New B&W Aquisition: Midway 280 Zzzap

I am looking at the schematic and the green is your vertical deflection. Red I am assuming (because the wire isn't labeled on the schematic) is your horizontal deflection. You certainly don't want to switch your vertical and horizontal wires, you might burn out one of the yoke coils.


Looking at this photo, the black wire is shared with the vertical and horizontal yokes. Which confuses me if you swapped the green and black wires at transformer, that you are even getting a picture at all....

That's what Matt told me to do. As you can see, the pic was backwards like it needed to be, so it worked. Now, the upside down part is what needs to be fixed. Red to green, red to black? Oh and right after I posted those pics, I watched the game go from perfect attract mode to a dead white screen. I then tried powering it on and off a few times, same shit. I assume my power supply just died now. Fuck.
 
That's what Matt told me to do. As you can see, the pic was backwards like it needed to be, so it worked. Now, the upside down part is what needs to be fixed. Red to green, red to black? Oh and right after I posted those pics, I watched the game go from perfect attract mode to a dead white screen. I then tried powering it on and off a few times, same shit. I assume my power supply just died now. Fuck.

Well that just sucks.
tumblr_lzu0cj22J11rp8pduo1_500.gif


I had to rebuild the PSU on my SI, and it was a bitch.
 
I figured out how to flip the pic horizontally by switching the black and green wires at the transformer, and now the pic is backward like it's supposed to be, but it's still upside down. Of course I tried to physically flip the tube, but then none of the chassis connectors reach from the mounting shelf to the tube/yoke. I also noticed that pics of other 280 Zzzaps show the monitor in the same position as I first put mine, so I know it's right. I am assuming the red yoke wire moves to a different tab on the yoke? Can anyone tell me which one? Or is there another way? Do I have to flip the yoke 180 degrees to get this to show up right side up in the mirror? Thanks!!

Looky there, I think I already mentioned that.
 
Whatever happened to rotating the yoke?

Kinda waiting til I can get in there and do it properly without fucking something up. Last night was cold and dark, today the kids had no school so I couldn't do it before work in peace. Now the power supply seems to have gone out, so I won't be able to mess with the monitor til I get that rebuilt. I was also not sure if it would be that easy. No one really ever said 'yes that will work' or 'no that won't work'. I am done guessing, I'd like to make sure that rotating the yoke while keeping the wires where I have them is a viable option.
 
I found a post from 2007 where it says he split the ground for the horizantal and vertical and then flipped them. Motorola B&W Monitor reversed screen image HELP PL

I've never tried it so I can't guarantee it but it sounds valid and it's added info at least. The rotating the yoke could work too

There you go, thanks Matt. This is the correct answer:

The mod can be done in less than 10 minutes and only requires that one yoke wire be cut and then soldered to an empty conector. It is prety easy to do.

Here is how I did it for anyone else wanting to try.
Again this is for a Motorola XM501-10 Black and white monitor. I put it in my Space Invaders cabinet.

Yoke fliping (& mirroring) is basicaly just reversing the 2 wires for either the horizontal or vertical windings on a yoke. See bob roberts page on it here http://www.arcaderestoration.com/ind...ATA=147&CBT=24
Form his page you can see that a normal color CTR yoke has 4 wires. For arguments sake we will say that those wires are a Positve(+) and a Negitive(-) for the vertical winding and a Positive and a Negitine for the horizontal winding. Thats 4 wires.
The Motorola XM501 has only 3 wires going to the yoke. A black wire for both Negitaves, a red wire for horizontal(+) and a green wire for vertical(+).
First thing we do is to split the black ground wire coming from the chassis into 2 wires. Now we have a 4 wire harness just like the color monitors.

Looking at the yoke you can see where the wires originaly conected by the color dots. there are 4 color dots 3 of wich were used. At the bottom right there is a black dot, bottom left is green, top left is red, and top right is yellow (not used).
The black dot terminal has 3 wires soldered to it. these 3 wires are the grounds for the Horizontal AND vertical windings. 2 of them are for the horizontal and one is for the vertical. They must be seperated so that we have 2 seperate circuits.
If you look at these 3 ground wires closely you will notice that 2 of them go between the two plastic yoke halves and disapear, one at the top (12:00 position) and one at the bottom (6:00 position) of the yoke. These are the 2 horizontal grounds.
The third wire goes directly to the windings in plain view, near the yellow dot and at about the 1:00 position. This is the vertical ground. You need to cut this wire as close to the black dot as possible. You now have 2 seperate circuits.
This can be virified by using your DMM on Ohms setting. Put the black probe tip on the vertical wire end you just cut and the other on the green dot. This is the vertical circuit and should measure 30 OHMs. Now place your black probe tip on the black dot and the red probe tip on the red dot and you should have about 2 OHMs. This is the horizontal circuit.
Now take the wire you cut and solder it to the yellow dot terminal that had nothing conected to it and youre done.

You now have a 4 wire harness and 4 spots on the yoke to hook them to.
If you conect one ground wire to the yellow
dot, one ground wire to the black dot, the red wire to the red dot, & the green wire to the green dot the monitor will work just like it did before modification.
To mirror the image reverse the 2 wires going to the green and yellow dot.
To flip the image reverse the wires between the red and black dots.
Hope this helps others that might be having the same problem I did. You can email me at [email protected] with questions. I also have Hi res pics of the mod if that will help you.

Like I said, 3 colored wires, 4 colored tabs. That's what was so confusing. Now it makes sense.
 
Ive scanned the red stickers for you,
they are stuck on the tube, oil onthe left, gas on the right.
Mine where a little bit off, so I tried to remove them, resulting in this mess...

Measurements are 55mm by 33mm.
The right colour should be the darker red you see in the scans.

let me know when you clean up the images, I could use some new ones myself :)


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/trol666/gas_zpsec6ce9be.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/trol666/oil_zps2f8a0027.jpg

I had to try this on my color laser printer, not perfect, just a quickie, I think it might actually work better on an inkjet. Maybe a solvent inkjet would work the best.

uploadfromtaptalk1394238038107.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1394238049778.jpg
 
The Motorola XM501 has only 3 wires going to the yoke. A black wire for both Negitaves, a red wire for horizontal(+) and a green wire for vertical(+).
First thing we do is to split the black ground wire coming from the chassis into 2 wires. Now we have a 4 wire harness just like the color monitors.

So my theory was right that i posted earlier.

I think that if you want to change the "one" cable to the yoke, that you must switch that with the ground wire for that coil

normally you switch both "sets" of cables, and i think that the set with one cable consists actually of this one wire and a ground wire

i mean it does not make sence if there are only 3 wires in total.

please correct me if i am wrong, i am just speculating, and am not sure if my theory is correct.
 
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