Newbie - Problem with System 1 - Cleopatra SS

[splattergatz]

the leg on the 7417 looks like it has corrosion on it. nice job on the socketting but that corrosion doesnt look good and it looks like it goes up into the chip.

some of the traces look like they are slightly oxidizing too raising resistance and inhibiting proper electron flow.

i have about 30 non-working sys 1 CPU's here all with various non-working problems. some the outhole wont eject a ball and many theres no sound. some wont boot at all and some cant keep track of anything hardly. those spider chips can fail in all kinds of ways.

a logic probe would tell you if you have an output on the proper pin to make the solenoid work. cant remeber if your outhole worked at all but if it didnt, try jumpering voltage to see if your solenoid is kaput.

buy a pin crimping tool. even if you buy a new CPU, you MUST replace the pins inside those connectors. the question is did the corrosion get down into the wires or not.

its amazing how much work just a simple task is...

 

[vbtalent]

Your picture of the cpu board battery shows some battery corrosion on the board near the connectors. And WTF is up with those wires _soldered_ to the edge connector?

Yeah, a butcher who owned/abused it last... not sure if I can fix it but I'm going to try.

Well I finally got the outhole working!!! It was at A1/J7 Pin1 I pulled the connector on the CPU board and lightly sanded the contacts, sweet!

OK, so on my project list is replacement of all the connector pins, an external battery and some power supply maintenance (I may just buy a new one).

A couple of other general maintenance questions mainly directed at oxidation and how to remove and repair, if you guys don't mind.

Anyone have a link to some cleaning and repair instructions for oxidation? I'm a little concerned about the oxidation going on at the 7417 chips, very odd?

When it comes to buying wire for general wiring purposes are there any preferences or suggestions?

Lastly, when it comes to refinishing the playing surface - any how-to's around for that?

I certainly couldn't have done this without your help and greatly appreciate all the responses and input, many thanks!!

 

[vbtalent]

I wanted to post a follow up with some pics in case anyone was interested in the progress..

I'm still having one problem, the credits are still jumbled, any ideas?

I realize that Cleopatra isn't as flashy as some of the newer pins but I was wondering what everyone's thoughts were on restoring the play field, is it worth the effort? (see pics)

 

[vbtalent]

additional pics...

 

[splattergatz]

you can take a black sharpie pen to some of those defects. the others you can buy a nine dollar kids paint kit from wall mart and touch up some of the other areas as well. i like to paint my so called "matched" color onto a clear mylar sheet and hold it next to the playfield color to see how well it matches. i also take those pop bumpers off and retouch that area too. will hardly be able to tell its touched up under there, if you can even kinda match it.

me? i like to clearcoat playfields. its time consuming but well worth the effort. just like painting a car but easier.

just buy a new CPU and be done with it. dont try buying any used ones on ebay.

 

[vbtalent]

you can take a black sharpie pen to some of those defects. the others you can buy a nine dollar kids paint kit from wall mart and touch up some of the other areas as well. i like to paint my so called "matched" color onto a clear mylar sheet and hold it next to the playfield color to see how well it matches. i also take those pop bumpers off and retouch that area too. will hardly be able to tell its touched up under there, if you can even kinda match it.

me? i like to clearcoat playfields. its time consuming but well worth the effort. just like painting a car but easier.

just buy a new CPU and be done with it. dont try buying any used ones on ebay.

Thanks for the reply splattergatz.

The playfield I think is actually in very good condition its dirty but most of the paint is in tact. I do notice that there is a lot of unevenness when the ball is rolling around slowly. I'm certainly interested in refinishing as I think it would be a good first project.

Do I need to strip the entire back of the game to do the refinish or basically strip down what I don't want over spray on?

In front of the flippers there are some slight groves that need to be fixed how do you fill or hide those marks since it is a wood area?

What products are people using for cleaning and clear coating?

Thanks,

 

[splattergatz]

over spray on.....slight groves that need to be fixed how do you fill or hide those marks since it is a wood area?

