new monitors for Centipede and Defender?

Paladin said:
Gary, do you still have any of the emails I sent you before you picked up the Defender? I was trying to remember if I recapped that monitor or not. I know I didn't replace the flyback, but I may have caped it.

I'll have to check my emails later today although if I bought a cap kit I might have given you the paper with the parts list on it, so you can check for that. Also if you look at the chassis and it's clean and free of any gunk then it means I pulled it out, cleaned it and installed a kit.

Tom
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure you capped it before I got it. I'll dig through my email to be sure.

I hooked it all back up tonight and it's not running. Going to go fuse shopping tomorrow. :)

Gary
 
I'm nutty for even thinking about replacing the Centipede monitor. After playing on it a bit, it isn't bad at all. If I can adjust the hue and brightness, it's really good! I'll try that soon.

Only weird thing is that last night the image was jumping a pixel or so to the left and right now and again. It really felt like interference with something external in the house. I'm going through a nice voltage regulator before plugging into the wall. I'm not seeing it today though. I'll have to pay more attention to what is on in the house when it happens.
 
GaryMcT said:
I'm pretty sure you capped it before I got it. I'll dig through my email to be sure.

I hooked it all back up tonight and it's not running. Going to go fuse shopping tomorrow. :)

Gary
Click to expand...

I do have a JROK board that I could put in here, but I'm determined to get the original one working again. I at least want to be able to compare the two. I'm curious how the sound compares. I'm convinced that everything else will be identical given how it's implemented.
 
GaryMcT said:
I do have a JROK board that I could put in here, but I'm determined to get the original one working again. I at least want to be able to compare the two. I'm curious how the sound compares. I'm convinced that everything else will be identical given how it's implemented.
Click to expand...

Here's what you said:

"So far I've replaced all the RAM and did a cap kit on the monitor. The picture doesn't get quite wide enough, so I need to check the B+ voltage and maybe order a new horizontal width coil."

I'm not sure if you ever did anything with the horizontal width coil. I'll get it running again and see how it looks.
 
More than happy to discuss your options at the meeting on Saturday if you are going to be there.

It IS almost time for our first repair party of the season.
 
Dokert said:
More than happy to discuss your options at the meeting on Saturday if you are going to be there.

It IS almost time for our first repair party of the season.
Click to expand...

I will definitely be at the meeting on Saturday.

I'm looking forward to the repair party! I have a lot to learn.
 
Alrighteeeee. I adjusted the brightness/red/green/blue on the Centipede monitor and it looks really good now! Now that the black levels are good and the red isn't so high, it looks great! I couldn't get it quite perfect though since I was eying the adjustments based on the first palette that comes up when you boot and comparing to Mame.

The red was actually all the way down, so I had to turn up the green and blue to get them to the same level to get white to be good. After that, I turned down the brightness to get the black levels right. Looks pretty darn good now! The whites are still a little off, but I don't have very good intuition for what to do to the colors to get it to be white. You'd think I'd be able to do that by now being a graphics program and all. . oh well. :) I could probably take a picture of it with my wifes nice camera and look at it in photoshop to see what I need to do to get it to be white.

Is there a test pattern somewhere in Centipede, or do you have to hook something external up to get one? If I had a test pattern, it'd look pretty much perfect. :)
 
Looks really really good now!

I just did the most ghetto monitor calibration ever! 1) Adjust by eye compared to an LCD monitor running Mame that is hopefully well-calibrated. 2) Take a picture of the monitor with a fairly "normal" setting with my wife's Canon 5D. 3) Bring picture into photoshop, blur so that you don't have red, green, and blue phosphors separated. 4) Use the eye dropper in photoshop and to see how close to white the spider leg is 5) repeat until happy.

Fortunately, I didn't have to repeat too much. It looks really really good now

Thanks for the advice guys. . buying a new monitor was far from necessary in this case. :)
 
Paladin said:
Gary, do you still have any of the emails I sent you before you picked up the Defender? I was trying to remember if I recapped that monitor or not. I know I didn't replace the flyback, but I may have caped it.

I'll have to check my emails later today although if I bought a cap kit I might have given you the paper with the parts list on it, so you can check for that. Also if you look at the chassis and it's clean and free of any gunk then it means I pulled it out, cleaned it and installed a kit.

Tom
Click to expand...

I got the Defender running again. I'm once again full of it. The monitor looks pretty darn good actually. There are only two things that I would want to try to fix on the monitor:

1) There is a severe high frequency squeal that is worse than on other machines. Does that typically point to any problems in particular? I can live with it, but if there's an easy fix, I wouldn't mind trying to fix it.
2) As the game gets brighter/darker, the image on the screen seems to scale in size.

I can't wait for my buttons for this to come in from Bob Roberts!! The NOS ones that I put in there are extremely stiff and hard to play with.
 
Over at Bob Roberts, there are a few options:

Electrohome GO7 flyback (A29951B) $19.00
G07 Flyback & Cap Kit $23.00
GO7 Flyback Repair Kit $26.00
G07 Super Repair Kit $35.00
G07 Deluxe Repair Kit $38.00

Paladin capped it already. Should I just buy the flyback and be done with it, or are there other parts in the other kits that I may want to get also? (Width coil, regulator, "hot", etc.)
 
i'm assuming here that you're talking about the GO-7 in the Defender where you could replace the flyback (the K4600 is another story and replacement flybacks are hard to come by.)

Bob has a nice little write-up on quieting a singing flyback here:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/whiny.html

but if you look at the GO-7 and see that the flyback is white (or grey from dirt, but definitely not black,) especially if it has a green sticker-label on it somewhere, then it's likely the original and you should replace it anyway.

if the horizontal width coil is in decent shape i'd recommend just the rebuild kit (or just a flyback and get a kit from Dokert.) if it's not (missing the top or impossible to adjust,) you should get the super or deluxe kit from Bob and just shotgun the whole thing while you're at it.

edited to add:

i forgot that it was already capped... maybe just the flyback and a width coil, but the deal on the rebuild kits pretty much gives you a free cap kit to use later on and if you buy more machines it's almost inevitable you'll be faced with more GO-7's.
 
Awesome. . thanks guys!

I'll have to figure out something that I can do to help you guys at some point. :)
 
Buy the super deluxe kit and save the other parts, as you will need them later for another game.

4600 flys are available from Arcadecup IIRC
 
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