New pin: Jurassic Park (And a Freddy pin to repair with it)

Start switch was a dead matrix row. There is a half-ass hack on that connector that I had removed and thought I had fixed. There was no continuity at the actual header pin. The hack was a strand of wire that had been stuffed into the pin housing...

That connector is the dreaded 'double wire' IDC housing. I have no desire to redo one of those bitches right now, so I just redid the hack. I hate doing that...

I still have no clue what is going on with the autolaunch and VUK. I have the VUk disconnected for now. Fuse F8 is blown again, but the new F5 is not blown. I'll try again with F8 later with the VUK disconnected. I'm not even sure what F8 is for yet without researching it. It isn't listed on the inside cover of the manual.

Now I have another issue - the flippers are fluttering. According to Clay's guide, it is either a fuse on the Flipper board or a Tip32c. Anyone ever experienced this?
 
Flippers was fuse. Why'd it blow - I don't know. I'm starting to wonder if all of these issues aren't tied in together. When I noticed a portion of the power wire (white/orange) was the same color code as the switch wire in that dead row (thin gauge white/orange), my butt puckered. I didn't see any hacks of big wire to little wire though, and I searched the whole train.

Q5 was blown on the PPB now. Q3/Q4 were fine now. !5 has tested good over and over, no clue why it died now. I figured it was bad, but showing okay. Replaced it and put in a new F5 - F8 showed good but it looked a little brown.

I also went ahead and put the VUK back in circuit with a new diode. I never saw a flash this time on the fuses. Played a game with those two coils dead, then turned off. F8 blown badly again, but F5 just fine. Q5 is testing bad again.

I'm going to step away from this one for a day or two...
 
seems like those same 2 or 3 fuses must share something in common, a coil, ball lock? it goes without saying, check the schematic
 
Well I'm getting somewhere now. I started to realize I was getting mixed testing results on the tip36's. Especially when I pulled it out completely (testing good then). So, I pulled all connectors and replaced one at a time and rechecked the transistors (Q3 and Q4 test okay with all connectors off). Connector7 causes Q4 to short, and C8 causes Q3 to short. I assume C8 also shorts Q5, but it is blown right now anyways. What does this tell me? Well a playfield wiring short of course!


There is a bulletin out there for Jurassic Park that says the main wiring harness can rub against the upper flipper coil stop and cause coil shorts. Of course when I first read this I disregarded it because of all the other problems I thought were my problem. Once I isolated the problem to wiring though, I remembered and looked it up again.

Unfortunately, this means I have to take out the subway and mutilate the main wiring harness to look for the torn up wire insulation. Hopefully I find the culprit in that mess. Then I can log this one away in the 'bitch repair' log.
 
will do:)



i cant get past 100mil , or get multiball do to that it sucks lol

will start a thread on this machine as soon as i remember my freakin cam !

i hope to get my lw3 picked up soon, since you owned one before , any advice?


hope you get that jp fixed soon,

thanx,
 
Man... I didn't find any damage near that flipper. It was all pulled well away from it with a large wire retainer. I cut it all apart anyways and looked closely.

J8 shorts both. J7 doesn't do anything. Now that the holiday weekend is over, anyone have any ideas?
 
I've inspected the whole wiring harness - no damage that I can see to any of the wires to those two coils.

As I've said before, I don't really know yet what F8 is for on the PPB. I can't check the schematic...because fuses F7-F9 are not in the schematics. It was a late addition to JP's. F8 is directly attached to the power pin of those two coils on C7.
 
Good news and bad news.
First the bad news. I thought I had everything kosher. Then Q5 blew up again. Thus, I am now out of Tip36c's again. DAMMIT!

The good news. After it blew yet again, I started from scratch. Q5 controls the autolaunch. The original coil was crusty and possibly bad. I replaced it with a brand new coil. I put it in just as it came out - like anyone would do, right? Well this mis-step will be added to my lessons learned column:

Lesson #40364: ALWAYS VERIFY THE WIRES ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE COIL DIODE!

