New Donkey Kong Jr - Few issues

Thanks for the link! Looks very similar! I ordered a kit today from Bob Roberts! At least when I can see what I am doing, I can figure out the rest!

Hey dude remember that bobroberts stocks low quality caps so you may need to re do this in 5-10 years whereas sources like security001 will cost about the same and last a lifetime. I really hate sanyos and don't want to have to redo them but that's my .02$. Also the h-hold should sync the image up but the color tan in the background may be a prom issue but tackle that after the monitor.
 
A few things:

If this game is a keeper, you really should have gotten a cap kit from iankellog, security001, or Buffet here on the forums. They all sell cap kits with high quality caps.

Bob's cap kits will work, but you might be doing the job in another 1-4 years where using one of the ones recommended above, you may never have to change the caps again, or at least not for a very long time.

As for the amp board, beware ! this is unlike other amsp, and it runs on a higher voltage than you'd expect (from the monitor electronics), and will be unpleasant if you introduce yourself to personally to it .....

Also.... and this is a BIG (WARNING) NOTE...... you can reverse two connectors on that amp board. DON"T (let me repeat it.... DON'T!) get them wrong ! You will not like the result, as you'll have released the magic smoke from parts on your DKJR PCB. Please don't ask me how I know this :)

The monitor is most likely a Sanyo 20EZ. I think they are actually pretty nice monitors myself. As your monitor appears to generally be working, at this point only replace caps. Don't replace transistors/etc (shotgun approach), as sometimes the new parts aren't as good as the old (lots of Chinese vendors remarking parts... looks like I'm holding the bag on some "AD561J" I purchased (I haven't tested them all, but I tried a pair on Star Trek... don't ask me what those chips are.... but they aren't AD561J despite what is printed on them....)

And lastly, if you haven't done a cap kit before....

1. take your time
2. do one cap at a time
3. note the polarity of the cap you remove, re-install the same way
4. If you doubt the old one was in right, check any info with the cap kit (if present), check the original manual, and schematics (but do note sometimes the manufacturers got stuff wrong). Sometimes the cap will be in right and the screening on the PCB is wrong too....

You'll save yourself a lot of heartache if you follow those simple steps....

There are some good monitor guru's on the forum.... so if you run into trouble, post what is going on and you should get some good advice.
 
When I cap a monitor I remove all the caps all at once place the new ones all at once and solder them all at once. Do not do that unless you have experience because it's easy to make a mistake and it isn't worth the 2 hours you save. Go one by one slow and steady check your values make sure everything is correct. The guy above is absolutely correct but I wanted to stress this point.
 
A few things:

If this game is a keeper, you really should have gotten a cap kit from iankellog, security001, or Buffet here on the forums. They all sell cap kits with high quality caps.

Bob's cap kits will work, but you might be doing the job in another 1-4 years where using one of the ones recommended above, you may never have to change the caps again, or at least not for a very long time.

As for the amp board, beware ! this is unlike other amsp, and it runs on a higher voltage than you'd expect (from the monitor electronics), and will be unpleasant if you introduce yourself to personally to it .....

Also.... and this is a BIG (WARNING) NOTE...... you can reverse two connectors on that amp board. DON"T (let me repeat it.... DON'T!) get them wrong ! You will not like the result, as you'll have released the magic smoke from parts on your DKJR PCB. Please don't ask me how I know this :)

The monitor is most likely a Sanyo 20EZ. I think they are actually pretty nice monitors myself. As your monitor appears to generally be working, at this point only replace caps. Don't replace transistors/etc (shotgun approach), as sometimes the new parts aren't as good as the old (lots of Chinese vendors remarking parts... looks like I'm holding the bag on some "AD561J" I purchased (I haven't tested them all, but I tried a pair on Star Trek... don't ask me what those chips are.... but they aren't AD561J despite what is printed on them....)

And lastly, if you haven't done a cap kit before....

1. take your time
2. do one cap at a time
3. note the polarity of the cap you remove, re-install the same way
4. If you doubt the old one was in right, check any info with the cap kit (if present), check the original manual, and schematics (but do note sometimes the manufacturers got stuff wrong). Sometimes the cap will be in right and the screening on the PCB is wrong too....

You'll save yourself a lot of heartache if you follow those simple steps....

There are some good monitor guru's on the forum.... so if you run into trouble, post what is going on and you should get some good advice.


I was not aware that Ian had a cap kit for this. I normally order my stuff from him but I didn't see it on his website. I just sent him an email to see if he has one!

