New guy question

After pulling the hot I put black lead on center hole and red on ground and it read 870
 
Before putting the HOT back on the chassis, connect a light bulb (with a holder!) as shown below and turn on the chassis (you don't need to connect it to the tube). If it lights up and the B+ measures 130VDC, then you can safely solder the HOT and don't forget the insulator (doublecheck that there is no continuity between HOT metal tab and heat sink).

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Didn't do the light bulb test yet. I did replace all the caps and used paste and insulator on the hot. Hooked it all up and blew fuse again. Now when I test the hot, it tests good without the screw attaching it to the heat sink but when I screw it down it shorts. What's that all about? I guess I'll do the light bulb test and check the b+ now. Not sure what all I have to hook up. You said to power it but don't have to connect it to the tube. Does that just mean the neck board doesn't have to be plugged in?
 
I just noticed that the center pin of the hot that bends backwards is touching the heat sink. Could that be a problem? I'll bend it to where it's not touching and try again.
 
i want to light this pos on fire 🔥. Ed expect a call from me tomorrow. I'm done wasting time on this thing. Anyone have a rebuilt k7000 chassis for sale?
 
Okay so...... I apologize for my previous meltdown.

Update, bought and installed a new hot. I think the silver paste was conducive or the center leg that bends back touched the heat sink. Either way it was toast and I replaced it with new mica. So when I hooked it all back up the screen was still dead BUT the fuse did not blow. That's a first. So I think I installed a new flyback and cap kit but didn't properly insulate the hot and it sapped something. The vr checks out. After doing limited reasurch I checked the r103 and it measures.004 oms. Not sure if that's the correct value or not or if I should check something else. The fact the fuse didn't blow was encouraging.
 
That is good that the fuse is no longer blowing.

Try unsoldering one lead of D10 and removing that lead from the board. Power up the chassis and see if it comes on. What you are doing is disabling the HV shutdown. This will give us more info on what is going on with the chassis.

Ed
 
Okay I removed one side of d10. The screen came on! It was all jacked up looking but Still. It was on for maybe a minute and then I herd a click and the bong sound of normal start up. Then it did it again. The screen looked like it was still the normal game mode though. What should I do next?
 
This is a good sign. Shows the horizontal circuit is working.

You may have already replaced the voltage regulator. However it may be bad (input to output short)

Ed
 
No I have not replaced the vr. I tested it and thought it was good but from looking through a flow chart it would seem to be the next step to take. Flow chart also said to check the c57. I just replaced all the caps but could have ruined it already I guess. I'll test that as well and get em ordered in.
 
I ordered a new vr, c36, and c69. I wasn't positive how to test if they were bad but have a feeling from reading a post by moddessitt that had Hv shutdown because c36 was out of value. So I'll give it a shot. Also tested all the caps I just replaced and most of them in ohm test would steadily rise in value. However c22 showed nothing so maybe it got fried when the hot blew? Also c45 and c46 showed .3 ohms and did not move up or down. And lastly c12 showed 13.2 ohms and stayed there. So I'm not sure if all those need to be replaced or not but I ordered another cap kit so I'll have them if needed. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
Great news!!!!!

I replaced the vr, c36, c69, c22, 45, 46, 12,and 50. Reattached the leg of d10 I had previously removed. Hooked it all up and the screen came to life!!!! I adjusted the flyback screen dial and the daughter board setting and the picture looks fantastic. Only issue left is small shaking in the picture. Kinda like a ripple in the water. Not sure what that is or how to adjust. But it is very playable now. Thanks so much for all the help. Can't describe how relieved I am. Been at this for a long time.
 
It's not shaky. It like a wave that goes from bottom to top. Could any of the adjustment pots on the chassis help with this? I've only messed with the daughter board and flyback pots so far.
 
It's not shaky. It like a wave that goes from bottom to top. Could any of the adjustment pots on the chassis help with this? I've only messed with the daughter board and flyback pots so far.

could be AC ripple on the filter cap so maybe the filter cap is going bad.
 
Great news!!!!!

Hooked it all up and the screen came to life!!!! I adjusted the flyback screen dial and the daughter board setting and the picture looks fantastic.

Awesome. I was watching this thread and when you got frustrated I know what that feels like all too well. Congrats.

