New Project: Tetris Cabaret

[DeLuSioNaL29]

You have a WG K7203. (K7000 family but slightly different).

IIRC, some of those have external res switches on them. Usually 15kHz and 24kHz (NOT medium res though, sadly. 24kHz is for poker cabs and 8-liner cabs only). Some have them removed and it defaults to 15kHz. I don't see it in your pic or in the one below from APAR.

But now at least you know what you have in there! What's great is that you can easily find a drop-in replacement 19" tube from a TV set made after 2001. Most are skinny neck CR-31 tubes. Find a 19" TV set and test the Ohms of the yoke for compatibility.

Monitor tube yoke ohm list:

• G07 - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 52.8 OHMS CR-23
• K4900 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 37.2 OHMS CR-23
• K4600 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 8.4 OHMS CR-23
• 20EZ - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 28.1 OHMS CR-23
• K7000/K7203 - H: 3.4 OHMS V: 15.0 OHMS (max) CR-31

Del

 

[Phetishboy]

You have a WG K7203. (K7000 family but slightly different).

IIRC, some of those have external res switches on them. Usually 15kHz and 24kHz (NOT medium res though, sadly. 24kHz is for poker cabs and 8-liner cabs only). Some have them removed and it defaults to 15kHz. I don't see it in your pic or in the one below from APAR.

But now at least you know what you have in there! What's great is that you can easily find a drop-in replacement 19" tube from a TV set made after 2001. Most are skinny neck CR-31 tubes. Find a 19" TV set and test the Ohms of the yoke for compatibility.

Monitor tube yoke ohm list:

• G07 - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 52.8 OHMS CR-23
• K4900 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 37.2 OHMS CR-23
• K4600 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 8.4 OHMS CR-23
• 20EZ - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 28.1 OHMS CR-23
• K7000/K7203 - H: 3.4 OHMS V: 15.0 OHMS (max) CR-31

Del


View attachment 854796

The tube is absolutely perfect on this one. Zero burn and I don't think this one has any tube issues. I just need to be able to dial in the colors. There are several easily accessible color pots on the neck board, but I just can't seem to get the combination quite right. The fact that it fits and I'm able to get the monitor to sync with the Tetris board is huge. I just can't get it to sync with columns. The size is way off and it seems like it's out of sync in the lower third of the screen. I'll put that board in and take a picture of the screen to let you see what I'm talking about. If there were H and V sync pots, I would be able to tweak those to find a happy medium between the two PCBs. But I just can't find either of those pots on the chassis or the neck board. Just the positioning and height pots as you can see.

 

[Phetishboy]

OK, so it looks like there's at least 4 or 5 pots I could tweak on the board. For whatever reason I can't see them very well on my monitor. But the AR picture seems to show at least 4 to 5 pots that I can tweak. Hopefully I can read the screening to see what each one does.

 

[Phetishboy]

It would make sense why I can't see them as some of them are behind the flyback and some are behind that large heat sink divider. Weird that they would block those from being able to be seen in the back.

 

[DeLuSioNaL29]

IIRC, those pot on the right are trapezoid settings for the image. I worked on one recently and remember seeing them.

Here's another pic I found here on the forum:

 

[Phetishboy]

IIRC, those pot on the right are trapezoid settings for the image. I worked on one recently and remember seeing them.

Here's another pic I found here on the forum:

Well, those won't help me much. There's gotta be an H and a V sync pot somewhere no? This is so fucking weird.

 

[DeLuSioNaL29]

K7203 manual:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140328113611/https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Wells%20Gardner%2013k7203%2019k7203%2013in%20and%2019in.pdf

 

[Phetishboy]

The worst part is I have about three minutes in the morning before work to go look at this thing, my evenings are pretty much full at this point. So I'm never near the machine for very long. I'd just like to get this thing done and into the game room so I can move onto the next thing. I've just never had this many problems trying to get a monitor to sync with two different boards. I've had two in one Jamma switchers in several of my cabinets and never had these issues.

 

[DeLuSioNaL29]

Took this screenshot from the manual:

 

[Phetishboy]

Good old 'V-Un' and 'W-hold'. If I had a nickel.

 

[cwilkson]

That's V-LIN not V-UN. —> linearity

 

[Phetishboy]

That's V-LIN not V-UN. —> linearity

Yeah, I get it. Not much of a humor guy are ya. But needless to say, H frequency, H hold, H sync, V hold, V sync are what I'd be looking for. I assume the 'W' stands for width? What monitor chassis ever labeled it that way? It's always had an 'H' for horizontal.

 

[DuffCon]

I haven't seen any of them in over two years where we used to get together 3 to 4 times per year. I guess pinball just isn't a very social hobby. Losing my Arcade buddies, kids are getting older, wife and I are drifting apart, this is not how I planned to live out my last 30 or 40 years on earth.

