LaughingStar
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- Sep 24, 2025
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Hello,
I recently inherited 8 or so arcade machines in various states of operating and disrepair that I have in my game store. My popular one is cruis'n, and it worked fine till a few months ago when I lost red and green. I am new to soldering and electronics repair so I opted to try out a universal chassis in hopes of getting it working, while I take some time trying to fix the origional in the proper ways. it fixed the issue of colors, though it blew the big power side resistor after about 10 minutes. I have seen videos that call it the B+ resistor. heard it make a pop, another one as the plastic cracked, and as I powered it down and unhooked the power wire, the resistor was glowing under the plasitc.
when I initially installed it, I followed the advise of a video and cut the wall plug off and powered the unit from the on board Isolated circuit. I never checked until after the pop to realize that the power supply in the cabinet was putting out 120v and the chassis is clearly labeled for 110v. I mistakenly thought the system was just passing along the 110v from the wall. I also followed the advise of the video and didnt adjust the pot that alters the voltage going to that resistor, but it seems like I should have at least checked the voltage there before spending time adjusting. I was also getting a lot of whine, I think from the flyback, though it went away when the picture looked good.
so my main question is whether or not having the 120V on that input would kill that resistor, or if I should be looking at other parts of the chassis.
second would be what to do with it. for sure I will have to replace that resistor, but what should I do about that 120V? Run a 110v isolator on a seperate / or same circuit? or just run without and use straight 110 as that appears to be what its designed for.
3rd question is if anyone knows what voltage should be going to that resistor for a 25 inch monitor (i read later that you can adjust that pot to dial it in based on the size of the screen)
Sorry im long winded in forums lol. I still have the origonal which im sure is much better quality, but I think at this point I'd like to cut some teeth on this cheapy before trying to diagnose and fix that one.
I recently inherited 8 or so arcade machines in various states of operating and disrepair that I have in my game store. My popular one is cruis'n, and it worked fine till a few months ago when I lost red and green. I am new to soldering and electronics repair so I opted to try out a universal chassis in hopes of getting it working, while I take some time trying to fix the origional in the proper ways. it fixed the issue of colors, though it blew the big power side resistor after about 10 minutes. I have seen videos that call it the B+ resistor. heard it make a pop, another one as the plastic cracked, and as I powered it down and unhooked the power wire, the resistor was glowing under the plasitc.
when I initially installed it, I followed the advise of a video and cut the wall plug off and powered the unit from the on board Isolated circuit. I never checked until after the pop to realize that the power supply in the cabinet was putting out 120v and the chassis is clearly labeled for 110v. I mistakenly thought the system was just passing along the 110v from the wall. I also followed the advise of the video and didnt adjust the pot that alters the voltage going to that resistor, but it seems like I should have at least checked the voltage there before spending time adjusting. I was also getting a lot of whine, I think from the flyback, though it went away when the picture looked good.
so my main question is whether or not having the 120V on that input would kill that resistor, or if I should be looking at other parts of the chassis.
second would be what to do with it. for sure I will have to replace that resistor, but what should I do about that 120V? Run a 110v isolator on a seperate / or same circuit? or just run without and use straight 110 as that appears to be what its designed for.
3rd question is if anyone knows what voltage should be going to that resistor for a 25 inch monitor (i read later that you can adjust that pot to dial it in based on the size of the screen)
Sorry im long winded in forums lol. I still have the origonal which im sure is much better quality, but I think at this point I'd like to cut some teeth on this cheapy before trying to diagnose and fix that one.


