New LW3 owner

[RussMyers]

Do you mean the factory IDC connectors?

If so, it is best to replace them with the superior .156 Molex Trifurcon pins and connectors.

Here's why:
Molex Connectors Explained, as used in Pinball.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

It will require a small investment in:
A .156 molex pin crimper
.156 Connectors
.156 trifurcon pins
.156 header pins

Some practice - it's not very hard.

Totally worth it.

RussMyers

"Upon further review, the call on the field is overturned." After running a wire straight from the leaf switch to the connector on the board, the switch registers. Wow, completing the drop targets starts multiball, that'll make this game totally different.

Spank, you mentioned there are replacements for the knife connectors on the market?

 

[spanks_4]

Lol I'm so damn awesome sometimes!!!

Anyways go with the connectors/pins that Russ mentioned. I would replace the connector under the PF and the connector inside the head. I believe it should be the same connector/pin type so count the wires and order. It's amazing to say that board works in the condition the thing is in though!

 

[RussMyers]

I get my gear from Great Plains Electronics.
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

I like the 1028-CT crimper
Product ID: 1028-CT
Crimper, General Purpose

Economical "B" Type Crimper For all contacts except 0.062"
"B" type insulation crimps in following cavities:
A = 18-14AWG, B = 24-20AWG
"B" type conductor crimps in following cavities:
C = 16-14AWG, D = 20-18AWG, E = 24-22AWG
Manufacturer: Sargent Tools
Handle color typically blue but may vary.
Made in USA
Price: $27.00

Can't go wrong for only 27 bucks.

Get pins, connectors, headers from there too (also diodes, bridge rectifies, resistors, etc.)

RussMyers

 

[spanks_4]

With the shape that board is in I would be concerned putting any more heat to it lol...

 

[RussMyers]

With the shape that board is in I would be concerned putting any more heat to it lol...

I would just go with the Rottendog board, myself, but it's not my $$$.

Any pin collector needs those .156 crimp pins and parts anyway.

RussMyers

 

[spanks_4]

Well I agree on the crimp stuff, but hey if it works why replace it? Yep it will probably need to be replaced sooner or later, but why replace it/put more money into the machine if he isn't sure he wants to keep it? I say if it's a keeper replace, but if not let the next person replace it, but tell them about it condition.

 

[Dewey68]

You guys are a wealth of knowledge! Messed around some more today, and got the drop targets working with a temporary repair. After running an alligator clip from the left drop target to the IDC connector of the same color that plugs into the board, both targets register now.

I'll check out the crimping tools and connectors and fix it correctly when they get delivered. The game is much more lively with resetting drop targets. I don't know if I'll keep it long term or not, but at least it's working correctly except for the bottom 3 rows of the display. I'll fix the connector, put new rubber on it,clean up the playfield, touch up the paint and then I'll see how it looks. If I do decide to keep it for a while, I'll put LED's in it as well. There is one spot on the playfield that looks like the bulbs underneath have burned the plastic insert and it's been patched up. A small mylar patch would clean that up.

Eventually I'd like to get a pin with a deeper ruleset, but this will be a good starter table. I'll post some pictures after lunch.

 

[spanks_4]

If you have room for more than one then get more than one. Like I said on the phone last night I have some easy games and some semi-deep games/long games. If you get all of the same type of game then you might get burned out on the style of game. Deep games are great, but sometimes you can stay their all day/night playing one game. LOTR is a great example: Watched a guy stand there for an hour-2 to get to the end and TSPP is really deep also. Just saying varried selection is usually better.

 

[Dewey68]

Pictures

Here are some pictures. The right side of the upper box is the worst. The coin door has a plate over it for some reason, I'm guessing the coin device was removed when it was routed and this patched in. The playfield is in pretty good shape. The top stick of dynamite by the drop targets shows a previous repair from heat damage.