Newest Project: Spy Hunter

I had a Vision Pro working in my Spy Hunter without any sync issues at all.

I didn't like how the VP acted in some cases with the game but I never encountered any sync issues with it.

I ended up putting the original G07 back in the game and it works perfectly. BTW, I've been told that there were several models of "original monitors" and the G07 was just one. One of the WG models was original as well.

It's a great game and well worth the trouble of fixing it up.

BTW, switchers suck in Spy Hunters... I'm definitely a linear power board fan myself.
 
I had a Spy Hunter a long time ago and i am pretty sure it had a G07 in it. Did you see that yet another Spy Hunter came up on CL tonight Frizz ?
 
I did Dave...none come up for it seems like ages then 2 in less than a week.

Both 1 city away (in each direction).
 
cleverlyj said:
your garage is heated, right jon? at that point all you need is a cradle and whatever puts jj to sleep (edit, if it's a breast, then yr fucked. bingo, arcade game time.
Click to expand...

I'd have to heat the garage quite a bit more. I keep it around 55-60... for the baby to be in there i'd have to heat it to at least 68...
 
After seeing the pics of the inside of the cab I realized that I am missing at least one grounding wire in mine. Maybe this is what caused some of my problems. I'll have to study the wiring diagram closely.
 
Regarding original monitors....every Spy Hunter I've been inside of.....has had a WG 4900. With that said, the manual has schematics for the WG4900 and the Electrohome G07.

Edward
 
Well lookee here...

SH_NEWMONITOR1.jpg


I have absolutely NO idea what I did... all I know is I moved my Pole Position cab over to see if the monitor in it would work... no such luck...same types of issues... could not get it to sync...

I then pulled the connector out from the PCB side... I re-plugged it back in, but moved it over to the K7300 that I tried yesterday (or was it the day before?). When I fired it up I noticed I could barely see the image, but it was stable... I dinked around trying to figure out why I could barely see the image, then I noticed I was off by one pin on the PCB side... I reconnected as normal and when I checked the monitor out... IT WAS STABLE?!? I did some geometry adjustments and it looks like it does above...

I messed with the H-Frequency and the strangest thing... it's ROCK STABLE all the way through the entire pot...max to min...it moves the image left and right (while sitting horizontally) but I can't even de-sync the image if I tried?!?

I really have no idea WTF I did... all I can come up with is that the PCB side connector was hanging on by a thread or something. Not sure... but the image looks identical as it did before on the monitor currently in the cab...so no difference there... but the K7300 now looks pretty decent. I notice the white portions of the image (text, etc) seem to have a slight "vibration" or "jitter"... not terrible though...

Whatever... I won't be looking a gift-horse in the mouth though.
 
Oxidation or dirt on the cable on the PCB side?

Can't think of what else it might be.

If it ever acts up again you might want to spray some deoxit in the cable connector and plug and unplug it several times.
 
ArcRevival said:
Cool. That thing will bolt right in too. Looks good. Glad that monitor ended up being useful to you.
Click to expand...

Actually, the SH has a vertical mounted frame... i think if I use the horizontal frame a part would stick out... so it looks like I will have to do a frame swap.

Can anyone confirm or debunk this?
 
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FrizzleFried said:
Actually, the SH has a vertical mounted frame... i think if I use the horizontal frame a part would stick out... so it looks like I will have to do a frame swap.

Can anyone confirm or debunk this?
Click to expand...

Yep, confirm.....you need to do a frame swap. Also, the slight jitter of the text seems to be normal. All the Spy Hunters I've ever had....and all the ones I've ever worked on...have all done this. Normal, as in it's almost not noticeable (some people probably wouldn't even notice it, if not pointed out to them).

Edward
 
Thanks for the confirmation.... it looked like the horizontal frame corner would stick out up top... and thanks for the confirmation on the white objects/text... yes, the jitter is very subtle but I'm anal and noticed it right away... :)

Now, I have the switcher converter on the board...which has that 3.6 (or is it 3.8) volt battery included... I assume it's self-charging... which means if it sits, it slowly discharges... could I leave the machine plugged and running for for a while to re-charge it?
 
FrizzleFried said:
Now, I have the switcher converter on the board...which has that 3.6 (or is it 3.8) volt battery included... I assume it's self-charging... which means if it sits, it slowly discharges... could I leave the machine plugged and running for for a while to re-charge it?
Click to expand...

While the machine is running, the battery will recharge. Now, if the battery has been setting un-juiced for an extended period of time (after, previously being juiced).....sometimes they'll refuse to hold a charge.

Edward
 
Is there a better option available? A NVRAM mod that can be done perhaps? I figure if the batter is like most phone batteries, it will discharge in a month or two of non-use... that's pretty shitty considering we're talking about a home game room where some games don't get much love for 30-60 day cycles (depending on the game). If there IS an NVROM mod I could do, anyone know the specifics of how it's done?
 
FrizzleFried said:
Is there a better option available? A NVRAM mod that can be done perhaps? I figure if the batter is like most phone batteries, it will discharge in a month or two of non-use... that's pretty shitty considering we're talking about a home game room where some games don't get much love for 30-60 day cycles (depending on the game). If there IS an NVROM mod I could do, anyone know the specifics of how it's done?
Click to expand...

Yep, It's just like a phone battery. People on here have talked about doing NVRAM mods....though, I can't recall who.

Edward
 
O.k. So I never realized the grounding strap connected to the cheap squeak. (thanks for posting the pic frizz)It wasn't in the wiring diagram and some previous owner took it out completely along with the one to the coin door. On my cheap squeak I noticed the jumper wire JW3 that connects logic ground to analog ground is missing. Can anyone confirm on their cheap squeak whether they have the jumper there. It is located near the J2 connector. Thanks. I would definitly replace a plug that didn't have all 3 prongs.
 
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Vic,

Please see attached. I happened to have a spare CSD board for my Spy Hunter and pulled it out of storage and took a high res picture of the portion of the board that you're asking about.

It looks like there is a trace there.

I hope this helps.
 

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