New pin: Jurassic Park (And a Freddy pin to repair with it)

shardian

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
8,762
Reaction score
8
Location
Culloden, West Virginia
New pin: Jurassic Park (And a Freddy pin to repair with it)

Just got two more pins Friday. Jurassic Park is mine, and the guy brought up a Freddy for me to repair for him.

First, Freddy: Cosmetically nice. Dead though with junk on the screen. I suspected the battery. First I looked over the boards and then checked the outrageous number of fuses. No one will ever accuse Gottlieb of UNDER-engineering something! Found a fuse blown by the transformer. Replaced it and turned game on - fully functional! There are numerous issues though that will need my attention. It is so much easier to diagnose when the game works though.

Jurassic Park: I knew this one would be a project. The pics showed extensive acid damage on the CPU. The front cabinet panel was trashed. The playfield might have been okay from the pics - hard to tell since the glass was dirty as hell.
Get it in and inspect. The acid damage AND the front panel are worse than the pics showed. Other than the front panel, the cabinet is nice. Upon inspecting the playfield, I was presently surprised. The playfield is nice. I mean N-I-C-E. There is no wear to speak of, not even on the gobble holes. It isn't even really dirty. I could wipe a rag on it and call it a day!

I've been working on the boards and have made some progress. All kinds of stuff locks on and nothing really works. Tons of the crappy fuse holders are broken. Tons of fuses are blown. I replaced one and a bunch of coils locked on, the dinosaur started going up/down, and the shaker locked on.

I've did a quick rebuild around the acid damage. I've replaced a few connectors and headers, etc. Today I bench tested the CPU and the PSU. Low +5, so bad caps on PSU. Only 3.36 volts. That explains everything being dead. Booted with a pc power supply, the board has PIA and +5 led's on with no blanking action. I switched to both test EPROMS, and switched in a spare ram. No difference. I started testing the cpu, and all the sudden the game started trying to boot when I probed pin 39 on the CPU chip. It cycled between blanking and pia led's about 10 times, with the relay kicking each time. Then it shut down to only the +5 led being lit. I got it to do this about 3 times. Bottom line, the acid damage has propably detroyed a trace or twenty. I'm probably going to ship off the cpu board and repair the PSU and PPB myself.

Pics coming later.
 
Sounds like you'll be having fun for a while.

You have to wonder how pins get so bad though. I can see some of that damage being just from storage, but they must have put the thing away after running it into the ground.
 
Sounds like you'll be having fun for a while.

You have to wonder how pins get so bad though. I can see some of that damage being just from storage, but they must have put the thing away after running it into the ground.

All the damage is from storage. Odds are it was in an open ended garage/shed, and the front got wet. Then with some moisture/humidity in the head, the batteries took a dump after a few years. Same thing for the power supply filter caps. Did this game work before they stored it? No it definitely had some coil issues from the fuses and bad TIP36c's on the PPB, and the badly burned coil connectors. Was it straight forward repairable? Most likely yes. Now it is a cluster fu.......you get idea.
 
JP is a great game.

I might have an extra Cliffy protector for the control room hole. If so, you can have it. I'll check around and see if that's still here.
 
All I gotta say about JP is fuck the damn T-Rex. I hate fixing that mofo. Seems like something always goes wrong. Hopefully yours has a nice long life.
 
I've seen more than a few people say they disable the L/R motor so he just goes up and down to eat the ball. We'll see where I stand. Currently he's sitting off to the right and I won't know more until I get the boards repaired. I do know he goes up and down at least.
 
I disabled the left/right on mine, and never had a problem.

Also, make sure you have current ROMs for that game as they reduce wear on the T-Rex motor big time.
 
I disabled the left/right on mine, and never had a problem.

Word.

The left-to-right movement is kind of a pointless feature anyways, since the range and speed of motion isn't that great.

The up/down and CHOMP is what really counts.
 
I guess since Im selling these things I never thought to just unhook it. I think in my case it might be bad juju to do this to someone who will never maybe know that it does go left to right. Would this make me a bad person or would you do it.

<I got one right now im trying to fix for our floor and this would save me alot of time and effort.>

Actually as I finish typing this I realize I would feel too bad about it. Guilt doesnt seem to leave me very fast.
 
You don't have to physically disable it; the left-to-right can be turned off in the firmware.

I would just adjust the option, and sell it with the info that the L-to-R movement was disabled due to it being flaky.
 
