New monitor in Pole Position help

tinsley

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I am pulling a monitor from a newer machine (well, newer then PP, this is coming from a cab from late 80's, early 90's) that uses a iso transformer and i want to use it in my Pole Position cab. What would I need to do for it to work? I don't think PP uses and iso transformer, does it? I am confused here. The monitor works fine in its original cab. Moved it to PP, it didn't work. Put it back in original cab (to make sure I didn't 'F it up) and it worked. The PP cab is working as it had a working monitor in it, it just had a lot of screen burn so I am replacing it. What do I need to do to get the new one working? I am not sure of the chassis type, I can take pictures tomorrow. Do I need to add a new iso transformer for the monitor? Is it a sync issue (heard PP uses a different sync then most games) or what? Any help is appreciated...
 
Here are pictures of the chassis. Please help me get this going..
 

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All things being equal; if both monitors work in other cabinets, but don't work when swapped, either:

1) you have a power issue of some kind - probably a loose connection. Check to see if there's heater voltage. If there is, it's another issue. If not, try gently flexing the power connectors to see if it fires up.

2) PP is outputting a frequency the new monitor doesn't like, or a wrong sync or something like that.
 
And yes, PP had an isolation transformer. Monitors that didn't require them weren't used until much after it was released.
 
What was the original monitor in the game, and can I see a photo of the video connector?

edit: of the video harness in the game, not on the chassis.
 
Just noted that the monitor you posted photos of above has switches to change the sync. I think it's set for composite negative sync. If PP uses positive sync, you'll need to move those switches to their polar opposite.
 
would i need to move both switches? i am not sure what sync it uses, but the monitor that came out of it went directly to the cab i am pulling the monitor out of and it still works....
 
here is a pic of the connectors from PP. i am using the red connector only...
 

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Pole Position definetly has an isolation transformer in it.

Pole Position was wired with two different video connectors in the harness because they used several different monitors.

Many Pole Position games used a Matsushita monitor. Some cabinets had an Electrohome G07 which uses a three pin and a six pin connector (the 3 pin is the sync and the six pin is the colors).

If you look at Schematic Package SP-218, Sheet 1B you'll see the video connector wiring for the various monitors.

In order to use the red connector in your picture with your monitor, you need to follow the wires back from the red connector about a foot or so and you'll see a male and female quick disconnect connector. These are P21 and J21. They must be joined in order to pass the sync signal to the correct pin on the red connector. If P21 and J21 are not connected, the sync signal will never be present on the red connector.

This is a composite negative sync signal. So both sync switches on your new monitor should be on "negative". Your new monitor appears to be a Kortek or a Sharp Image rebranded Kortek.
 
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Pole Position definetly has an isolation transformer in it.

Pole Position was wired with two different video connectors in the harness because they used several different monitors.

Many Pole Position games used a Matsushita monitor. Some cabinets had an Electrohome G07 which uses a three pin and a six pin connector (the 3 pin is the sync and the six pin is the colors).

If you look at Schematic Package SP-218, Sheet 1B you'll see the video connector wiring for the various monitors.

In order to use the red connector in your picture with your monitor, you need to follow the wires back from the red connector about a foot or so and you'll see a male and female quick disconnect connector. These are P21 and J21. They must be joined in order to pass the sync signal to the correct pin on the red connector. If P21 and J21 are not connected, the sync signal will never be present on the red connector.

This is a composite negative sync signal. So both sync switches on your new monitor should be on "negative". Your new monitor appears to be a Kortek or a Sharp Image rebranded Kortek.

the old monitor did require both the 6 pin connector and the 3 pin connector to be installed. i thought the 3 pin was for the sync, so i was correct there. i am going to look for the p21 and j21 now. thanks!
 
KenLayton, you are the man! Ha, that worked great. Now my colors seem very dark, so some adjustments will be required. I should of noticed the quick disconnect. Easy problem overlooked. Thanks!
 
how do you adjust the hor. size on this chassis? the knob for it does nothing....
 
i believe so, i do not own a width adjustment tool though. so, until i can get one it will have to remain as is. does radio shack still carry these? i can't find them on their site. if i could pick 1 up locally i would prefer that...
 
Radio Shack discontinued the monitor/television alignment tools completely I believe about a year ago. Here are their part numbers once again in case they still have some:

64-2230 Alignment tool set, 3 piece

64-2220 Alignment tool set, 5 piece

64-2223 Alignment tool set, 2 piece

I use GC Electronics # 8606-L Hex Alignment Tool. Fits about 99% of the width coils in arcade monitors and will probably fit yours. Available through your local GC Electronics distributor for about $3.
 
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