new monitor chassis installed - hantarex polo 25"

[arcadegarage]

possible tube problem?

you are correct, sir. i talked to victor and he said the width coil on this cannot be adjusted. he says the chassis is fine and thinks its the tube. thoughts?

i also wonder if my old chassis is ok then?

 

[keithsarcade]

I dont think a tube would have anything to do with the image width.

Whats the problem with the original chassis?

 

[arcadegarage]

The original chassis blew and this burning smell came out the back of the game. When you plugged it in it made a patterned clicking sound without a picture. I explained it in the first listing here but it seems like a common problem for these monitors.

 

[arcadegarage]

At a standstill and can't get victor to reply to any emails since I asked for a refund (that ge actually suggested I do). Any last thoughts on this one?

 

[gamefixer]

Do you have the ability to unsolder the width coil? It could be that the iron core is put in upside down and the hole for the adjustment is on the bottom. You might want to look for a hole in the board just underneath the coil too. Some times you have to adjust those things from the bottom.

Dont return the chassis, all you need to do is make adjustments to that width coil and you should be fine.

Besides heating the coil up there are a few more reasons to NOT use an allen wrench. First, those cores are really easy to break. Twist in the wrong direction with the allen wrench and the core will crack. Second, you change the value of the core when you put a metal allen wrench into it. When you make your adjustments and pull the wrench out the value will change back and your adjustment will be wrong. Not a deal killer though. Third, the LAST thing you want is to accidentally drop an allen wrench on the chassis while its powered up. If you drop the platic tool on the chassis you will be fine.

The tools can be found here (http://www.happ.com/monitors/92019600.htm) but Happ has a $25.00 order minimum so you'll need to buy a few more things.

Your original chassis probably has a bad flyback. Those Polo's can be a total nightmare to get working.

 

[R3LL1K]

Do you have the ability to unsolder the width coil? It could be that the iron core is put in upside down and the hole for the adjustment is on the bottom. You might want to look for a hole in the board just underneath the coil too. Some times you have to adjust those things from the bottom.

I forgot to mention that in addition to the ferrite core being smooth and not having a socket for an adjustement tool it is also glued in place.

I think that the main issue is that the width coils aren't properly adjusted before being shipped out or the ferrite core shifts while the glue/epoxy is setting.

Of the last two chassis that I bought one worked fine while the other gave me a slightly wider image.

 

[KenLayton]

There's an old trick of heating up the width coil with a hair dryer. Sometimes it softens/loosens the glue enough to allow you to turn it.

I also say unsolder the width coil and turn it over to see if the thing adjusts from the bottom.

 

[gamefixer]

I think that the main issue is that the width coils aren't properly adjusted before being shipped out or the ferrite core shifts while the glue/epoxy is setting.

I really wish that manufactures wouldnt do that. The plastic will hold onto the core tight enough to keep it from moving all that much and if it does move wheres it going to go and how far is it really going to move? Ugh...

The coil is the key to getting the image adjusted right. They should just put a regular core in it and not glue it in place.