Phet,

Real talk, I feel this comment so much. We're close enough in age with my oldest in high school and my closest friends have all drifted away over the years. A lot of the time I feel like I've made all of the effort to maintain these relationships, but even now I never spend any time with anyone really. I think it's really just a middle-aged man destiny, but you can't let it get you down.
Here are some things that I have tried to do in the last few years:

1) Make new friends! I've made connections with some local peeps here and we text all the time!
2) Reconnect with family! My brother and I DID NOT get along in our teens and were mostly estranged. We've come back together and are closer than we've ever been.
3) Make time with your partner without the kids(!) My wife and I have a standing date night, which can simply be drinks and watching a movie together. Mostly we just walk the dogs so we can talk and reconnect.
4) Sadly, cut down on Booze(!) Never had a drinking problem per say, but I've found that even regularly having a couple of beers a day seriously messes up my mood overall. Reducing a lot has helped my overall outlook. I guess it just effects you more as you age.

I don't want to be dramatic, but I lost a friend this year to suicide and he left 2 kids behind. We were great friends in high school and I wish I had talked more recently with him, especially since it's so easy now.

Don't let the bastards get you down, we got you!


Also sidebar:


I question this rusty pot. Also note that the 7200 is just a drop-in replacement for a K7000 so a 19" K7000 chassis should drop in without issue if you can't get this one to work.

 

[cwilkson]

Yeah, I get it. Not much of a humor guy are ya. But needless to say, H frequency, H hold, H sync, V hold, V sync are what I'd be looking for. I assume the 'W' stands for width? What monitor chassis ever labeled it that way? It's always had an 'H' for horizontal.

Sorry...I'm all about the humor. But I'm still asleep until about 2pm. Plus viewing on a phone I thought it was a legit error. Because it LOOKED like V-UN.

Brain dead until coffee.

 

[WadeLanham]

So the picture is much better with this monitor, but I still need to get some of the red out and figure out the best combination of black level, brightness, screen brightness and color. The remote board is also weird. It has pots for H size, H position, V size, V position, black level and brightness. That's it. I'm looking over the chassis, but I only see one other pot and I can't quite tell what it is yet. But I'm just wondering where my frequency pots or sync pots are. Apologies, but I can't remember what monitor I ended up using. I tried all three that were sitting on my shelf and settled on the one that actually synced up correctly. I think I tried a K 7000, 4800 and possibly some lesser known foreign monitor. I would've thought it was the 4800, but they don't have remote boards do they?

View attachment 854444

No green to all green on the old monitor? Now no green on the new monitor? Sounding like your problem may be board or wiring related?

Edit: On closer look, it looks like you do have whites on the new monitor, it just might have the red turned up too high. At first glance it looked like only reds and blues were displaying.

 

[Kickman]

So I got tired of the monitor issues and decided to swap the Kortek out with another 13 inch monitor that I had sitting on the shelf. After building an adapter and making sure the pinout was correct, I installed the monitor. I ended up playing with all four sync pins until I got a combination that gave me a stable image. The picture is much better on Tetris, but I can't get it dialed in for the other games, neither Columns or Solomons key. Seems like when I get it perfect for Tetris, the other two games are screwed up. So I might have to just go with dedicated Tetris and not worry about the two in one switcher at this point. I'm still messing with the colors, but for the most part, the image looks much better. I'll just fix the Kortek when I have time and use it on another project.

I have have always wondered if this would make switching through PCBs with a switcher more effective.. I've never tried it but for 55 bucks

Jamma Image Position Adjustment board with RGB video brightness | eBay

Works great with JAMMA switchers or individual boards. The jumping / jitters image you get with LCD monitors is from the RGB video convert board you're using to run your monitor.

ebay.us

 

[Kickman]

I have have always wondered if this would make switching through PCBs with a switcher more effective.. I've never tried it but for 55 bucks

Jamma Image Position Adjustment board with RGB video brightness | eBay

Works great with JAMMA switchers or individual boards. The jumping / jitters image you get with LCD monitors is from the RGB video convert board you're using to run your monitor.

ebay.us

Jamma Image Position Adjustment board with RGB video brightness | eBay

Works great with JAMMA switchers or individual boards. The jumping / jitters image you get with LCD monitors is from the RGB video convert board you're using to run your monitor.

ebay.us

 

[Phetishboy]

No green to all green on the old monitor? Now no green on the new monitor? Sounding like your problem may be board or wiring related?

Edit: On closer look, it looks like you do have whites on the new monitor, it just might have the red turned up too high. At first glance it looked like only reds and blues were displaying.

Plenty of green. Here, I cranked them both up for you.

 

[Phetishboy]

And here's what Columns looks like with the same settings that Tetris syncs perfectly:

 

[Phetishboy]

But now I'd just like to take all of my clothes off and go lay down in a field and die. While I was tweaking the V linearity pot and the W hold pot, my plastic adjustment tool with the metal tip slipped off the pot and must have bridged 2 resistors or something right next to the VL pot. I saw a little flash and next thing I knew there was a horizontal line across the screen, and I could smell a burning smell. What the ever loving fuck.