Newbie: What is this thing that looks like a battery?

zancheska

New member
Joined
Jan 29, 2018
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Carnegie, Pennsylvania
Newbie: What is this thing that looks like a battery?

Hi! I just picked up my Cruis'n USA yesterday and moved it in uhaul solo! It is in my garage but it was playing blind after the move. It played fine when I bought it. I found this thing in the bottom of the machine, did some research, and determined that I have a WG U5000 monitor board and this thing fell off of it.

Funny story, I found it and thought it was a spare somehow. <sigh>

Anywho, the issue seems to have been fixed by placing this battery looking thing in the correct place, according to the WG U5000 diagram I found on this site. However, it is just sitting there, could fall off at any time. I don't think that is the proper way it should be attached. So, what is this called, where do I buy one, and how do I attach it?

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180211_192824.jpg
    IMG_20180211_192824.jpg
    508.9 KB · Views: 129
That there appears to be a filter capacitor for your video chassis. Readily available and very necessary! I buy mine at arcadepartsandrepair.com. It must be soldered in. Oh, and watch how you handle it. If you put your fingers across its terminals fresh off a hot monitor, you'll get an early lesson on what 400 volts feels like.
 
Last edited:
a u5000 doesn't use that filter cap. the u5000 uses 270uf 400v filter capacitor.

BTW: if that came off your working chassis there is no way your chassis would even power up with HV.

more than likely its old junk.
 
Update

This is for sure the board I have. I found that part in the bottom of my machine and determined that the monitor was not getting power, the machine was playing blind.

I looked at this diagram, realized where that part should go, placed it on the board in it's rightful spot and the monitor came on. Therefore, it is not old junk. It needs to go there and I am sure that it shouldn't just be sitting there able to be removed or move during transit. I assume it should be soldered to the board, correct?

Also, it says is a 400v 330uf, is that the correct one?
 
Last edited:
This is for sure the board I have. I found that part in the bottom of my machine and determined that the monitor was not getting power, the machine was playing blind.

I looked at this diagram, realized where that part should go, placed it on the board in it's rightful spot and the monitor came on. Therefore, it is not old junk. It needs to go there and I am sure that it shouldn't just be sitting there able to be removed or move during transit. I assume it should be soldered to the board, correct?

Also, it says is a 400v 330uf, is that the correct one?

yes soldered. 270uf 400v is the correct one for a u5000 chassis.
 
How is it working with the wrong one? What is the difference between 270 and 330? What do the numbers even mean? I apologize if I am asking so many questions. I just picked up this machine on Saturday so trying to take a crash course.
 
How is it working with the wrong one? What is the difference between 270 and 330? What do the numbers even mean? I apologize if I am asking so many questions. I just picked up this machine on Saturday so trying to take a crash course.

they are +-20% on most electrolytic capacitors so its not the correct one but its not going to wreak anything to put it in if it tests good with capacitance and ESR, but its always best to put the correct value which is the 270uf 400v

This item is sold out on arcadepartsandrepair.com, any idea when it may be in stock?

unfortunately not until next month.
 
they are +-20% on most electrolytic capacitors so its not the correct one but its not going to wreak anything to put it in if it tests good with capacitance and ESR, but its always best to put the correct value which is the 270uf 400v

This is a filter cap, right? "Correct" is not that clear cut. The design may have originally called out 270uF, but that could have been for cost reasons. A 330uF may actually be the superior choice here. Point is, the value is not that critical... anything in that ballpark is fine.
 
These caps are just as easy to check for charge as a 9 volt battery. Just lick it to test it.

Damn you!!!

39169p.jpg
 
It was a U2000 monitor and this was the filter cap that was in it. I pulled the monitor and could see that the filter cap was never properly soldered on as there was really not even any solder on the leads of the cap. Soldered in the cap and got nothing. I removed the entire monitor and took it home with me. I removed the old solder and resoldered it in place and also replaced the blown 3A chassis fuse. Monitor fired up but was having problems with no green. Went over all of the previous work done and found the joints on the green drive transistor were cold. I removed all of the old solder on all of the drive transistors, resoldered those and now the monitor appears to be working properly.
 
Back
Top Bottom