Dammit Phet now I want one.
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Wife is working on her own cab.
Yeah, I think it's a Kortek. It should work just fine. I'll just make sure the bezel has a little tint.That's a clean looking monitor! (Other than the poker burn). Very good candidate for a project like this.
A wife that restores cabinets, I assume?Dammit Phet now I want one.
Still wondering this. The Tiny bracket with the little bullet that sits on the bottom of the wooden midway control panels. Does anyone have any of them for sale?Oh, and speaking of the Wood CP undercarriage, does anyone sell those midway 'bullets' that attach to the wood and fit into these metal brackets with the oval slot?
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Just checked Arcade shop they don't have them. Does anyone have some used ones? They attach to the wooden piece and then sit in those slotted brackets.Still wondering this. The Tiny bracket with the little bullet that sits on the bottom of the wooden midway control panels. Does anyone have any of them for sale?




Yeah, I'd love to grab that one to stick in here, but I have no idea where prices have gone on that board. Regaler ole Tetris cost me a little more than I wanted to spend.They Both look really good.
Can't go wrong with Tetris, it's an 'electronic drug' for real and love the Atari version.
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Tetris - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
I still have a Mickey's Magical Tetris board in a cab on a Jamma switcher that my daughter loved when she was a kid.

I have Tetris and Klax in a cabaret I built as well. It's a great combo.I'll probably just stick with two. If columns ever gets boring, which it might, I'll look into Klax, or something else cool.
Looking at this CP for Tetris (with the extra start buttons) it reminded me... Tetris doesn't have dedicated start buttons. You simply hit the fire button to start a game once you credit it up. It also doesn't have UP.Tetris was the best use I could find for an old 8-liner cab I had. I stuffed a JAMMA switcher in it and added a Klax pcb as well.
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The danger with a fix like that is the first time someone new tries to remove the door and it slips down, the neck gets broken. Guess how I know? If there's any way you could add a metal frame to protect the neck similar to a Nintendo 20ez, you'll probably extend the life of the monitor.OK, I started messing with the ABS bezel/shrouds that I had a member make for me a few years ago. These were made mainly for Williams cabarets, but he left me extra material to be able to work with other games. A cut each one to size trying to keep the right monitor place in mind. The vacuum forming is a little rough and so there are some humps and bends here and there that need to be flattened out. I used a heat gun and tried to form fit them to the cab a bit. Just a little more tweaking and I think I'll have them just about perfect. My first attempt was with one of the textured shrouds:
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I then temporarily installed monitor brackets and set the monitor in place to line everything up.
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And then I was able to cut another one (smooth side out) to fit based on the first one.
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This one was a little more deformed from the vacuum former, so I'm trying to heat it and get it to flatten out. It's getting much closer now.
Unfortunately, for perfect monitor placement, I needed to have the neck board stick out about a half inch into the back door opening. Otherwise the monitor sits too far forward in the cabinet. I'll just cut a small square hole in the back door and build the "bubble" out of Wood. Not a big deal really. It'll only stick out about an inch or so.
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