New Addition... Defender

Azurden

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Donor 4 years: 2013-2016
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Ok, so been wanting a Defender for some time and picked one up Sunday. I have owned a Robotron and StarGate before, so I am aware of some of the issues with Williams games such as the RAM. I have a left over RAM kit from Bob to swap out the normal issues with the RAMs. So here are my questions..


1: Was looking at the PS as the game will reboot at times. I did find that the voltage is a tad low at 4.8v. Is there a way on this PS to adjust voltage? Just rebuild?

2: I also read that the reboot can be cause by bad RAMs? I did the RAM check and they passed the test, but at one point when starting up the game a RAM error came up, but then the game started. Almost seems like a voltage issue to me.

3: Up/Down control has tons of slop... I know my StarGate was kinda sloppy as well, but not nearly as bad as Defender. Looked at it and just has the stick on the axis and two leaf switches? Is there supposed to be a rubber grommet or springs in there to add some tension?

Ideas?
 
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https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...ild-kits/power-supply-rebuild-cap-kit/page/2/

i have the cap kit with the axial 18000uf cap and also a deluxe rebuild kit that includes everything except the caps which will make that power supply rock solid. all my caps fit the PCB perfectly unlike other kits out there.

BTW: there is no adjustment pot on either of the williams power supplies but in my deluxe kit i include the mod to add a +5 pot to the power supply if you want to do it.
 
Joystick: I think Defender was a little sloppy naturally, but maybe not.

Power supply board: As for Defender, I know it is really picky about that reset circuit and its voltage (which is also why you can't use a switching power supply on this game IIRC), so perhaps that is something to do with it. I would definitely just do a rebuild to start, even if you can find a pot on the board to squeeze more life out of it. (I don't think they have one anyhow)
 
Joystick: I think Defender was a little sloppy naturally, but maybe not.

Power supply board: As for Defender, I know it is really picky about that reset circuit and its voltage (which is also why you can't use a switching power supply on this game IIRC), so perhaps that is something to do with it. I would definitely just do a rebuild to start, even if you can find a pot on the board to squeeze more life out of it. (I don't think they have one anyhow)

This on is MAJOR all over the place. The game is hard enough without trying to figure if it will go up or down due to the slop. Adjusted the leaf switchs. Just seems like it needs some tension on it.
 
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...ild-kits/power-supply-rebuild-cap-kit/page/2/

i have the cap kit with the axial 18000uf cap and also a deluxe rebuild kit that includes everything except the caps which will make that power supply rock solid. all my caps fit the PCB perfectly unlike other kits out there.

BTW: there is no adjustment pot on either of the williams power supplies but in my deluxe kit i include the mod to add a +5 pot to the power supply if you want to do it.

Your deluxe kits does not come with the caps as well? Any discounts for KLOVers?
 
Your deluxe kits does not come with the caps as well? Any discounts for KLOVers?

i will probably be having a sale for christmas but unfortunately not until then. if you compare other kits the price is within a couple bucks but mine has 100% 105c caps even the 18,000uf axial and i put more parts and higher rated and i am the only one that includes the +5 pot mod so far. if you look around on some of the threads this kit i build is awesome but definitely not cheap and i also include maps i created in photoshop so its very thorough. yes the way they are now is you need both cap kit and rebuild kit.
 
i will probably be having a sale for christmas but unfortunately not until then. if you compare other kits the price is within a couple bucks but mine has 100% 105c caps even the 18,000uf axial and i put more parts and higher rated and i am the only one that includes the +5 pot mod so far. if you look around on some of the threads this kit i build is awesome but definitely not cheap and i also include maps i created in photoshop so its very thorough. yes the way they are now is you need both cap kit and rebuild kit.

Got it... I see there are two different numbers for the caps and kit. What is the difference?
 
This on is MAJOR all over the place. The game is hard enough without trying to figure if it will go up or down due to the slop. Adjusted the leaf switchs. Just seems like it needs some tension on it.

the shafts of the stick get worn, and the housing it mates with gets worn as well. i don't have a picture of the housing, but the shaft is supposed to fit into a round hole. they get worn into an elongated pill shape over time. the picture of the shaft shows a groove worn into the shaft that shouldn't be there. bad combo that leads to really sloppy performance. i rebuilt mine with an NOS base and NOS stick and the difference is night and day.
 

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the shafts of the stick get worn, and the housing it mates with gets worn as well. i don't have a picture of the housing, but the shaft is supposed to fit into a round hole. they get worn into an elongated pill shape over time. the picture of the shaft shows a groove worn into the shaft that shouldn't be there. bad combo that leads to really sloppy performance. i rebuilt mine with an NOS base and NOS stick and the difference is night and day.

Thanks... Where did you find the NOS?
 
jimmer sells a bushing kit which all the top player's have switched over to.
one and done repair.
 
Got it... I see there are two different numbers for the caps and kit. What is the difference?

the easiest way to tell is if the heat sinks are mounted to the PCB then its the D8359 and if the heat sink is located separate from the pcb then its the D8784.
 
the easiest way to tell is if the heat sinks are mounted to the PCB then its the D8359 and if the heat sink is located separate from the pcb then its the D8784.

Ok, I placed the order hopefully it is the right one. My head sync is on the board.
 
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