New LW3 owner

Holy ouch!!!! Um damn dude I hate to say replace it because of two switches, but I'm going to guess it has more issues than what we've discovered so far....
 
Yeah, that's a hatchet job. I resoldered all the connectors at the bottom, not only the one's in question but the other one's by the "repair". Good news is, it's working the same so I didn't screw it up worse and got it all back together, bad news is it's working the same, same switches aren't registering. I bought this table for $750, any opinions on if it's worth sticking another $275 dollars into? It would still need a new display as well at some time.

Lethal Weapon 3 pinball in questionable shape=$750
New MPU board from Rottendog =$250
New DMD display =$150
Learning way more about pinball machines than I hoped to learn with my first table = PRICELESS!

I may cut my losses on this one and resell it. Any opinions are welcome here.
 
Maybe send it out to have it fixed? Not sure how much it would cost, but I think it would be cheaper that a new one.
 
Bad news is that it is the cpu board *more expensive* and not the PPB board *less expensive* HOWEVER these games do get parted out from time to time so it is possible to put out a WTB post on RGP and see if someone has a good one.

The other thing that concerns me *I'm thinking its the board at this point* is that it still could be one of the connectors.

Worth: Do you see the game as a keeper for you? A game is only worth what you personally think it's worth. Will you get your money back out of it: Maybe or maybe not, but with most hobbies when you sell something off you usually are going to loose.

Edit: And just remember that your next pinball machine could possibly cost you less or cost you a LOT more. I've had machines that have costed a fortune and others just the normal maintenance fees.
 
Last edited:
Y
Lethal Weapon 3 pinball in questionable shape=$750
New MPU board from Rottendog =$250
New DMD display =$150

Well, even with that, and you should be able to get the new DMD for only 125.00 from pinballlife, and some other odds and sods like fresh rubbers, bulbs and such, you'll have a solid and fun-playing LW3 for about 1200-1300.

That seems pretty reasonable to me. That game is no "A-lister" but it's not a turd.

Seems a reasonable place to be, to me.

Get it slick and running 100% and tuned-up well, and after a few months if it bores you, sell it for 1300 or 1400 at Christmas-time and get a different pin.

RussMyers
 
That's a good point, I haven't eliminated that possibility yet Spanks. I could try swapping the wires that run to the switches that aren't working to a spot on the connectors that does work, just for testing purposes.

MES, will techs work on boards that have been hacked by others? It looks like the traces on the board are toast.

I don't know if the games a keeper for me. I guess my mistake was buying a game that I haven't played before. It's not a bad game, but without the drop targets working it's hard to get a true feel for how it should play. Since they don't reset, it takes a lot of the action out of the lower field. I figured this would be a good pin to cut my teeth on. It might be a keeper once I get a second pin, I don't think it's strong enough as someone's only pin.
 
Actually I would run a wire *from white* straight back to where it plugs into the board...

No I seriously doubt anyone is going to touch that board.

I agree with Russ you should be able to get the money back out of it. Depending on condition and if you were closer I would pick it up later.
 
Actually I would run a wire *from white* straight back to where it plugs into the board...

No I seriously doubt anyone is going to touch that board.

I agree with Russ you should be able to get the money back out of it. Depending on condition and if you were closer I would pick it up later.

Hell, I'll drive down to Louisiana, if you can boil up some mud bugs! Love the food in that part of the world. If I lived around those parts, I'd weigh 300 lbs!

I can alligator clip a wire back to the board with it raised and test a switch, that would be easy.

In response to your question on ROMS, they are all rev. 1 according to the DMD on startup.

The table still plays. I might keep my eyes open on Ebay for a used board. My wife is already regretting letting me purchase this thing because I've spent so much time with it already. :) She knows the newness will wear off though.

Russ, thanks for the input. The playfield is in good shape, the cabinet, I'd say a 6. Some touch up paint with a matching color to cover the previous touch up would help. I'll post some pictures in a bit.
 
I think they have a newer rom set that cuts down on some of the annoying sounds a little. Tell the wife to play pinball with you once it's fixed. Because once the newness of this one wears off you will be finding another and another and another! BTW: You should post pictures of the cab and the playfield I'm curious to see how it looks and let you know if you did bad lol.

You drive down here with it and I will gladly take you to some of the best seafood restaraunts down here.
 
i havent read the last few posts, but, WHERE IS Q18?

im going to be nice......contact ebay member Ixis< he is from greece but he is parting out a few data east games very soon! maybe you can make him an offer for a mpu out of another 92 dmd de game...
 
That is always an issue. Most pro/semi-pro board repair techs will not work on a board that has been hacked previously. Why is obvious. Some will, some won't.

Two of the best for pinball board repairs are coinopcauldron and Borygard.

There are others, of course. Good repairs ain't cheap, but generally cheaper than new replacements. I personally don't give a crap if the boards are all-original or are new replacements, but some do. For me, it's "are they clean, fully working, and reliable?".

RussMyers

MES, will techs work on boards that have been hacked by others? It looks like the traces on the board are toast.
 
Oh, and if you decide to go with a Rottendog board (recommended - I have one of the DE MPU boards in my JP - love it; no more batteries !!!) they can be cheaper, a bit anyway, by ordering directly from www.rottendog.com

RussMyers
 
Oh, and if you decide to go with a Rottendog board (recommended - I have one of the DE MPU boards in my JP - love it; no more batteries !!!) they can be cheaper, a bit anyway, by ordering directly from www.rottendog.com

RussMyers

I checked there already for him Russ, but RD.com is out of stock. Only place I found them was little shop of games *Art owns this and is an awesome guy from FL*.
 
"Upon further review, the call on the field is overturned." After running a wire straight from the leaf switch to the connector on the board, the switch registers. Wow, completing the drop targets starts multiball, that'll make this game totally different.

Spank, you mentioned there are replacements for the knife connectors on the market?
 
Back
Top Bottom