade use, this one will last a lifetime.
Mine was sitting on the concrete floor of my garage when I started and I couldn't get the SOB out no matter what I did.
When I put a piece of wood under it, it came out pretty quickly. Still not entirely sure why it worked so well but it did. I think maybe cdjump suggested that.
When I put a piece of wood under it, it came out pretty quickly. Still not entirely sure why it worked so well but it did. I think maybe cdjump suggested that.
OP
OP
Alright... I got the new pot installed. I ended up drilling a small "dimple" in the shaft and simply screwing in a set screw. Works great and it's removable. Now, I noticed that I could now go from 00 to 23... but after doing some adjustments I have it set up to go from 00 to 1F... works great.
One quick question... the "turbo flames" only come on for a brief 1 or 2 seconds then go off but I can hear the engine sound increasing in pitch so I think that's normal, right?
One quick question... the "turbo flames" only come on for a brief 1 or 2 seconds then go off but I can hear the engine sound increasing in pitch so I think that's normal, right?
Friz, what you describe is normal.
But I'd suggest adjusting it so you get at *least* 20h at the top.
1F is good but 20h or even 21h is better. The game is supposed to have that top end speed.
You're gonna LOVE driving that car the way its supposed to be!
But I'd suggest adjusting it so you get at *least* 20h at the top.
1F is good but 20h or even 21h is better. The game is supposed to have that top end speed.
You're gonna LOVE driving that car the way its supposed to be!
i think your supposed to set the accelerator to read 0b when not being pressed. It tells you on the pot calibration page for sure.
I never had any luck in the pot calibration screen. Every time I did what it told me to do I could never get it working correctly.
It wasn't until I ignored it and just used the user input screen that I was able to get things working properly.