Maybe you can help me though :D I have a MK 2 cabinet. Gutted, pretty much all but the wire harness, transformer (had water damage, maybe in a fire or who knows) and bottom part of the control panel. I want to save the cabinet, and when picking up another game the guy threw in a "broken" k7000 and 25 inch monitor. I have not tested it out yet, Just did the cap kit.

Here is the thing, my other 2 midway cabs, both monitors have a 3 wire input sort of like the midway cab is set up. My k7000 only has a white and black power connector. I was wondering if you can send me pics of how your monitor is connected to the wire harness or cabinet, and if you could send a pic of some of the inside of your cabinet for me so I can have a nice visual reference. I would appreciate it and awesome job on the monitor. I think my one monitor needs new neck board resistors and a good degousing but for now she is solid. The MK2 cabinet on the other hand, I hope to bring back from the dead.
 

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Awesome. I was watching this thread and when you got frustrated I know what that feels like all too well. Congrats.

Maybe you can help me though :D I have a MK 2 cabinet. Gutted, pretty much all but the wire harness, transformer (had water damage, maybe in a fire or who knows) and bottom part of the control panel. I want to save the cabinet, and when picking up another game the guy threw in a "broken" k7000 and 25 inch monitor. I have not tested it out yet, Just did the cap kit.

Here is the thing, my other 2 midway cabs, both monitors have a 3 wire input sort of like the midway cab is set up. My k7000 only has a white and black power connector. I was wondering if you can send me pics of how your monitor is connected to the wire harness or cabinet, and if you could send a pic of some of the inside of your cabinet for me so I can have a nice visual reference. I would appreciate it and awesome job on the monitor. I think my one monitor needs new neck board resistors and a good degousing but for now she is solid. The MK2 cabinet on the other hand, I hope to bring back from the dead.


three wire connector is usually for a monitor that doesn't require an iso transformer and a two wire connector is for monitors that require an iso transformer. some of those midway cabs like your pictures had an adapter added to the harness that had both 2 and 3 wire hookups. your k7000 requires an iso transformer so you should only be connecting two wires to it through an isolation transformer.
 
Aw man, I thought that big transformer at the bottom was the transformer,.. Dang,.. I do not know where I would be without you security. I am still pretty new and I would have rigged up a hot monitor. my k7400 had a sticker to be used with an isolation transformer as well do I need to set one up for that? I bought it that way and maybe why I got confused.

:( How hard would it be to set up a transformer. I am pretty dang new to them, and I looked way back when I bought the cabinet in case I had to replace the original one if it was damaged... but never got past someone showing me a pic of a small white transformer. I would have no idea what else would be needed to set it up.

Another point I was on your website and wondering if you stock the wg74 resistors on neck board. The colors are off a little until it heats up some and then they look better. I had a few things I was going to pick up.

That is the 7k flyback

I have an arctic thunder without working chassis/computer and proper seat missing. I was thinking of parting out and realized that had an iso transformer in it. Hate the idea of parting one out through but not sure what else to do with it.
 

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Aw man, I thought that big transformer at the bottom was the transformer,.. Dang,.. I do not know where I would be without you security. I am still pretty new and I would have rigged up a hot monitor. my k7400 had a sticker to be used with an isolation transformer as well do I need to set one up for that? I bought it that way and maybe why I got confused.

:( How hard would it be to set up a transformer. I am pretty dang new to them, and I looked way back when I bought the cabinet in case I had to replace the original one if it was damaged... but never got past someone showing me a pic of a small white transformer. I would have no idea what else would be needed to set it up.

Another point I was on your website and wondering if you stock the wg74 resistors on neck board. The colors are off a little until it heats up some and then they look better. I had a few things I was going to pick up.

That is the 7k flyback


first always remember you can use an isolation transformer on any monitor whether it requires one or not but if you don't use an isolation transformer on a monitor that requires it VERY BAD things will happen. not every monitor uses a 120vac iso transformer some such as nintendo games with sanyo monitors and sharp will use a 100vac iso transformer.

yes the white knob flyback in your picture is for a K7000 wells gardner chassis.

the neck resistors i am pretty sure are on the site and you should be able to search them on the site by the PCB location but if you have trouble shoot me a PM or email is usually better.
 
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