And this is definitely a keeper for me! I can't wait to get it working!
 
Okay - Kit is ORDERED through Ian Kellogg!

If you need a flyback don't go through bobroberts he has many problems with his flybacks get from security0001 his are way better you need to know that. He stands by his products.
 
Okay - so odd issue. I got the cap kit from Bob and was playing around with the PCB. I noticed that the pinout for the audio no longer gets any voltage. I read to check C13, and I did - which was dead. I replaced C13 with one of the caps from Bob's kit, but it still doesn't produce any voltage. Occasionally it produces a volt or too, but I believe it's supposed to be around 5v.

Where do I go from C13 to check on the voltage?
 
Okay - so odd issue. I got the cap kit from Bob and was playing around with the PCB. I noticed that the pinout for the audio no longer gets any voltage. I read to check C13, and I did - which was dead. I replaced C13 with one of the caps from Bob's kit, but it still doesn't produce any voltage. Occasionally it produces a volt or too, but I believe it's supposed to be around 5v.

Where do I go from C13 to check on the voltage?
You need to hook up the sound to an amplifier. Have you tried that?
 
A picture will help us please post one.

Here we go!

Here is a picture of the power supply with the wires coming off of it.

0fLYRQ9l.jpg


Next, here is a picture of the P10 which is responsible for the sound. This originally had 0V. I replaced C13 with the yellow cap below it, and now it produces around 1 volt.

5cyunIVl.jpg


Here is a close up of the replaced cap.

6ODRx7Sl.jpg


The wire from P10 run to this board.

eIiy5khl.jpg


Here is a shot of the whole PCB.

GHE3wVRl.jpg
 
The board the p10 cable runs to is the audio amp. I a, 100% sure your h-hold pot is fried causing your monitor to have that mess, I just went through the exact thing with mine going through the flow chart over and over. Get a set of those plastic tv adjustment screwdrivers , the h-hold sits pretty close to the fly back and lots of other things to short out from a metal screwdriver.
 
The board the p10 cable runs to is the audio amp. I a, 100% sure your h-hold pot is fried causing your monitor to have that mess, I just went through the exact thing with mine going through the flow chart over and over. Get a set of those plastic tv adjustment screwdrivers , the h-hold sits pretty close to the fly back and lots of other things to short out from a metal screwdriver.

Would you mind showing me where the H-Hold is? Is that the one on the main monitor PCB?

edit: I have adjusted this prior to now (didn't know it was called that though!). It had a little effect, but not much. It cleared it up to a point, but not to where it was playable. Is it possible that this needs to be replaced?
 
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They are physically located as shown. On my chassis, they are sticking up perpendicular from the board, and you have to come at it from the side (with adjustment tool parallel to the chassis.
 

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They are physically located as shown. On my chassis, they are sticking up perpendicular from the board, and you have to come at it from the side (with adjustment tool parallel to the chassis.

Excellent! Thank you!! Is there any chance that pot can go bad? I have adjusted it before, but it didn't seem to have much effect. I am waiting on my Ian Kellogg cap kit to arrive to do the monitor.
 
Excellent! Thank you!! Is there any chance that pot can go bad? I have adjusted it before, but it didn't seem to have much effect. I am waiting on my Ian Kellogg cap kit to arrive to do the monitor.

ls1chris ^^^^ said he's pretty sure it's fried. Not sure if the cap kits have the pots, probably not. Ian might be able a good source for one, or Arcade Buffett Man or security0001 (both on these forums....hopefully I typed their usernames correctly).
 
mine did the EXACT same thing , H-HOLD was toast, TR901 was toast and the HOT .
order a kit from security or buffet would be your best bet, looks like it needs one anyway, if you ask security can put a "delux" kit together with B+ and H-HOLD pots.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=366148
pic of mine doing that in this thread.
have you tested your B+ yet? report back what you get ( VDC setting) i chased my issues around forever! non adjustable B+ ( super high in the 130VDC) big resistors getting hot like crazy and going HV shutdown) , i only found my HV issue by accident when i was testing the B+ , shut the machine off and still had my DMM connected and on and touch a lead to the chassis by accident and saw my B+ was shorted to ground. HOT was shorted , took out tr901 and i am guessing the h-hold at the same time.
 
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^good point, check B+ first. All kinds of things can go wonky if B+ if significantly off. Should be at 108V DC. Buffett and others have videos of where to test and adjust B+ (Buffett shows a better/easier location for testing than most written information and videos on the subject provide.)
 
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