I know, I was just saying. All good.I assumed playing blind simply meant you can play the game with no video output. Didnt know it mattered whether or not the monitor illuminated or not. It aint that serious man. Lol
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I know, I was just saying. All good.I assumed playing blind simply meant you can play the game with no video output. Didnt know it mattered whether or not the monitor illuminated or not. It aint that serious man. Lol
I'm agreeing with you. The phosphor also tends to be missing in a star pattern on the face of the CRT. I don't see that in your picture.Wayment. If the tube was necked, you'd have no image and "lightning" inside the neck, assuming it wasn't a complete break. Do you have lightning in the neck? A total break would produce no image at all as you'd have a total loss of vacuum. The fact that you have an image with raster lines makes me severely doubt the tube is necked. Pretty sure that's an incorrect diagnosis.
Ok. Now that we know there are mangled and broken pins on the CRT that explains what's going on, we can move forward. Thanks. You CAN repair the broken pin(s), but epoxying them in place is not the solution. You need to scrape away the glass around the broken pin nub to expose what's left of the pin, being careful not to remove so much that you cause the tube to lose vacuum, remove the coating on the nub to allow solder to stick to it, solder a wire to the nub, reconnect the neck board, and solder the other end of the wire to the corresponding socket pad on the back of the neckboard. If that's too much trouble, it's LCD time.Hi everyone, I'm Sean the tech that helped out 911fanatic. I see the confusion here. It being "necked" isn't in the traditional sense of the term. The glass tube is in tacked, and no their is no lighting. However, the issue(s) I'm seeing (I've personally never had/seen this issue before) is that the connector for the neck board is very damaged. The plastic housing used to key the board is mostly missing and someone has previously used some sealant to keep everything in place. One pin was completely bent out of place, and wasn't making connection at all with the neck board. That pin also feels as if it's free floating. As in it's not connected to anything internally and is being held in place by the sealant. Some wires were pulled from the board and I had to re solder them back in but no change. And many wired where cut and taped to this monitor has seen some better days unfortunately. I'm aware that other issues in the board are also possible but I'm very suspect of that pin.
Full disclosure and slight background of myself for anyone with questions (which understandably their is) I'm 25, been working on electronics sense I was 10 and arcades specifically for 7 years now. Fell in love with working on them specifically, then I enlisted and near the tail end of my contract I decided I wanted to do it for a living as well as own an arcade for people to enjoy themselves.
I have a 100% customer satisfaction rate and I'm proud of that. Definitely don't want 911fanatic to be my first bad review or anyone in that matter.
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, I'm am very much aware that I'm not the best tech in the world. I only have 7 years experience vs some of y'all who have been in this sense these machine where new. With that being said, I'm not afraid to admit I'm wrong or messed up so any advice is much appreciated. I would love to help 911fanatic get this awesome racer up and racing! No question is off limits for me cause I love my job and want to do it right no matter what. Feel free to ask me any questions or comments. DM is preferred cause I don't want to take the attention from the purpose of the post.
Thank you all very much, and I hope y'all have some great advice for me too help keep these up and running for years to come!
P.S. Sorry for the long post but 911fanatic said that he was getting a lot of concerns and I wanted to come in and make sure everyone is on the same page and answer any questions and potential questions. Thank you for your time.
Sweet, thanks for that input. 911 wants to go ahead and do the LCD swap and I might be getting that CRT from him. If so, definitely gonna try that method out and see what happens. Thanks!Ok. Now that we know there are mangled and broken pins on the CRT that explains what's going on, we can move forward. Thanks. You CAN repair the broken pin(s), but epoxying them in place is not the solution. You need to scrape away the glass around the broken pin nub to expose what's left of the pin, being careful not to remove so much that you cause the tube to lose vacuum, remove the coating on the nub to allow solder to stick to it, solder a wire to the nub, reconnect the neck board, and solder the other end of the wire to the corresponding socket pad on the back of the neckboard. If that's too much trouble, it's LCD time.