I am 99.999999% sure I put the wires on the lugs the same as they came off the old one. I know this because I always do one wire at a time. After seeing my fatal error, I checked the coil and diode. The diode was dead as hell. The coil appears to be okay. Okay that wasn't the first thing I did. The FIRST thing I did was smack myself and walk around the room going through my long list of creative expletives.

Anyways, this explains the bright fuse explosions, and explains the short I was looking for on the power wire. Now I just have to get some more transistors and hope my issues are over.
 
Compared new coil to old: The diode was backwards on the new one.

So basically, I HAD fixed the game, but then broke it in a different way. Man that sucks so hard...
 
wanted to weigh in, you are right about f7-9 as it was a last minute add on

HOWEVER it was kept on future games, from what i read last action hero was specifically mentioned as getting the same treatment, it had to do with the flipper power, for specific modes in jp where the ball is kicked back so fast they modified the flippers to compensate,

so look up LAH schematics


hope this helps


p.s i am learning to much about D.E pins
 
pudluther said:
i love jurassic park...hope to add it to the collection one day.
Click to expand...

I sold one 5 years back and my children and wife have not let me forget. cleaning up another now for the arcade along with an apollo 13.

3 pins in a week this a record for me. One that I won't be able to repeat for a long time.... B R O K E.
 
Must have had a sub mailperson on Saturday - the lazy SOB bypassed my house and just put one of those little stubs of paper in my mailbox saying "pick it up on Monday."

I will be having words with the postmaster on this one. Lately they've been pretty good about actually delivering packages. The fact that I KNOW they never stopped at my house on this one just pisses me off, especially since it was a Saturday and cost me two days.
 
FINALLY got my package...

Post master was also pretty ticked my package wasn't delivered. She told me there was a sub on duty that day, and there was absolutely no reason to the notice because delivery confirmation/signature wasn't even required.

Anyways, problems are all solved. YAY!

I also modified the right VUK ramp to fit properly into the game. For now it will just be zip tied in, but I hope to get it properly welded onto the main ramp for a clean, permanent fix. There is pretty much zero chance I'll ever find a replacement original wire form.
 
shardian said:
I also modified the right VUK ramp to fit properly into the game. For now it will just be zip tied in, but I hope to get it properly welded onto the main ramp for a clean, permanent fix. There is pretty much zero chance I'll ever find a replacement original wire form.
Click to expand...

???

The right wireform from the VUK that feeds the cross-playfield wireform for the right inlane is a seperate piece, it is not welded into the cross-playfield wireform. What is the issue again?
 
Geese said:
???

The right wireform from the VUK that feeds the cross-playfield wireform for the right inlane is a seperate piece, it is not welded into the cross-playfield wireform. What is the issue again?
Click to expand...

The real ramp is gone. Someone zip tied in some random upkick wireform from another game. They had it sitting like 2" above the hole, and at an awkward angle If the ball for some reason missed, it would get stuck under the plastic. I had to cut off the bottom flanges for screw mounting so it would fit down where it is supposed to go.

It's a hack, but I have no choice.
 
I was having an intermittent left flipper, so I checked out the flipper board. 4 out of 5 fuse holders were busted. 4 out of 5 had also been previously soldered...badly.

Since I have none of those board level clips on-hand (mental note to order some), I had to resolder them. Now I have solid flips.

Now that it runs good, I wanted to clean the glass and reassemble so I can enjoy the game for a while. I got it all clean and glass back on, fired her up...and the Trex went to sleep. As in, he laid down on the playfield and stayed there.

Put it into test mode and the 'up' switch is not triggering. See what I get for putting the glass on? Okay, so ONE MORE issue and I'm at 100%.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

vintagegamer
York pin show. Wish someone had mentioned it here. :(
Replies
16
Views
746
WadeLanham
WadeLanham
purpleibby
First pin
2 3
Replies
41
Views
2K
purpleibby
purpleibby
vintagegamer
1947 Williams Tornado pin
Replies
0
Views
158
vintagegamer
vintagegamer
Tighe
Data East Jurassic Park Power Supply Weirdness Question
Replies
0
Views
280
Tighe
Tighe
vintagegamer
The challenges of owning a pin in Delaware.
Replies
2
Views
267
vintagegamer
vintagegamer
Back
Top Bottom