New Issue, WGK7K

Devryn

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Those of you that are unfamiliar these are my previous posts:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=172368
In summary:
Mod fixed it and it worked great.
I forgot to replace the anode cap and power on.
It started blowing fuses.
I replaced D20 and D21 and HOT...It stopped blowing fuses but the picture was gibberish.
I replaced the Verticle IC (no change)
I just (tonight) replaced the Horizontal IC.
Now, instead of something that I can't read and looks like gibberish, I get this...I'm SO CLOSE! Anyone have any ideas?
http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/?action=view&current=VID_20110324_182638.mp4
 
Adjusting the vertical size does nothing? When you replaced the vert ic, did you make sure to replace with it with another of the SAME number? What is the ohm reading of the vertical yoke?
 
Green and yellow wires coming from the yoke to the yoke connector behind the flyback. measure the ohms between the two. I doubt the anode discharge damaged the yoke, but you never know...
 
Green and yellow wires coming from the yoke to the yoke connector behind the flyback. measure the ohms between the two. I doubt the anode discharge damaged the yoke, but you never know...

With my multimeter on the ohm setting, dial at "2k" the reading, as measured from the solder points on the board, is .388
 
Set your meter to 200 and try again. You should get a reading of about 12-13 ohms if I recall correctly.

And don't measure at the solder points. Unplug the connector and then measure at the connector...
 
check r80. If its changes value from running hot( shorted ic) it will make the screen vertically collapse. Not saying thats it, but worth checking.
 
Set your meter to 200 and try again. You should get a reading of about 12-13 ohms if I recall correctly.

And don't measure at the solder points. Unplug the connector and then measure at the connector...

O.K. Between yellow and green I'm getting open loop. The green and black gives me a reading of 30...No other combo seems to give me a reading at all.
 
O.K. Between yellow and green I'm getting open loop. The green and black gives me a reading of 30...No other combo seems to give me a reading at all.

Found R80, but can't tell what it's labeling. Is it that light blue hourglass shaped thing? What is that?
IMG_20110326_112051.jpg
 
check r80. If its changes value from running hot( shorted ic) it will make the screen vertically collapse. Not saying thats it, but worth checking.

The continuity reading both ways on R80 (off the board) is .03. The on the ohm setting at 200 it's 2.8
 
O.K. Between yellow and green I'm getting open loop. The green and black gives me a reading of 30...No other combo seems to give me a reading at all.

Green and black? There should only be four wires - red, blue, green (sometimes brown) and yellow. You put your leads inside the same holes the pins plug into.

If you're still getting an open loop, post a pic with your leads inside the connector and showing the reading on the meter so I can see if you are testing the right thing. And if you DO get an open loop, turn the meter setting up one spot and see what you get...
 
Green and black? There should only be four wires - red, blue, green (sometimes brown) and yellow. You put your leads inside the same holes the pins plug into.

If you're still getting an open loop, post a pic with your leads inside the connector and showing the reading on the meter so I can see if you are testing the right thing. And if you DO get an open loop, turn the meter setting up one spot and see what you get...

You're right. I was in the wrong spot. With the multimeter set on 2K, the reading on the board for those two wires, at the connector are .389. The reading at the connector that leads from the yoke is .007
 
O.K. Found out the resistor I replaced at R80 was supposed to be a "flameproof" one. So I went to fry's and bought the right NTE "flameproof" resistor...I'm still getting the collapse...
IMG_20110326_203856.jpg
 
the value of r80 should be like 3.1 ohms if i remember correctly, not 5.6k?(thats 5600 ohms lol) wtf?

lemme go do a little research..

ok yep at least in the case of another klover it was supposed to be a 3.1 ohm resistor

please read post #19 of the k7000 sticky http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=134818&page=2

basically putting a 5.6 k resistor in there, the monitor is basically cramming that image as tight as it can go(you would get the same effect if you ran it without that resistor). THe lower the resistance, the taller the image should get. Obtain a 3.1 ohm resistor and try again. ALso make sure you are playing with the correct resistor here. It should have been a light grey color, not the smurf blue one.

what did the original r80 resistor ohm at? if it ohms anything over like 5 ohms its opened up and its the cause of your vertical issue here. Lets hope thats all it is.

also, i strongly reccomend you get a nicer auto ranging multimeter. It will take alot of the guesswork and mathematical errors out of the equation heh trust me on that one.

EDIT decoding that old resistor is tough, tell me what color bands are on it plz. im having a hard time telling.

RE EDIT checked one of my donors im reading about 5 ohms across. Looks like my resistor had a orange stripe, brown stripe, then gold.. and another gold

according to a resistor calulator 3.1 ohm resistor = orange, brown, gold, gold so there you go. The original resistor you pulled should for sure ohm out about 3-5 ohms. It not( which i strongly suspect) then its krap and you need a fresh 3.1 ohm resistor
 
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the value of r80 should be like 3.1 ohms if i remember correctly, not 5.6k?(thats 5600 ohms lol) wtf?

lemme go do a little research..

ok yep at least in the case of another klover it was supposed to be a 3.1 ohm resistor

please read post #19 of the k7000 sticky http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=134818&page=2

basically putting a 5.6 k resistor in there, the monitor is basically cramming that image as tight as it can go(you would get the same effect if you ran it without that resistor). THe lower the resistance, the taller the image should get. Obtain a 3.1 ohm resistor and try again. ALso make sure you are playing with the correct resistor here. It should have been a light grey color, not the smurf blue one.

what did the original r80 resistor ohm at? if it ohms anything over like 5 ohms its opened up and its the cause of your vertical issue here. Lets hope thats all it is.

also, i strongly reccomend you get a nicer auto ranging multimeter. It will take alot of the guesswork and mathematical errors out of the equation heh trust me on that one.

EDIT decoding that old resistor is tough, tell me what color bands are on it plz. im having a hard time telling.

RE EDIT checked one of my donors im reading about 5 ohms across. Looks like my resistor had a orange stripe, brown stripe, then gold.. and another gold

according to a resistor calulator 3.1 ohm resistor = orange, brown, gold, gold so there you go. The original resistor you pulled should for sure ohm out about 3-5 ohms. It not( which i strongly suspect) then its krap and you need a fresh 3.1 ohm resistor
That makes sense. I'll head to fry's today and buy some 3.1s. The book calls for 5.6, but, I didn't look at the alternative parts list (which usually has the 25" stuff)
 
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