Actually the left to right motion is rather easy to fix.

There is a relay board under the playfield close to the flippers that controls the L-R motion. That relay board is notorious for having broken solder joints. Remove the board, suck all of the solder off of the board, and resolder the relay and replace the header pins for the connector. While you are at it, replace the mating connector.
After this is complete, make sure that the left, right and center switches register in the diagnostic test for the T-Rex, if they do not, adjust or replace them. After you complete these steps, the Dino should work, if he still fails to move, then replace the motor.

Mike


I guess since Im selling these things I never thought to just unhook it. I think in my case it might be bad juju to do this to someone who will never maybe know that it does go left to right. Would this make me a bad person or would you do it.

<I got one right now im trying to fix for our floor and this would save me alot of time and effort.>

Actually as I finish typing this I realize I would feel too bad about it. Guilt doesnt seem to leave me very fast.
 
Actually the left to right motion is rather easy to fix.

There is a relay board under the playfield close to the flippers that controls the L-R motion. That relay board is notorious for having broken solder joints. Remove the board, suck all of the solder off of the board, and resolder the relay and replace the header pins for the connector. While you are at it, replace the mating connector.
After this is complete, make sure that the left, right and center switches register in the diagnostic test for the T-Rex, if they do not, adjust or replace them. After you complete these steps, the Dino should work, if he still fails to move, then replace the motor.

Mike

lol nice avatar. Im gonna go use this info shortly. And the menu option for the left to right is a great piece of info to know. Now back to the dinos.
 
I spent some time with JP just now. First off, I pulled all the boards. CPU and PSU are getting shopped off. PPB board is going to be repaired by me - 2 tip36c's dead, and 2 header pins have cold solder. Everything else checked out okay via DMM.

Next I decided to attack/analyze the water damaged front panel. I took off everything from the front and propped the cab up. After analyzing it, I decided the front panel can mostly be saved. Yay! The damage is isolated to the bottom 4", and the back side veneer of the front panel was okay. I've cut off all the bad wood and will make a patch section. I've lost the bottom Jurassic Park emblem, but I can re-create it no problem.

I was really worried I was going to have to cut an entirely new front panel. This is really good news.
 
pictures.
Notes:
I have not touched the playfield - it came that nice and clean.
I had already cut off the bad parts of the front before taking pics
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3685.jpg
    IMG_3685.jpg
    96.6 KB · Views: 282
  • IMG_3686.jpg
    IMG_3686.jpg
    95 KB · Views: 284
  • IMG_3687.jpg
    IMG_3687.jpg
    94.6 KB · Views: 280
  • IMG_3688.jpg
    IMG_3688.jpg
    54 KB · Views: 280
  • IMG_3689.jpg
    IMG_3689.jpg
    102.4 KB · Views: 47
more pictures
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3690.jpg
    IMG_3690.jpg
    102 KB · Views: 264
  • IMG_3691.jpg
    IMG_3691.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 261
  • IMG_3692.jpg
    IMG_3692.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_3693.jpg
    IMG_3693.jpg
    94.7 KB · Views: 257
more pictures



nice looking playfield.....your control room/bunkers look better than mine, but overall i'm very happy with how nice my playfield is as well.


nice score, dude....i hope you get it up and running soon. luckily, the last thing i have to do is get that diode on the control room switch and (hopefully) fix my sole remaining problem (for now, lol).






did you say that the cab had been water damaged? seems i remember something about that. looks to be in pretty rough shape, but i'm sure you'll have it looking nice before long.
 
Where you see the missing wood on the front was the water damage. I removed all the bad wood. You can also notice general rusting on bolts and stuff. The white looking areas on the front of the sides also is probably caused by water. It's superficial though, because the sides are solid. I'll mask off the JP emblems on the front and sides and repaint all of the black on the cabinet to make it sharp again. Like I said, the fact I can salvage the front changed this from a major project back to a standard project. I'll have this one nice in no time.
 
I'll mask off the JP emblems on the front and sides and repaint all of the black on the cabinet to make it sharp again. Like I said, the fact I can salvage the front changed this from a major project back to a standard project. I'll have this one nice in no time.



that's what i was getting at......this would be a "holy shit...where do i start??!!??" project for me. ;)



good luck. can't wait to see the final product. JP is a great pin. you said you plan on keeping it, right?
 
Back
Top Bottom