New Asshat Arcade Addition

So...anyone recommend Cliffy hole protectors and/or ramp protector?

Yes, I have them on mine. Ramp and hole. They are pricey but they work and look great.

BTW - great score! I LOVE my Whirlwind. Really fun and challenging game. It's actually pretty damn deep. Took me a few weeks to learn all the rules. I would never sell mine. Your playfield looks great.
 
Alright... she's home... a could things I notice.

(A) There are a couple diagonals missing from the scoring segments. Is there a rebuild kit for this? $199.00 for a pinscore set is sort of steep.

(B) The three discs spin erratically... they'll spin a 1/2 spin, then stop for a half second then spin another 1/2 spin then stop for a quarter second, etc... as if it was getting bound up (I still have yet to pop the playfield, so maybe that IS what's happening). From playing the game on the Wi, I am guessing they (the discs) should spin constantly when there is a storm coming, right? Does that sound like a motor issue? Suggestions?

Finally... since I got it home and I know it's mine for sure... I picked this up for $700.00 out the door.

Lift the playfield and clean the gears on the spinners. They are adjusted easily.

$700 is a great price. A little less than I paid for mine.

When buying parts, go here first:

http://pbresource.com/

To me, Steve is kind of the Bob Roberts of pinball. Treat him the same way, e-mails, etc. His prices and service are top notch.

Also a fan of MAD:

http://mad-amusements.com/

And, Bay Area:

http://www.bayareaamusements.com/

Before you change the display, change the (2) resistors on the power supply:

"Replace the 39k ohm Power Supply Resistors.
The major villain in the system 11 power supply are resistors R1 and R4. These are both 39k ohm, 1 watt resistors. Very often either or both of these resistors will go out of spec, or even completely open. This will prevent the +100 and/or -100 volts from getting to the score displays. These two resistors are mounted on the system 11 power supply board. (on newer WPC games with alphanumeric displays, these are resistors R48 and R49 on the alphanumeric display board). As a general rule, I always change these resistors (trust me, they've had a tough life, and need to be replaced, even if they test as "good")."

"Note the score display is barely working. At first, you may think it's the
display glass itself. This is infact a common problem, where the displays
"outgas" and don't show as brightly, and eventually completely die. But
before you change the expensive score display glass, change the 39k ohm
resistors on the power supply with new 1 or 2 watt "flameproof" resistors"

READ THIS
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys11/index3.htm#display


Bay Area has the display for $115.00 if you order $150 worth of parts:

http://www.bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=STIM-DI-D16
 
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Some great advice there :) I've found that overall pinballlife has the best prices by far though and great service. Not knocking the other guys as I've dealt with them as well. But pinballlife prices normally are MUCH better. If he has what you need...just a thought :)
 
Some great advice there :) I've found that overall pinballlife has the best prices by far though and great service. Not knocking the other guys as I've dealt with them as well. But pinballlife prices normally are MUCH better. If he has what you need...just a thought :)

I always go to Terry (pinball life) first. He is awesome. Unless I need gottlieb specific stuff. Then Steve (pinball resource) is my first stop.

I agree with blkdog about the displays. My gut feeling is that you can just fix what's there.
 
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This is a cheap kluge, but you can change some diodes to brighten up the display and probably get your diagonal segments back. It'll probably last a good long while (maybe a few years) until the display completely outgasses. You can also buy the display glass and do a lot of soldering to replace it for about 50-75 bucks.

- L


Alright... she's home... a could things I notice.

(A) There are a couple diagonals missing from the scoring segments. Is there a rebuild kit for this? $199.00 for a pinscore set is sort of steep.

(B) The three discs spin erratically... they'll spin a 1/2 spin, then stop for a half second then spin another 1/2 spin then stop for a quarter second, etc... as if it was getting bound up (I still have yet to pop the playfield, so maybe that IS what's happening). From playing the game on the Wi, I am guessing they (the discs) should spin constantly when there is a storm coming, right? Does that sound like a motor issue? Suggestions?

Finally... since I got it home and I know it's mine for sure... I picked this up for $700.00 out the door.
 
Had a little free time to take some more photos... this is pre-shop... all I've done is remove the batteries and wipe down the glass. I need to neutralize a little battery damage (sure glad I got to it when I did!)... that'll get done tonight I hope.

WW_BATTERYDAMAGE.jpg


WW_JUSTHOME4.jpg

WW_JUSTHOME3.jpg

WW_JUSTHOME2.jpg


WW_JUSTHOME5.jpg
 
Good timing on the batteries :)

I would remove that battery holder and install a remote battery holder away from the board.

Yep, I would too. I have a few extra if you want one, Frizz. Easy to install, and way more peace of mind offered.
 
Good timing on the batteries :)

I would remove that battery holder and install a remote battery holder away from the board.


I plan to... I already have a remote battery holder, but it is designed for games that recharge as it has a diode (I think it is) that blocks the re-charge current so you can use regular batteries... am I going to have to pull that diode or can I just leave it be?
 
I plan to... I already have a remote battery holder, but it is designed for games that recharge as it has a diode (I think it is) that blocks the re-charge current so you can use regular batteries... am I going to have to pull that diode or can I just leave it be?

It will work either way. In your case there is already a diode on the board.

I would probably remove the diode personally. You'll get an extra .5V :)
 
why not just remember to change them out once a year? I know do the remote holder gives peace of mind protects boards, but they wont leak if there changed once a year. Also isn't there something you can solder on that you dont need batteries anymore? I can't recall what the name is, anyone?
 
why not just remember to change them out once a year? I know do the remote holder gives peace of mind protects boards, but they wont leak if there changed once a year. Also isn't there something you can solder on that you dont need batteries anymore? I can't recall what the name is, anyone?

Memory capacitors are an option. NVRAM adapters are another option that eliminate the need for batteries all together.

Changing the batteries once per year is all well and good if your battery holder is in good condition. Friz needs to replace his battery holder anyway so why not remote mount them? That way you know the board is safe from battery corrosion. Leaving the batteries on the board is not a good idea regardless of how frequently you change them. Why risk it? Not to mention that the remote battery pack is probably cheaper than the original style battery holder anyway. I know it would be for me... I buy them in bulk.
 
I wonder why manufacturers put the battery holder right on the boards for, I dont get that one. What would Friz need to use to clean the corrosion off? Isop.alcohol, baking soda? Does the board need to come out to solder in the remote holder?
 
I used vinegar & alcohol... I then tested the current holder with no success... so, for the time being until I can pull the boards out and solder in the leads, I crimped on some aligator clips and clipped red on the bottom left lead and clipped black on the top right, I then mounted the battery pack to the side of the backbox via some Velcro.
 
I used vinegar & alcohol... I then tested the current holder with no success... so, for the time being until I can pull the boards out and solder in the leads, I crimped on some aligator clips and clipped red on the bottom left lead and clipped black on the top right, I then mounted the battery pack to the side of the backbox via some Velcro.

So you do have to pull boards? Well Frizz could you possibly show a picture(s) Man pictures sure do help alot.
 
Where can I obtain a remote battery holder from? My Pinbot suffers this same fate!

Good timing on the batteries :)

I would remove that battery holder and install a remote battery holder away from the board.
 
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