What products are people using for cleaning and clear coating?

over spray? first you need to clean the playfield. then touch it up. i clean with magic eraser and simple green with a water wipe to neutralize the simple green.

clearcoat, i use a DUPONT product. a body shop supply store will steer you in the right direction. you will need wrap around glasses and breathing mask as the vapors create an isocyanate gas which you DO NOT want on your eyes or in your lungs. i use a hvlp gun and i use corks and custom made covers to keep the clear from getting into the holes and gumming up the switches and light sockets etc. then sand the playfield with 1600+ sandpaper to give the clear something to hold onto. you might be able to shoot it with a few cans of clear from KRYLON but some of that isnt clear, its a hazy coat so test first. the clear will fill in scrapes so really not much you can do there but when its done OH MY! looks like its new from the factory. you will have to take most items off playfield and none from underneath so its not that big of a project. definately worth it. heres a bad photo of my last SINBAD i clearcoated.
you have to be careful of the black sharpie pens as they react to the clearcoat as you can barely see in the photo.

 

[Lindsey]

you have to be careful of the black sharpie pens as they react to the clearcoat as you can barely see in the photo.

Barely?

I wouldn't use sharpie at all if you're planning to use automotive clear. Once the ink runs under the clear you've basically destroyed the playfield. It would be extremely difficult to fix something like that.

 

[vbtalent]

Yes, over spray from shooting clear from a spray gun.. I realize hvlp guns use lower pressure but there's still over spray.

"i use corks and custom made covers to keep the clear from getting into the holes and gumming up the switches and light sockets etc."

What do you mean by using corks and covers? Do you have some examples that I could see?

So you lightly sand the playfield before clearing - interesting.

If there's a possibility of a sharpie running its probably not a good idea for me to use it.. I assume that means paint only then - are there some better paints than others when using clear?

Thanks,

 

[splattergatz]

What do you mean by using corks and covers?

If there's a possibility of a sharpie running its probably not a good idea for me to use it.. I assume that means paint only then - are there some better paints than others when using clear?

when you take most of the items off the playfield, it will be self evident what i mean. you dont want the clear running down the holes/slots and into/onto the sockets, switches and everything else underneath there.

ive found that the sharpie only reacts under certain circumstances. not every sharpie mark reacts to the clear. only the black so far. very few of the acrylic colors react also. i think the blue on the COUNTDOWN rocket did react funny...but who cares? to me its not that big of a deal. it preserves the playfield for a very long time and think about all the people who never wax their playfields and how does that look. tell me which is worse. i would waaaay rather have a couple of wisps of black that you can barely see and the playfield preserved till aftermarkets ones are produced, than ugly spots of bare wood all over the place...
i wonder if the sharpie reacts when i spray too close. not sure really. anyway i highly recommend clearcoating. it makes the playfield look like it just came out of the factory. it comes out soooo beautiful that your heart will skip a pump.

if you PM me when you are getting ready to do it i will be happy to type out all my tricks so you get the best results. PM me and ill PM you my number so you can call me if you want.

 

[Burt6666]

Just so long as the clear coat doesn't inhibit proper electron flow.... JK.

 

[splattergatz]

Just so long as the clear coat doesn't inhibit proper electron flow.... JK.

yes! you are gettin' it, gettin' it, gettin' it, yea! (finger snapos!)

 

[splattergatz]

and probably won't be attempting this until Spring gets here and I can get outside and spray.

Marvin suggests PPG's Omni AU MC161 what are your thoughts?

hes way smarter than me. just be careful as the clear coat i use you MUST wear wraparound goggles and a breathing mask with organic filters. that isocyanate gas will attract to your eyes like nuthin' i ever saw. bad stuff. i think you could get away with the rustoleum stuff(clear) if you did it on a windy day but then you gotta be careful of crap in the air.
i buy big corks for the big holes and small corks for the bulb holes etc. i invent covers out of paper and tape for the slots and drop target slots...you will see.
if you PM me in the spring i can go out and jot down the number of the DUPONT product that i use. i use the automotive clear because its so tough and lasts so long. just think how much of a beating the clear on the cars get and how long it lasts...

 

[vbtalent]

Does any know what the replacement rubber parts are for a Cleopatra? how can I find that out?

Also, I see there are different size balls... what's recommended, size, etc.?

Thanks,

 

[Burt6666]

1 1/16" balls....rubber kit from pinball resource.

 

[shardian]

Does any know what the replacement rubber parts are for a Cleopatra? how can I find that out?

Also, I see there are different size balls... what's recommended, size, etc.?

Thanks,

PB Resource specializes in Gottlieb machines. You call them up, tell them what machine you have, and then you don't even need to worry about part #'s. You just literally tell them what you want.

 

[vbtalent]

Thanks guys.

I've been perusing the the "For Sale" forum and got to say, Wow! does that stuff go fast - Ebay doesn't hold a candle to it... anyone in the Louisville area that's reputable that you know of?