New guy question

Topgunz81

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Hello I'm a new arcade owner here and have an original midway mortal kombat 2 cabinet. The monitor works fine but will be at its best the first 5 minutes or so that it's on. Then the resolution of the picture seems to diminish. It's still playable but I know something is not right. I've tried to educate myself but need help identifying the monitor/chassis and pointed in the right direction as far as if this is common and can be fixed with some general maintenance for its age or waiting till I pull the monitor to install new side art and do a total overhaul. I don't know where to start.
 

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Well, the caps on that monitor look original so I️ would start there.
 
Hi there and welcome. You have come to the right place.

As others have stated if you have been making the proper adjustments and not getting results it's time to do a capkit and possibly change the flyback. I have seen monitors look better than I could have ever imagined after a capkit, flyback and proper fine tuning adjustments like b+, color, focus, brightness, and convergence.

If I was you I would do a cap kit and replace the flyback.

There is a model number you will most likely find on the chassis frame or on the chassis PCB. With this information you can order the proper parts.

Peter Mortel from www.arcadepartsandrepair.com has been invaluable in helping me out and has all the parts you need. KLOV user: security0001. You could also send him pics of the chassis if you can't identify it.

In addition www.iankellogg.com is another popular place to get capkits because of how his kits are setup and labeled.

If you don't already have, you will need a soldering iron and a cheap solder sucker. You can find these on amazon and check back to this post for confirmation of parts if you have questions.

Lastly if you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself there are plenty of nice and reputable folks here on KLOV that you can pay to do the repairs.

With a little searching you should be able to find most everything you need.
 
Hello I'm a new arcade owner here and have an original midway mortal kombat 2 cabinet. The monitor works fine but will be at its best the first 5 minutes or so that it's on. Then the resolution of the picture seems to diminish. It's still playable but I know something is not right. I've tried to educate myself but need help identifying the monitor/chassis and pointed in the right direction as far as if this is common and can be fixed with some general maintenance for its age or waiting till I pull the monitor to install new side art and do a total overhaul. I don't know where to start.


yes you have a wells gardner K7000 chassis. cap kit and flyback if your getting drifting of the focus is where to start and always do a reflow on the chassis. here is a video to make sure you reflow properly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ijwL3kkw1A&t=3s

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...kits/wells-gardner-k7000-series-cap-kit-105c/

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...x0528-001-wells-gardner-k7000-series-flyback/

i would also do the filter cap since they are also so old.
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/560uf-200v-nichicon-105c-b-filter-capacitor/

your chassis has that small vertical PCB and if i recall its a P723 board and it has an extra BP cap on it which no ones kits come with any more than three BP caps but if you order please add a note on the order and i will include a fourth BP cap for free.
 
Okay so I've done some more research online. Watched some videos and I'm a little hesitant to attempt this myself. If I had someone else do it for me what is the general process? Would I remove the chassis and mail it off? Do I have to pull the monitor out of the cabinet to get the chassis off? What's an estimated price and turn around? I found a place online called castle classic arcade that offers a rebuild for 140 bucks. Anyone herd of them? Is that a good price? Thanks for all the help and advice

http://www.castleclassicarcade.com/products-page/services/wells-gardner-arcade-chassis-repair

Anyone on klov that I could reach out to for this that you recommend?
 
Okay so I've done some more research online. Watched some videos and I'm a little hesitant to attempt this myself. If I had someone else do it for me what is the general process? Would I remove the chassis and mail it off? Do I have to pull the monitor out of the cabinet to get the chassis off? What's an estimated price and turn around? I found a place online called castle classic arcade that offers a rebuild for 140 bucks. Anyone herd of them? Is that a good price? Thanks for all the help and advice

http://www.castleclassicarcade.com/products-page/services/wells-gardner-arcade-chassis-repair

Anyone on klov that I could reach out to for this that you recommend?


i would recommend Paul400 on here if your sending the chassis out. the k7000 is one of the easiest chassis to learn on so if you ever plan on working on stuff yourself this would be the one to try on.
 
Well a guy named Ed pm'd me. I spoke with him on the phone for a bit and between that conversation and the posts from security0001 I've decided to order the parts and do it myself. Thanks a lot for the help everyone. I think I just need to get the tool that pulls the old solder out and rig up a tool to discharge the voltage in the tube.
 
Hey security 0001, I need a new sound sound pot for my mk1 sound board too. Do you sell those? The one I have doesn't stay put. Volume randomly goes up and down on its own.
 
Hey security 0001, I need a new sound sound pot for my mk1 sound board too. Do you sell those? The one I have doesn't stay put. Volume randomly goes up and down on its own.

pm sent to you.
 
Good luck TopGunz on trying this out yourself. I also wasn't sure I could perform cap kits or replace parts on monitors, but the community here is great. I successfully completed my first cap kit on a G07 monitor earlier this year and it looks so much better now.

Please respond back once you complete your repairs and let us know how it all worked out.
 
Hey guys, here's an update. I pulled the pcb off the back of the monitor and it looked like the caps and flyback had been replaced before at some point. I decided to just start with the flyback replacement and see what happened before changing the caps. I put it all back together in my cabinet and fired it up and the game and sound came on but the screen was totally blank as if it wasn't even on. I turned it off and rechecked all my plugs and connections. It all looked correct so I tried again and still nothing. Now I'm going to pull the board completely out and double check the soldering of the flyback. I'm at a loss here. Pictures are of the board when I first pulled it. Before I removed the old flyback to confirm that it had been done before.
 
Pictures. .
 

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This may be a dumb question, but did you turn the brightness all the way up to see if it showed. The last flyback I did on a K7000 was totally black too. Just needed to up the brightness.
 
I'll go check that real quick. Also, what is the screen dial for on the flyback? I haven't messed with it at all.
 
Well I'm at a loss here. Only thing i can think to do is remove the flyback completely and make sure there's not a bent pin or something. I don't think there is though. I'm stumped for tonight. I'll try agin tomorrow.
 
I'll go check that real quick. Also, what is the screen dial for on the flyback? I haven't messed with it at all.


hard to tell but those caps or at least a bunch of them are original and so is the flyback. whenever you install a flyback the screen control pot is turned off so that needs to be turned up. before just randomly pulling and reinstalling the chassis over and over test the B+ and see if you have it and what it measures. the more handling of the chassis the more risk of cracking traces.

check B+ as follows:
Wells gardner K7000 (123vdc or 130vdc depending on which regulator is installed) check with black meter lead on chassis ground and red meter lead on the blue wire of the large white ceramic resistor that is mounted on the side of the large aluminum chassis frame.
 
Okay new update. Adjusted the screen knob on the flyback and nothing happened. Got the volt meter out and set it to 500dcv attached at points circled on picture and showed no reading. Only thing I can think of is maybe I didn't soldier the flyback to the board properly. I'll wait to do that until I get some feedback here first.
 

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When I power it up I here a slight humming or buzz sound when I put my ear by the chassis. So it's getting some juice.
 
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