New pin: Jurassic Park (And a Freddy pin to repair with it)

[WadeLanham]

Wow, I never noticed before how similar this playfield is to Whirlwind and Addams... no wonder a lot of people like it.

You've got your work cut out for ya, but in the end this could be a true keeper game for you (if there is such a thing) at a really low price! Maybe this will be how my next pin comes along.

Wade

 

[DeLoreanRide]

I can see whirlwind, I dont see the addams family though.

I saw this machine on ebay. I considered it but decided to pass. Wasn't worth it for a game I assumed I would just sell (since I already have a JP).

 

[shardian]

Got my boards back from repair today. Reassembled everything and tried it out. Everything fired up just fine, but there are a few minor issues:
- GI is out
- Raptor kick is dead
- There is a switch in the trough bad (says ball missing)
- Auto Launch firing, but weak (probably busted plunger link)
- Shaker motor sticking or something. I can see it running, but the shaft will move 3/4 or so revolution and stop, then start, then stop - kind of like it is sticking).

Those should be easy fixes I think. I'm just happy to have it this far already.

 

[shardian]

Shaker and trex work perfectly fine in-game. Flippers on the other hand, do not. I have no flippers, fuses are fine. I'll dig into that later. I'm just happy to know that the two most expensive toys don't need attention.

 

[shardian]

F5 fuse is blowing, thus no flippers or some coils. Not sure why yet. Both EOS switches are broken badly - a blade is missing on both. Right EOS has been bypassed and the wires have been neatly soldered and shrinkwrapped together. Left is still just busted.

I bet the raptor kick coil is bad. I never tested it because it doesn't appear to be accessed from the bottom. F5 blew violently as soon as the trex test finished and it started the ball search.

 

[shardian]

Yep, raptor kick coil was fried pretty bad. Time to order parts. At least that solves all of my problems except for the GI.

 

[Geese]

F5 fuse is blowing, thus no flippers or some coils. Not sure why yet. Both EOS switches are broken badly - a blade is missing on both. Right EOS has been bypassed and the wires have been neatly soldered and shrinkwrapped together. Left is still just busted.

The bypassed EOS switch is a hack to get full power to the flipper. It will work fine, it just will not have a pulse of high power if it is pushed back from that position. Check out Service Bulletin # 53 on the Stern Site.

Bad GI is normal on these Data East machines. You will need to run the length of the GI power and see what (or how many) of the GI connectors are fried to a crisp. Replace them and all should be well again.

Mike

 

[shardian]

As far as I can tell, no GI connectors are burnt. I also had my PSU serviced. The one in the cabinet by the xformer is fine looking too. I'm just going to have to trace the juice.

 

[blkdog7]

Wow, I never noticed before how similar this playfield is to Whirlwind and Addams... no wonder a lot of people like it.

You've got your work cut out for ya, but in the end this could be a true keeper game for you (if there is such a thing) at a really low price! Maybe this will be how my next pin comes along.

Wade

I was just thinking the same exact thing. It's almost the identical layout as Whirlwind and Addam's Family also shares a lot of these same shots.

Anyways, looks to be really nice. I always hear great things about JP. I need to play one!

 

[shardian]

Well I put in my parts order just now. I had an interesting time picking parts to repair the raptor coil. The coil was $8.75. The plunger was $9 at bayarea, but out of stock. Everywhere else had it or a similar part number (same part) for $17-$19.

However, I remembered at least the coil was the same in the knocker. Sure enough, the ENTIRE assembly is the same in the knocker and raptor kick. I verified this in my machine, but is spelled out explicitly in the manual.

Guess how much the entire bolt in assembly is?
$15....see how much it pays to thoroughly build your pinball parts order?

I swear I spend more time putting together pin orders than the time I actually spend installing the parts I order.

 

[Fatsquatch]

Anyways, looks to be really nice. I always hear great things about JP. I need to play one!

Uh-oh. I have the feeling that a new video is on the way featuring John's newly acquired JP!

 

[shardian]

Fixed up the Freddy this evening.

- I had to replace a Mosfet and resistor for the claw save - the pads were unforgiving on this one. I don't know if the board is crap, or the heat damage caused the weak pads.
- GI was easy. Interestingly enough, this is the 2nd game recently to have 100% burned out playfield GI (Bride of pinbot was the other). The backbox GI was out due to the screws that connect the socket chain to the main wiring. That is somewhat of a crappy method to tie it in IMO. Should have been a connector.
- Flashers all resolved by replacing both of the big .3ohm resistors. R1 was cooked big time and was dead. Not completely resolved though. Solenoid 18 flashers in backbox not firing - maybe one other flasher too ( I can't remember). There are two mosfets that have been scavenged from the driver board that are probably why. Without schematics, I can't be sure yet.

