New to me RUSH the rock has arrived.. looking for insight.

I hadn't even noticed the wire nuts when I first looked at your images. (Should have!) I would start just unscrewing each and making sure the connection is good.

Reseating chips is another easy/free fix if the wire nuts aren't to blame.

I feel you on the previous guy sabotaging the game thing. I've picked up games from sellers before where they said it worked great until a previous interested party looked at it, said it didn't work, and tried to lowball them so they refused to sell it to him. We have douchebags like that out here.
Got everything reset, and soldered/heat shrinked the video wires and no such luck.
 

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Hmmmm... Well, hopefully the PCB / video portion of it are ok. Reseating chips is the only other free / easy attempt I can think of.
 
Hmmmm... Well, hopefully the PCB / video portion of it are ok. Reseating chips is the only other free / easy attempt I can think of.
Ive got a local mobile arcade technician coming out monday to diag
 
BTW, when and if you get the chance, doing an SDcard upgrade to replace your hard drive is a very smart idea. Makes it load faster and makes it more reliable / no hard drive lag at all.

Can be done by yourself easily if you're somewhat tech-savvy, or you can buy the kit off eBay if you're lazy. :D
 
The flash kit with new ic's was the first thing i did! I just think its interesting that the game completely works. Like COMPLETELY works. Its just not displaying on the monitor.
 
BTW, when and if you get the chance, doing an SDcard upgrade to replace your hard drive is a very smart idea. Makes it load faster and makes it more reliable / no hard drive lag at all.

Can be done by yourself easily if you're somewhat tech-savvy, or you can buy the kit off eBay if you're lazy. :D
 

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Congratulations on owning THE BEST coin-op game ever made. This is fact. Conveniently, since you own two of them, you could push them together back-to-back and use your other cabinet to help narrow things down if need be. You could connect the video cable from the "new" cabinet to the monitor in your existing one to rule out any issues "cabinet-side".
So i just did what you suggested, linking the video from the good cabinet to the dead monitor cab, and im still only getting rastor. But when i link the other way, the video from the bad cabinet appears on the monitor of the good one. Which means the video feed is working on the dead cab. So why else would i not get video, but rastor line from flyback? Is the main chip on my chassis or neckboard bad?
 

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Its safe to assume now that the issue isnt down below, its something on the top end.
 

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And after comparing the neckboard of the good cabinet (A) to the neckboard of the bad cabinet (B) i see some stuff that catches my eye..
 

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I've had a few of those Rush machines. My NeoTech monitors always needed a new flyback.

I've sold and re bought and sold again. I miss them, but no one would play them.
Hey john real quick. Would this missing solder point/connection point on the crt connector be the reason for missing video???
 

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Hey john real quick. Would this missing solder point/connection point on the crt connector be the reason for missing video???
the neck pins are labeled on the board and that one's blank

people use the 10-pin/8-pin labels but both varieties only have 8 pins. they're just physically different shapes and the focus pins are in opposite corners between CR-23 and CR-31 lol

the bad monitor, was the signal header pin solder redone? typically the outermost pins take the most abuse from plugging/unplugging, the solder will become fractured. the bit of solder around the pin will be disconnected from the circuit in this case. it'll be a visible black circle where it cracked, I'm probably not alone in calling those halos. but if you're missing the sync connection it should be a blank screen. if the Screen pot on the flyback is turned way up you'll have retrace lines, I think that's supposed to show if there's no sync signal right?

I'm certain all Neotec monitors have LM1203 chips (or at least an equivalent), if that's bad then you won't have visible colors on the screen. @zenomorp may know more. I'm not really in a monitor fixing mode right now as I don't do much of it anymore.
 
the neck pins are labeled on the board and that one's blank

people use the 10-pin/8-pin labels but both varieties only have 8 pins. they're just physically different shapes and the focus pins are in opposite corners between CR-23 and CR-31 lol

the bad monitor, was the signal header pin solder redone? typically the outermost pins take the most abuse from plugging/unplugging, the solder will become fractured. the bit of solder around the pin will be disconnected from the circuit in this case. it'll be a visible black circle where it cracked, I'm probably not alone in calling those halos. but if you're missing the sync connection it should be a blank screen. if the Screen pot on the flyback is turned way up you'll have retrace lines, I think that's supposed to show if there's no sync signal right?

I'm certain all Neotec monitors have LM1203 chips (or at least an equivalent), if that's bad then you won't have visible colors on the screen. @zenomorp may know more. I'm not really in a monitor fixing mode right now as I don't do much of it anymore.
Thanm you for taking the time to type all that i really appreciate you, Mecha!

So its funny you say that, there are 2 solder points near the neck connector that have a black "burned" looking ring around them... ill take a pic when i get home
 
the neck pins are labeled on the board and that one's blank

people use the 10-pin/8-pin labels but both varieties only have 8 pins. they're just physically different shapes and the focus pins are in opposite corners between CR-23 and CR-31 lol

the bad monitor, was the signal header pin solder redone? typically the outermost pins take the most abuse from plugging/unplugging, the solder will become fractured. the bit of solder around the pin will be disconnected from the circuit in this case. it'll be a visible black circle where it cracked, I'm probably not alone in calling those halos. but if you're missing the sync connection it should be a blank screen. if the Screen pot on the flyback is turned way up you'll have retrace lines, I think that's supposed to show if there's no sync signal right?

I'm certain all Neotec monitors have LM1203 chips (or at least an equivalent), if that's bad then you won't have visible colors on the screen. @zenomorp may know more. I'm not really in a monitor fixing mode right now as I don't do much of it anymore.
I actually found a photo. The area im talking about is above the red circle
 

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You need to post pictures of your image with the game running so we can see what it's doing.
Sure thing, game fires up as it should, every sounds great, fan sounds healthy, flyback sparks to life as it should. And im left with grey screen with rastor. As previously stated. The game plays blind, being well versed with this cab with my existing working one, i was able to navigate the menus and start a round and race. Just no video.
 

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Sure thing, game fires up as it should, every sounds great, fan sounds healthy, flyback sparks to life as it should. And im left with grey screen with rastor. As previously stated. The game plays blind, being well versed with this cab with my existing working one, i was able to navigate the menus and start a round and race. Just no video.
So the term "playing blind' means you can hear the game running and working but the screen in blank/can't see anything on the screen. Yours is not blank, so using the term "playing blind" would not apply here. Just saying. As for the the issue, did you turn the screen adjustment down on the flyback and see if the raster lines go away? We also need to see the video connection at the monitor.
 
This is why it's great to have a test monitor and a monitor tester.

I have a 19" tri res LCD that will test everything and a Wells Gardner monitor pattern tester.
Then you can see if it's a monitor issue or board issue.
 
So the term "playing blind' means you can hear the game running and working but the screen in blank/can't see anything on the screen. Yours is not blank, so using the term "playing blind" would not apply here. Just saying. As for the the issue, did you turn the screen adjustment down on the flyback and see if the raster lines go away? We also need to see the video connection at the monitor.
I assumed playing blind simply meant you can play the game with no video output. Didnt know it mattered whether or not the monitor illuminated or not. It aint that serious man. Lol
 
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