Can someone with schematics for this game tell me which drivers go with which flashers??

 

[shardian]

Q19 and Q27 are missing. Q19 is the top left flashers in the lightbox. I don't know for sure what Q27 is, but my guess is the flasher inside freddy's head for his eyes. They aren't working.

Dang it I hate working without a schematic. Does anyone know if there are any unused drivers on Freddy that I could move over? I only have one mosfet left.

My next issue is that someone has installed an A-20095 coil in the claw kicker ball save. It is supposed to be A-19300. 20095 is a flipper coil. It appears to fire fine in test mode, but in game it is really weak - barely makes it out of its slot.

 

[WadeLanham]

I swear I spend more time putting together pin orders than the time I actually spend installing the parts I order.

It is one of the biggest pains in the ass in the pin/video hobby. And you can never get all the parts from one vendor, you have to order from 2 or 3...

Wade

 

[shardian]

Yep, and now I get the next frustrating step: installing all the parts that you ordered, which fixes all that but uncovers a few other issues you didn't know about before. Now I get to make another order.

 

[shardian]

Okay, back to the Jurassic Park.

I replaced the Raptor kick - fine now after also replacing the 2 tip36c's that it blew (which I had already replaced...).
Right VUK is not firing still. Not sure why yet. It is also on one of those tips that blew. The coil measured fine. All CPU board drivers are fine.

Left flipper is still dead. There was busted solder on the lugs, fixed that but no dice. The flipper switch is registering on the flipper board now though, so I'll have to investigate further on the coil.

Next issue: I had taken off the right VUK wireform to clean some of the bad rust off. I went to put it back on today...and I have no clue whatsover how it was even installed! Why the dilemma? Because this is not the original ramp. It is some random donor upkicker wireform.

So if anyone has a spare right VUK wireform, I am in need. I had already checked with the big vendors but none of them carry it.

 

[shardian]

Left flipper is working, but I'm not sure what I did to make it work.

Auto Launch and VUK don't work. Now my start button is dead.

As for the start button: There is a diode that is attached to a red wire that is screwed to the ground strap and to one of the start switch lugs. Unfortunately, I don't know which lug. Can someone with a JP let me know which one? When I first turned got this running, the start button worked. Pretty sure I didn't have that diode connected then.

One other thing to confirm: The in-lane insert bulbs are on all the time. I checked the schematics and they aren't listed. So I checked the wiring and they are in the GI string. It appears stock. For real? They have the inlanes tied to the GI??? Can anyone confirm this?

Oh, and the GI works now too. I suppose that came back after repairing the PPB board.

 

[pudluther]

As for the start button: There is a diode that is attached to a red wire that is screwed to the ground strap and to one of the start switch lugs. Unfortunately, I don't know which lug. Can someone with a JP let me know which one? When I first turned got this running, the start button worked. Pretty sure I didn't have that diode connected then

my JP:

there's a diode running in between that red wire/post and the post on the start switch on the right side of it....the banded side of the diode is closest to the red wire/post.


also, there's a diode running in between the back post of the switch & the bottom post closest to the front of the cabinet. the banded side of that diode is closest to the back post of the start switch.


i hope that's the info you were looking for and hope it helps.

 

[shardian]

You're pic is blurry. Is it going to the bulb lead??

 

[shardian]

Yep, there is a 'missing thing' on the lug for the lamp. That shouldn't effect the switch, so I wonder what has happened?

Anyways, back to the upset autolaunch and VUK. They both share a power line by themselves. I traced the power and ground lines all the way back to the PPB connectors - all continuity. Still no power at all at the coils with or without the LR relay activated. Then I checked all the fuses again. F8 on the PPB was bad. Replaced it and fired the machine up. After T-rex calibration (which is annoying as hell I might add), the VUK fired to clear the trough and blew the hell out of F5 again as soon as it did. With the fuse blown, all Tip36's read as shorted. With that dead fuse pulled, all read fine. I cut the diode on the VUK to check it - it is fine. Auto launch is a brand new coil. Ohms on VUK read 10-11 ohms.

WTF is going on here?? I could use some ideas right about now. Is it possible the VUK coil is bad, even though the ohms is what I assume is acceptible? I guess my next option is to cut the leads to the VUK, replace the fuse and see if it pops again.